Discussion on Everything you wanted to know about Visors... within the Boba Fett Helmet forum, part of the Star Wars Original Trilogy Bounty Hunters category; Originally posted by Skaught77: I'm replacing the cheapo fake visor
Originally posted by Skaught77:
I'm replacing the cheapo fake visor with a real visor, and I'm having trouble keeping the center tall piece from staying perfectly smooth when I curve it (heating it in an oven). Should the center part have a little curve in it too, or should it remain straight/flat. Looking up at the photo in the header, the reflection suggests that it should curve and follow the shape of the overall helmet.
Thoughts?
Scott
Originally posted by Braks Buddy:
Visor should curve in the middle but it should be a slight, smooth, rolling curve.
Restless soul, enjoy your youth - Eddie Vedder
Originally posted by WebChief:
The visor definitely curves in the center. I too heated mine in the oven. Once it became soft, I took it out and actually placed it into the helmet and formed it to the curve of the helmet. It worked well.
"What we do in life...echoes in eternity!"
Originally posted by Skaught77:
That's what I did, too. Worked well. There is a little distortion in the center though. You can't see it just looking at the plastic, but a light reflection will be a bit wavy.
Scott
Originally posted by WebChief:
Yeah, it took me a couple of attempts but I'm happy with it's final outcome. It's not a huge curve, but it's decent. That was the cool thing about the acryllic. I just threw it back into the oven a couple of times until I was happy with the result.
"What we do in life...echoes in eternity!"
Originally posted by Skaught77:
I went to a plastics seller (in an industrial part of town) and they gave me - for free - a 1'x2' piece of tinted plastic about 1/8" thick. I cut my shape from it and heated it on some foil (on a baking sheet) in the over until it would droop.
Scott
Originally posted by Hammerhead:
What temperature did you set your oven to?
I was trying to boil my 1/8" thick piece of smoked acrylic to get it pliable enough to be able to form it to the helmet shape, but it didn't work very well.
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Originally posted by Skaught77:
I forgot...400? Give it some time (but WATCH it!)
Originally posted by WebChief:
I can't remember how hot I set it either. Best to start low and work your way up. Try around 350 or so and if that's not hot enough, push 400. Just WATCH it!
I got mine as a flat sheet of acryllic from a plastics supplier outside of Boston. Just check in the phone book under plastics.
"What we do in life...echoes in eternity!"
Originally posted by Braks Buddy:
It has been said before but it was recently confirmed that the real visor was a welding visor... Those are already curved aomewhat. You might want to look into that...
Restless soul, enjoy your youth - Eddie Vedder
Originally posted by Tyr Rykik:
If the melting point is anything like sintra it is between 350 and 375, so I wouldn't try 400 right off the bat.
Originally posted by Skaught77:
I had ZERO problems heating mine in the over. Just give it another try. I put it on aluminum foil on a baking sheet.
Scott
Originally posted by imprissonedfett:
Hey guys I have the black limo tint and the faceshield but am wondering about applying the tint. Do I apply the tint to the outside or inside or does it make a difference? The sticky side happens to be the very dark side which would go in from the back. The other side is pretty dark but looks more mirror like. I was wondering if a few of you with Fett helmets could help with your 2 cents in this matter. Thanks for the help.
Originally posted by boogeymanmasks:
Well it depends on where your visor is going to be mounted. Some people cut out the entire black plastic area and mount the T visor from the inside of the mask. I personally cut out the black plastic just enough to allow the visor to have a ridge for the edges to rest on and mounted mine on the exterior of the helmet. If you need pics let me know and I will email you some. With all of that said, whichever side you are mounting yours, you do not want the window tint being the side your adhesive goes against keeping the visor in place. It could pull your tint away from the visor, where if you adhered it directly to the visor you would not have this problem. Again, if I am not being clear, let me know your email address and I will shoot you some pics. I would also get standard window tint, no mirroring.
Hope this helps,
boogeyman
Originally posted by WebChief:
I cut out all the black plastic on mine and added the black tinting to the inside of the visor. If you put it on the outside, you could scratch it or worse even, tear it.
"What we do in life...echoes in eternity!"
Great job Nat, absolutly cool! What are you using for the visor? I have a Don Post 96 that I am about to cut up so I can replace the visor, any hints or tips?
Thanks.
Try Saftey Lab Inc. They make a really nice green tinted visor.
I use a shade 4 welding visor. Thr first thing you should do is make a template of the opening & tape it to the visor.drvfett wrote:Great job Nat, absolutly cool! What are you using for the visor? I have a Don Post 96 that I am about to cut up so I can replace the visor, any hints or tips?
Thanks.
Then use a sharp hobbyknife & metal ruler & score the visor a few times. Then you just bend the visor & itll snap along the scored lines, giving you a nice neat finish.
Nathan
I cut mine with tin snips. Tin snips are designed to cut either one direction or the other, so it was really helpful in making the curves. We made a template out of thin cardboard, then traced it onto the welding mask, then cut it out. Since my visor is rear-mounted, the small "tooth" marks from the snips didn't matter. However, those marks across the bottom were easily filed out. If you are looking for a front-mounted visor though, I don't recommend this method.
Thats about it, just want to know what kind of glue works best for a rear mounted visor?
Thanks
I know a LOT of people use hot glue but I plan to screw mine in like the real thing. That way if I ever scratch or crack the visor I can easily replace it!
Well, I haven't actually done this part...yet. But as far as adhesive goes, I've heard hot melt caulk, ABS Cement or 2-part epoxies all work well.
Like Brak's said though, when the time comes, I plan on screwing my visor in...it's really the only way to go if you ever need to easily replace your visor.
I have read that you can run the screw all the way through the front of the helmet, trim it off, sand it down and use bondo or something to cover the screw post and hole. But I don't think I'll go this route.
What I might try is to affix a raised piece of plastic, fiberglass, etc. to the areas inside the helmet where I plan to attach the visor screws. This will create nice thick solid points to attach to.
Jaster, I wish I could recommend something at this point. But like I said, I've not really done this part yet (heck, I'm still trying to work on a helmet I'm satisfied with).Jaster wrote:What type of bolt system is used?
I suppose one could try wood screws or anything else with a pointy tip and a toothy thread. Another option might be to use screws with nuts. Get a screw that's really short, glue the nut to the inside of the helmet using the STRONGEST adhesive you can find and attach to that.
I had a Don Post 97 helmet that I put a new visor in. I used Hot glue because I wanted to be able replace the visor if it got all scratched up.
I was a little concerned that the glue would not bond well to the vinyl helmet. I just roughed up the inside surface of the helmet where the glue would go. It bonded very well. Actually I did end up taking out the visor and it didn't just pop off like I thought it would. I had to pull pretty hard to get the visor off.
I know that hot glue can get soft when it gets hot, but if it gets that hot in your helmet you got worse problems than your visor coming loose.
Anyway, just my .02 cents.
Later,
Chris
If you have no plans on removing it, then why not.
Again the caveat to using adhesives like hot glue, ect..., is that if you choose to remove the visor somtime down the road, you'll be in for a whale of a hassle.
I hot glued with the visor with the opaque glue. The clear glue does not work as well for some reason. I DID crack a visor, but the hot glue pulls right out if you work at it with a butter knife. It's especially easy to pull out when your visor is cracked. I would NOT put the visor on in any way that made it permanant. It really is too easy to crack it.
Hey Chuck!!!! Cris here. I always use high temp Hotglue straight from a gluegun. I make sure to cut the visor to fit snugly into place, then hold the bottom down with painters tape (make sure to seal your paintjob just in case - you don't want to flake off any paint when you remove the tape). Then I run a bead of hot glue all across the inside edges and a big fat lump of glue at the very ends of the T. It's VERY strong, easy to re-enforce if any part comes loose, and very easy to completly replace your visor if you ever need to (just use an exacto knife to peel up the dried glue).
Here's the only photo I have of the inside of one of my fiberglass helmets.
goldenarmor.com
Hey guys, I recieved my replacement visor for my Fett helmet in the mail today. I need to know the process for installing it. For reference, here's the visor I am using:
Thanks!
I used the same visor for mine. First you need to cut out your old one if you haven't already. Next make a pattern from your cut out visor. Test fit it on your helmet making sure you have enough overlap surface to glue it in. Once you have a good pattern go ahead and cut you your shield.A friend recommended tin snips and they worked great for me.Now to glue it in look up my post "Best glue for Visor" and read Chaucer44's instructions. Take your time and enjoy.
I might add that I was thinking of screwing it in. You see, I cut the fake visor out of my helmet a long time ago, and the cheeks have sort of flared out from their natural position. I was thinking if I screwed it in, it would conform to the shape better.
Any advice on that?
I have no idea how you would go about setting it up for being screwed in, but that is how the film helmet has the visor installed. I think it is the best way to go, as you can easily replace your visor. Wish I could of more help, but I am not exactly the handiest person.
Hope someone with some craft skills chimes in on that.
What I plan on doing when cutting out the visor is to leave some extra along the edges. Cut out the "T" but leave some squares along the edge and the top. You can then use these squares to put the screws through. When using a visor such as that one, you might want to try heating it up and placing it in the helmet so it has that exact shape. If you leave the squares around the edges heating it would help them comform to the helmet's shape. It should fit perfectly.
One of my long standing beefs with many fan made helmets is that the visor never seems ground out shallow enough. Well now I'm finding out why! There ain't a whole lot of room to wrangle a dremel around in there without chewing through something you don't want to! Anyone know any special bits or attachments to defeat this? Maybe those flex shafts or 90 degree heads or something?
Thanks!
-Sarge
dremel cut as much as you can. Then punch out the piece (literally, punch it out), and file down the roughed out edge. A little manual labor never hurt anyone
jose
When i got my Dremel a Flex Shaft thing came with it... so i'd say thats a great idea, that thing is awesome.
Definitely, the flex shaft is the way to go. It is easier to hold & manipulate, and you can get into tighter areas. I had no problem cutting the excess fiberglass in the visor area. Only get close to your markings though & finish off with a file. It is too easy to take off too much material & make a mistake with the dremel (sounds like you found this out the hard way!).
I use a Dremel Fiberglass cutoff wheel and cut the large straight lines first, then take a hammer and knock out the visor area. Then I use a Dremel Drum sander on the inside to even things up. A needle file does the rest and you have nice machined looking lines.
Paul
Rockin'! Thanks everyone! I think I may also bandsaw out a custom sized sanding block out of some 1" rubber for the inside too!
-Sarge
I was just looking through some odds and ends i found and saw a tube of liquid nails. has anyone tried this? does it work well or just the hot melt caulk?
No clue, give it a test shot I would say. I use a product called Liquid Cement by Ambroid. Seems to hold for me.
Bear
TR776 and myself have used something called 'GOOP', available I think at home depot etc... for our lenses. It works wonderfully.
Phil
will said "goop" work on fiberglass?
epoxy putty might work too.
interesting. perhaps i shall investigate.
edit(after investigation and a purchase):
the packaging says it should work with fiberglass. rejoice!
Hot Melt Caulk, as recommended by jedi-academy.com Works great on my 95DP, not sure about the fiberglass ones though.
If anyone finds a way to attach to the fiberglass please LMK
What about using silicone adhesive? Not the bathroom tub kind, but the good industrial stuff that is used in marine applications? I know that boat builders use this stuff for everything & it comes in black. I think it is made by Lepage's.
Try a product called "J B Weld" it's sold at all Home Depots and other hardware stores here in Texas. This stuff is like epoxy to a factor of 10. It's seriously like liquid metal. It'll hold a car to the space shuttle.
Try it out.
-Bardo
Ok is there like some secret to holding the t-visor in place while you try the glue the sucker? If there is I would like to know what it is.
I would just tack it in place in a couple of spots. When the glue dries you can then glue the rest of it.
so far my luck in getting this to stay in place till i do that has been terriable. I have had root canals that were were less of a pain than this t-visor !!!
You might want to ask this under the Helmet heading and not Armor. Or ask a mod to have this thread be moved there.
I glued one side down first, then the other side after the first side was fixed in place. I wrestled with it at first, but finally figured that way was easiest. After I cracked the first one and had to pull it out and put in a new one, the second one was really easy to put in that way.
Hey Bear,
Grab someone and make them help hold it while you glue it. once glued, have them continue to hold it or take over holding while it sets.
That's my thoughts,
Phil
Use a small amount of CA glue with accelerator to tack it in place then go over the seams with your hot glue or whatever you plan on using. Be careful with the CA and accelerator otherwise you get a white haze from the CA fumes. If you start to see the haze take some rubbing alcohol and quickly wipe the area down. Or if you see haze switch from drugs to alcohol
i have looked everywhere. does anyone have a visor template that will fit a DP 95?
thanks in advance.
Why don't you just lay a piece of paper over the helmet, tape it down and trace it, giving yourself about 1/4" trimming allowance?
-Sarge
Another way *cheap* is to go and get a clear overhead sheet... you know those ones you use to see back in school that you could write on and project onto a screen.. anyway.... I got a sheet of that... and cut out my T-Visor shape... to fit into my Don Post helment... I left a bit of edge around the helmet where the old dumb t-visor was so that I could glue the new one that I was making it. Anyway.. I then went to Wally mart.. and picked up some cheap car tint.. limo one.. which is the darkest.. then I glued that to the new cut out of the visor and let it dry.. Then when all done.. just put it in place.. .Worked out great.. and cheap.. and looks mint.... Also with the rest of the tint left over.. you have more to play with, just in case you mess up. But anyway.. that is a good cheap and easy way of doing it. It took me some time to prefect it at first.. as I attempted to first glue the overhead sheet to the helmet.. then put the tint on.. but all I kept getting was wrinkles.. and that look really bad.. so first attach the tint to the clear over head first.. if you or any other person does it this way.. hope that will help.
I am actually working on my scout helmet, but a lot of people have been curious about how to go about replacing the lens with dark plexiglass. You can NOT use Lexan with this method.
Making a Fett visor is very similar to these Scout Visor pictures, but you need to curve the middle part over a wine bottle or something first to be sure it curves nice and straight in the middle. Or in the case of Jango, don't do that.
This is a rear-mounting lens.
(Scout Helmet)
I cut out the inner rim of the lens area with a craft knife. I traced around the lens that I cut out from the scout helmet(leaving about 1/4" extra room around the edge). I cut it out from a flat piece of smoke colored plexiglass (scraps are as cheap as $1.50). (Fett people-just cut out the visor and trace that)
I laid the cut out flat plexiglass lens piece onto a Lexan face shield. (Side note: I have NEVER seen a tinted face shield despite looking pretty hard).
Wave the heat gun over the plastic, working from the center out, until it bends by itself to the same shape as the visor. If you wish the curve the lens more than the Lexan visor normally curves, simply tape the two sides closer along the back. (Fett people should have pre-bent the just the very middle over a large glass bottle)
Here's a pic:
Notice I did this on a heat resistant surface...
A pic of the face shield off and the newly curved lens laying inside of it.
If you work quickly and lick your fingers so they don't get burned, you can conform the lens a bit more to your helmet.
Use hot glue all around the top and sides of the visor. The opaque kind works best for me. If there are any parts of the visor that are just slightly not close enough to the lens, the heat of the hot glue will soften the helmet right there and you can push it closer to the lens from the front. With Fett, I found it very important to watch the front and keep it pressed down so that glue did not seep under and cause the helmet to lift away from the visor. I glued one side at a time with the Fett helmet.
If you get glue anywhere you don't want it, use Goo-off to remove it, then windex to remove the Goo-off residue.
The finished helmet:
Hope that is helpful to some people.
great tips lisafett!
WOW! great tip! (and sweet helmet!)
I'm just going to bump this since I keep seeing it come up.
Create an image in Photoshop with the measurements from a A4 paper, add a layer on top and fill it in a very deep green/brown and adjust the opacity on the layer a bit so that it becomes a little transparent. Print it out on a transparency film. Cutting will not be any big problem, just use a paper-knife. The film is a little thin, but i think it will work just fine.
Not the greatest idea, but it's a quick and very cheap solution. Only takes 5 minutes and it looks great.
Good luck!
Edit:I've printed out 2 now. Think it will work fine! The first one was very dark, but the second one came out much better i adjusted the transparency on the layer in PS(about 68%). The vision becomes a little blurry, but it's no bigger problem to see through. To protct the ink a little better i think a thin transparent adhesive film on top will do the job. Just remember to do it before you glue the visor in place.
Easier.. and maybe look better.. is to do what I did.. get a overhead clear sheet... trace out the t-visor template onto it.. then lay out some limo black tint over it... glue them together... then set them onto the helmet... Looks awesome.. will post some pics of mine soon.... but anyway will work.. cheap and easy... good Idea anyway micke...
since i work retail i get merchandise in in clear plastic boxes which i take home and add 2 layers of limmo tint then cut, works on royal guard masks and just about anything needing a visor since it is very flexible
TR3171
What is the best adhesive to use to keep your visor in place once you replace it?
I hear two part expoxy works pretty well-- for me it was a pain to hold in place, but once set it was solid, but I could still rip it out if I wanted to remove it.
Wouldn't you want something flexible like a silicone?
I used a bit of everything. Two part epoxy, Quicktight Glue, and some hot glue. Also, make sure to tape the front in place so it doesn't spread out as you hold the visor down against the inside.
If you're looking for flexibility, RTV sealant works. I used that on my first try. I used one that was black, and it held pretty good.
No more glues for me though. Screws all the way. Screws I can handle!
i use just a hotglue gun and thats seems to work for me.
Bear
Originally posted by robbacca:
i have looked every where and i cannot find one i keep finding the clear one and i could not get the window tint to work
Saftey Lab Inc. also makes a really nice green visor.
Ok, I missed this question the first time around, but yes, it's plenty dark, while still affording good visibility. Here's one installed-ImprissonedFett wrote:By any chance can you post pics of the product you bought? I dont want to get it if its not so dark green its almost black.
The pics on the site show it as kind of a grey color not nearly dark enough. Thanks.
Not only that you can use the cutouts from the cheeks for Stormtrooper and Rocketeer helmets!
-Sarge
I'm new to this but I used a open face tinted motorcycle helmet shield. Using a "thermal" shield allows you to go from low to high temperatures without the visor fogging up.
if i got the face shield would it work to put 2 layers of window tint on it to darken it?
That depends on how dark the tinted film is, and how well you want to see with your helmet on. I'd try one layer first (tint on the inside of the visor), and hold it up to your face in front of a mirror. If you can still see your face through it, add a second layer.
I've been reading all the visor forums while I've been waiting for my helmet to come in, and I've heard of the rear mounted and front mounted visor, I was wondering: What's it all mean? I know Front and rear is obvious.. just.. someone please explain. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Front mount/rear mount...sounds a bit like mating season on the Discovery channel.
A rear visor mount is when you take your visor, usually bigger than the T-visor area, and insert the visor from inside the helmet. In other words, it's pressing the piece of plastic behind the visor area, which gives the illusion of a perfectly cut/shaped visor.
This gives the visor a nice recessed look similar to the film helmet. In fact, the film helmet had a rear mounted visor that screwed into place. This method usually works well for standard Dp's from the '96 and up. Not that you couldn't use it on a '95, but it already has a recessed area on the front of the helmet that the others don't have.
A front mount is when you take your visor, cut to the exact dimensions of the T-visor area, and you lay it down on the T-visor area from the front/outside of the helmet. This method is best for the Dp 95's, as it as a recessed area that nicely accomodates a visor placed from the front. I can't speak for how well it works for the later models.
Hope that clears it up a bit.
Edit- Obi Wan's Jedi Academy has an interior mount tut here:
http://www.jedi-academy.com/fett_visor.html
And if you check in the general information section there is post with Fett links:
http://forum.thedentedhelmet.com/vie...ic=122&forum=1
There are couple sites in there have visor replacement info.
I've been reading old posts on molding the visor, and I haven't come to any one temperature or time. How long should you put it in the oven, and how hot?
I've never baked a visor (mmmmmmm...baked visor), but I'd recommend boiling over oven-heating. The effectiveness of the boiling may depend on the compostion of the visor, but I'm pretty sure it won't melt.
I think you always run the risk of melting the visor in the oven at the least or setting your house on fire at the worst.
Use a heat gun.
propane torch,
If you get to close for too long with a heat gun it'll burn the visor and make it bubble. A torch will do the same thing only worse. Boiling sounds like a lot of trouble too. The easiest way to do it is to bake it on a cookie sheet at 225 -250 F the melting point of acrylic is 225 so you don't need to worry about buring it as long as you don't set you temperatur too high. It should only take about 5-10 minutes fo it to get really flexible but you can still handle it. When you take it out of the oven use a cotton glove to handle and form it to shape quickly as it will cool and reharden very fast. If you mess up the shape just toss it back in the oven and try again.
Bingo! I just heated mine up, layed it into the helmet and pressed it so that it formed to the correct curve. If I screwed up, I just threw it back into the oven again.
Hey folks,
Stop paying $20-$25 for your visors. Here's a link to
http://www.omarksafety.com
And more specifically to their $6 tinted green visors!
http://www.omarksafety.com/category....45&aprodid=272
I ordered four from them. They work great. They're thick enough to last and quite durable. They're also thin enough to be easily bent to your helmet's shape. And the best part? You can use the extra 'throwaway' from the sides of the full visor to make accurate flat stormtrooper lenses!
Hope this helps,
Phil
At lowe's they have very heavy clear faceshields. They're very thick and difficult to cut, they also don't conform to different helmet shapes well. Fortunately all was not lost as it came with a nice hard hat. I removed the liner and installed that instead into my helmet
Phil
I've been scoring them with an x-acto knife and bend-snapping them. Not the most accurate method, but it works.
uhh how noticible is the green tint? cuz im planning on having my helmet be red
The Purity Knight
Dark green will work just fine...in fact the ESB helmet (film helmet)used a dark green tint face shield.Purity Knight wrote:uhh how noticible is the green tint? cuz im planning on having my helmet be red
The Purity Knight
I was wondering if someone could tell me the widths of the visor at points A and B on a Don Post '97, I got it with the visor already cut out and I am not sure how wide it should be.
Thanks.
The width of those A and B points on the DP 97 are 2 1/8" or 54mm.
I was curious as to what everyone used for their visors ( kinda like the AREA thread) I bought one from Swfladoug on ebay, if anyone knows him.. I wouldn't recommend him. I got it a few days ago, and it looked nice, 1/8 inch plexi, and when I ordered it, I asked if it would fit a DP 95. He said it would, as he moled it to fit his. Well, this wasn't true. At the top of the visor, where the forhead curves, it's flat, not good. And I broke it, but that was my fault. :p I was wondering, if you used a visor for welding, are you happy with it? Or if you used plexi, how did you mold it? And has anyone bought a visor from RA, and if so, how well did it fit? The questions I have, I haven't found previous threads, so, any help would be appreciated.
Oh yeah and, Happy Birthday to me!
I used plexi for my visor. To shape it, I turned a burner on my stove to high, and held the plexi over it bending it as I noticed it softening up. Big note though--WEAR OVEN MITTS!!! Not only does the plexi get real hot, there's that whole burner on high thing.
I also used Plexi. We have a shrink wrapping area in the backroom at work so I just used the heat gun to soften up the plastic. Even in that case gloves were needed
Thanks for the help guys, I actually just finished putting in my green welding visor, and I actually like it omre than the 1/8' plexi.
Originally posted by Sarge1nOnly:
I picked one up at a local welding shop, and promptly traced it back to the company!
www.rjsafety.com/EH38.html
Faceshield only Dark Green HF4178-DRK....$4.25
I just got one of these today and think it'll work fine! It's big enough, dark enough, and has a good flex to it.
Good luck!
-Sarge
<CENTER>
Originally posted by MaxPlague:
Check your local yellow pages for welding supplies, that's how I got mine. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/smokin.gif ALT=":smokin">
- MaxPlague
"There is no emoticon for what I feel right now."
"DEATH TO POP-UP WINDOW ADVERTISEMENTS!"
Originally posted by Pantera1889:
I got mine through the Grainger catalog.I work at a Transmission shop and my parts man ordered it for me.I don't know if you have to have a customer # or what.I can try to find out tomorrow.
Originally posted by bobafett1117:
i just mounted mine in the back with 6 screws worked beautifully then i hot glued it into place and sprayed some truck bed liner inside and its as sturdy as ever
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