First Build-help and tips
- Thread starter 2dsguy
- Start date
I made the cheekbone out of thin cardboard-that from the kellogs package
than I wanted to make paper machee from the inside, but I could't hold the shape of the helmet so it broke down.for the next try I want to use a kind of thin but flexible and strong cardboard and put a layer of spackle outside (and maybe fiberglass inside)
do you have tips for me?
I'd be very thankful
hamsandwich72
Hunter
You can put a larger piece of cardboard on the inside of the cheek which will give more surface area for the cheek and mandibles to attach to. Also, I would suggest finishing the helmet before reinforcing it. It will allow the pieces to flex and work together to get the correct shape. Once finished, I used a combination of bondo and resin (AKA rondo) to cover the inside of the helmet and smooth out the sharp angles on the inside. Finally a layer of fiberglass and resin for a strong structure.
TheZeroEffect
Active Hunter
Better, who's templates are you using?
ToEleven
Active Hunter
It looks like you've found yourself a template, but if not then go with wizardofflight's or rafalfett template from the scratch build thread sticky.
I would also strongly recommend you study how Antman did his in this thread .
Also if you're going for screen helmet accuracy use rafalfett's v2 templates...otherwise I think wizardofflight's are a tad bit easier to understand, but off on some of the dimensions. I discovered this after I was far too into my scratch build to go back.... I'm still happy with the end result.
For construction you really want .0625" to 2mm (.08") thick sold cardboard like frame matting or book binding material. I reinforced my interior with fiberglass matte and resin. The dome and cheeks were smoothed out and shaped with bondo.
It took me 5 months to get my helmet looking like I wanted it to so don;t give up!
I would also strongly recommend you study how Antman did his in this thread .
Also if you're going for screen helmet accuracy use rafalfett's v2 templates...otherwise I think wizardofflight's are a tad bit easier to understand, but off on some of the dimensions. I discovered this after I was far too into my scratch build to go back.... I'm still happy with the end result.
For construction you really want .0625" to 2mm (.08") thick sold cardboard like frame matting or book binding material. I reinforced my interior with fiberglass matte and resin. The dome and cheeks were smoothed out and shaped with bondo.
It took me 5 months to get my helmet looking like I wanted it to so don;t give up!
Thank you for your answers!
I used wizardofflight's templates which I found quite good.
And thanks for your tip ToEleven That really helped me
I'll cut out the cheeks and show you my results soon
I used wizardofflight's templates which I found quite good.
And thanks for your tip ToEleven
That really helped meI'll cut out the cheeks and show you my results soon
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ToEleven
Active Hunter
It looks like you're trying to bear down too hard with the razor blade and cut it through in the 1st pass. Take your time...use many cuts over the same line going more slowly and bearing down with less pressure.
The best way I've found to clean up a rough cut edge is to glue a piece of sand paper to a small piece of wood to make a sanding block. Then just sand the edge until it flattens out. A file may work as well. The point is you can't just use your fingers or the sandpaper will just follow the contour of the wavy cut line.
The best way I've found to clean up a rough cut edge is to glue a piece of sand paper to a small piece of wood to make a sanding block. Then just sand the edge until it flattens out. A file may work as well. The point is you can't just use your fingers or the sandpaper will just follow the contour of the wavy cut line.
ToEleven
Active Hunter
Yes I will try that. Thank you
Should I sand it now or after I put the spackle on?:confused
The sanding block tip was in response to your question about the uneven cut lines and what I've done in the past to deal with those issues. You definitely don't want to sand your dome, cheeks, etc until you've applied bondo.
As far as the gaps and imperfections are concerned, you may need to spread bondo over the areas and resand. It takes a LOT of sanding and filling to get it looking good...especially if you're a newbie like myself. :$
TheZeroEffect
Active Hunter
As with what ToEleven said, don't try and cut with one pass, multiple ( careful) passes is best and helps stop the ripping, also a sharp blade is a must. They do get blunt fast so either sharpen with a knife sharpening stone/Steele or snap of a new blade if your using that type. I tend to resharpen my blade as you can easily go through a lot in one build. Another thing that can be useful is a set of French curves (ruler set) in metal if possibly as you can inadvertently cut into plastic ones, this just helps with cutting those rounded edges, but if freehand is working that's fine too.
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