Can ANYONE make rangefinder displays

Since Bobo hasn't been able to be tracked down as of yet to make more rangefinder displays I was wondering if ANYONE is up to the task. If I had a more broad range of electronics experience I would love to take up this project...alas I don't.

Since alot of hollow rangefinders are in hand since the last run I'm sure most of them have sat idle with no electronics to go in them....somebody has got to have a knack for this ....maybe "hyperdyne" will jump in

Steve

What does the range finder display do?
Are we talking the 2 flashing LEDs with a tilt sensor?
if so I could do that.

I think there are two that flash on top, and one that stays on for the front-side of the view screen, and yes a mercury switch to cut it on when it is in the down position.

Originally Posted by Forced Trekker

I think there are two that flash on top, and one that stays on for the front-side of the view screen, and yes a mercury switch to cut it on when it is in the down position.

What he said I think Bobo's "front-side" light was green...

Can I have confirmation before I look into it?
2 alternate flashing green on the front and 1 steady green on the back which activate when the range finder is down?

(easy peasy lemon squeezy)
what sort of space have I got to work with?
looks like I will have to buy a hollow range finder from Bobamaker.

Or pick-up an old DP helmet...I have a 97 rubies that is hollow too.

There are 3 lights? I have only seen 2 where is the other one?

There are two red on "top" of it and one green on "bottom". Let's make sure we communicate the right colors and number of LED's if this is picking up steam


Steve

Perhaps pics would help? I have somehow never seen the green one.

The only time we see the bottom of the rangefinder lit is during the Slave 1 cockpit scene in ESB. One can see a slight reflection as he turns his head. The light appears to be white. I'm not sure where any green LED comes into play.

Green??? Thats a first for me.

OK, so 2 alternate flashing red leds at the front and a dull white glow at the back to simulate a small screen.
I suppose the white light can go on the pcb so it will be visible if you have a window as above.
I'll let you talk about it further and look into making a few. (possibly powered by a cheap watch battery or something so there is no need for external wiring.

Mine didn't have external wiring... that was just to test it before it was completed. It ran on a small battery that looked like a AA but shorter...camera battery I think.

The best part about Bobo's setup was the mercury switch. The connection was made as the circuit board inside the finder tipped forward (to the 'down' position), and the lights came on. This was rather ingenious, as the lights went out as the stalk went back to the raised position.

I have a good source for mercury free tilt swithces...
http://forums.thedentedhelmet.com/sh...8249#post88249

Hey guys,

If you remember, I made a rangefinder display many moons ago before there were popular. It had the 2 red LEDs that blinked and a pinging sound that was triggered with a tilt switch. It used watch batteries and fit in the old hollow rangefinder stalks. I could add a small white LED to the back display no problem too.

If there is some interest I can certainly resurrect that project. I would need at least 5 people to commit to buying one before I could get a batch made. If this pans out I can go back and find my pricing sheet on these. From what I read I would do the red LED sequencing and add a white LED to the back. That LED can be static, blink at a different rate, or even fade in and out.

I'd likely be interested in a couple (2) of them, depending on the price.

Yea I am in for a set as well pending price.

Price would be the determining factor.

I'm in for a set!

ok, let me dig out my spreadsheet so I can quote a hard price on these. I will report back then! Thanks.

I'm In!!!!!!! please hurry as I need it before CIII.

I highly recommend hyperdyne's stuff. I bought his RF servo w/light setup a few years back for my fiberglass helmet. A little pricey for some, but top-notch professional work!

hyperdyne....you mentioned the stalk as a place of installation. Do tell....the nice part about Bobo's was its self containment completely inside the rangefinder while running off of a large watch battery and the mercury switch. This is the method of manufacture that I was hoping to have resurrected...


The price Bobo was sporting was $50 bucks.....I remember 'cuz I keep kicking myself for not picking one up at the time for the price

Steve

Originally Posted by Boba Swede

I have a good source for mercury free tilt swithces...
http://forums.thedentedhelmet.com/sh...8249#post88249

I keep trying that page,but IE says "page cannot be displayed" I tried then and just now.............no luck

I think that it's not a reflection but a screen displaying the milenium falcon if you look closly it frsembles it. this can also be supported by the game Bounty Hunter.Which Kicks ***. i was thinking of puting a camera instead of the LED's and Puting a real screan in.

Whoops, I misspoke. The board and batteries do fit inside the rangefinder head, NOT the stalk. I got my fett-ese all mixed up there...

Very interesting point....considering the Falcon is in the foreground it is very plausible that is the intended target,again, considering it is a range/target-finder


Would it be possible to have a "viewmasterlike" slide made that small to insert into the frame of our rangefinders?? When backlit with the soft white it would show the Falcon?? That would kick arse

Steve

Steve, that is a cool idea. If you cut the viewfinder out it might be easiest to print out the falcon on a transparency and mount it. Backlight it with a white LED and voila!

Originally Posted by webchief

Mine didn't have external wiring... that was just to test it before it was completed. It ran on a small battery that looked like a AA but shorter...camera battery I think.

Prob a 12v or also as a type N battery.

But hyperdyne If you can make such a thing, depending on the price im in!!!!!!

I might be interested depending on price.

Hey all,

I found my original design and it looks like these boards will run $60-$65 depending on the quantity I make. If I make under 10 the price will be $65 each.

The board includes the 2 red LEDs on it and I can add a small white LED on the back side. I should be able to get the tilt switches also that go on the board. The whole thing runs on three watch batts that you can mount in the hollow RF as well (a set of batteries will be included).

Another feature of my board is that you can also select 4 different sequencing modes for the top red LEDs: 1) ESB pinging mode, 2) alternating mode, 3) random mode 1, 4) random mode 2. This at least gives you some flavor instead of just the simple alternating LEDs all the time.

Let me know what you think.

I would be interested at that price, although now I need to track down a hollow rangefinder for it...

Originally Posted by Evil Benius

I would be interested at that price, although now I need to track down a hollow rangefinder for it...

I got a very nice hollow rangefinder from bobamaker, give him a PM

Yea I would take one at that price. I like the features.

Crickey! how much, mine will never cost that much.
My one, 2 alternating flashing red LEDs, 1 static white with a tilt switch.
No modes, no pings, no fuss.

I doubt mine will be more than $35 including postage from the UK.
Give me a while, I am finishing a few other projects.

I made this a while back for my Jango lid. Instead of a mercury tilt switch, it uses a contact, in the full down position, to illuminate the targeting recticle and laser.

Why isnt this bucket in the ...
"Show off your finish Jango bucket" thread JD?
It looks awesome and maybe of great inspiration to us all!
Post it up buddy PA-LEASEEEEEE!

Mason...

Evilution, do you see me here price bashing your stuff? That is just bad form. Sorry you think that is too much. I suggest you make your own.

For those who want a different set of options, I will make mine available. Added features = added value. Sure I could do a simple alternating circuit for less, but then again anyone could with a 555 timer and a primer from Radio Shack.

My goal is always to futher the hobby with inventive kits. I tend to be on the leading edge while others are content with the trailing edge. That is fine, but dont bash others who strive to fly higher. I also have a sound option on my board - so even comparing yours to mine is apples and oranges.

Good luck with your kit...

Originally Posted by Evilution

Crickey! how much, mine will never cost that much.
My one, 2 alternating flashing red LEDs, 1 static white with a tilt switch.
No modes, no pings, no fuss.

I doubt mine will be more than $35 including postage from the UK.
Give me a while, I am finishing a few other projects.

Originally Posted by hyperdyne

Evilution, do you see me here price bashing your stuff? That is just bad form. Sorry you think that is too much. I suggest you make your own.

For those who want a different set of options, I will make mine available. Added features = added value. Sure I could do a simple alternating circuit for less, but then again anyone could with a 555 timer and a primer from Radio Shack.

My goal is always to futher the hobby with inventive kits. I tend to be on the leading edge while others are content with the trailing edge. That is fine, but dont bash others who strive to fly higher. I also have a sound option on my board - so even comparing yours to mine is apples and oranges.

Good luck with your kit...

You know I'm in bud I'll check around to some local print shops and see if they can get something printed on transparency (sp ) to fit into the range display....I'll tell them it's about the size of a postage stamp.

Steve

Don't forget about Hyperdyne's awesome rf servo setup.
That's what powers my rf. I wish it would travel a bit faster, though.

judz, if you want your RF to go faster I can give you an upgrade chip for that. How much faster, 2x, 3x?

My worry is that the faster it goes the more stress on the RF linkage. But just so you know that it can be done!!

I may be in for one of these, I'll have to check Also Hyperdyne, do you still ahve the servo setup available? If so, how much?

Hey, i'm not bashing your prices i'm just stating what I think.
Our kits are different, I can't possibly charge much for what goes into my future kit as there isn't that much in it.
Things in USA are way cheaper than stuff in the UK, even then, the parts for my kit won't cost more than £10.

Jumping in on my thread, That is just bad form.

Originally Posted by hyperdyne

judz, if you want your RF to go faster I can give you an upgrade chip for that. How much faster, 2x, 3x?

My worry is that the faster it goes the more stress on the RF linkage. But just so you know that it can be done!!

2x would be great. It would be about the same speed as the homing position speed. That's a good speed, and doesn't stress the linkage. Let me know how much, where to PayPal, and how to put it in. Thanks.

Hey, I was joking.
English humour eh!

judz, I think 2x will be doable. If you want to get a chip, just send me an email: hyperdyne@hyperdynelabs.com

I wont charge you for the chip. All you will have to do is pop the controller chip out of its socket and install the new one in the same fashion (noting direction). It's pretty easy once you look at it...

Originally Posted by judz dwedd

2x would be great. It would be about the same speed as the homing position speed. That's a good speed, and doesn't stress the linkage. Let me know how much, where to PayPal, and how to put it in. Thanks.

Originally Posted by crisisfilms

I may be in for one of these, I'll have to check Also Hyperdyne, do you still ahve the servo setup available? If so, how much?

I do have the servo controller boards still available, you can get much more info on what I have off my site page:
http://www.hyperdynelabs.com/product...unterServo.php

The wireless RC boards I dont have in stock but can still get. Or you can order one online if you want to save a couple bucks and do the wireless hookup yourself. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Originally Posted by hyperdyne

judz, I think 2x will be doable. If you want to get a chip, just send me an email: hyperdyne@hyperdynelabs.com

I wont charge you for the chip. All you will have to do is pop the controller chip out of its socket and install the new one in the same fashion (noting direction). It's pretty easy once you look at it...

You ROCK ! ....email sent.

Is there any discount to order the servo and lights together?

So back to the topic. . . . . Can anyone make the Flashing mercury switch Rangefinder LED kits?

Yes, I will begin working on it very soon.

Yes I can. I have a couple boards here now waiting to be finished. I am just waiting for my shipment of tilt switches to arrive. I should be getting them any day. Once I have them watch this space for pics!!

Originally Posted by bobafett669

So back to the topic. . . . . Can anyone make the Flashing mercury switch Rangefinder LED kits?

SWEEET!!!!!

im interested as well.

Hi guys,

I finally got a prototype of the RF display circuit running. I actually redesigned the board, so it will be tad different. The one below is the working proto:



I am basically reworking the battery holder to see if I can make it more compact and all on one board.

Again, this board has 4 different LED sequences (selectable via the jumper pins shown). It also has a hyperbright white LED on the backside of the board.

Here are a couple movies showing the board working with the tilt switch.

http://www.hyperdynelabs.com/misc/fettrfled1.avi
http://www.hyperdynelabs.com/misc/fettrfled2.avi

Let me know what you think. These are going to be $60 +shipping. If I get enough interest brewing I will do a small batch of them. Email me if you have any questions!

Jim

Looks good but concerned about the jumpers sticking out on the side. I may nit fit into the rangefinder. Also where is the wire running to? I assume the battery but we need a selfcontained battery unit so something like the round 3V batteries mounted on the back side. What is this one running off of?

Can you measure the width across including the jumpers?

WOW! very nice job jim
the led light sequence in the first video was great.
im wondering about the jumper pins myself.

Yeah, I can make the jumpers straight instead of at a right angle if that is a problem. The board + jumpers measures 1 1/8" in width right now. Again this is just a prototype so nothing is set in stone. On my original design, the jumpers were straight and they fit inside a hollow RF no problem. I just used some old header pins I had laying around.

The board does run off coin cell batteries, 3 of them. I am looking to put the battery springs on the board so the batts just sit on the other side of the board. Right now the board and batts will fit inside an RF as that is the same battery source I used before in my first version LED circuit (See here: http://www.hyperdynelabs.com/misc/fett_rf_guts.jpg).

I dont have my hollow RF anymore, so if someone can take internal measurements that would also help. It's been awhile since I messed around with one..

Thanks.

Do these come in a "kit -form" ?

Will these boards still make the ESB beeping sound?

Jim,that is freaking awesome!!! As far as measurements go the hollow rangefinders that I and I'm sure many others have is from "bobamaker" since he was the only one that recently offered them....and I just measured the interior as it came,with a width clearance of 1". If the right angle sequencing pins made up the 1/8" difference then I'd really like it if they were upright since there is still room with that respect.


Again,it's coming along rediculously AWESOME!! Thanks so much for picking up the ball and running with it on this for us.

I can't wait to see the final product with battery and a tilt switch

Steve

Might have to get me one of them

I am definitely interrested.

I will certainly install the jumpers upright so everything will still fit inside the rangefinder head.

The tilt switch is already installed in the above video, the batts are too they are just on a wire. I have some new boards being made, which I hope will make everything more compact. I will post new pics when i get one built up.

This new board doesnt make any pinging sounds, but adds in the extra white LED. I can certainly make one of those pinging boards anyone likes. You typically have to drill a hole in your RF for the sound to escape though.

Anyway, I hope to show off this new version very soon.

Originally Posted by DL44 Blaster

Jim,that is freaking awesome!!! As far as measurements go the hollow rangefinders that I and I'm sure many others have is from "bobamaker" since he was the only one that recently offered them....and I just measured the interior as it came,with a width clearance of 1". If the right angle sequencing pins made up the 1/8" difference then I'd really like it if they were upright since there is still room with that respect.


Again,it's coming along rediculously AWESOME!! Thanks so much for picking up the ball and running with it on this for us.

I can't wait to see the final product with battery and a tilt switch

Steve

My new speed chip from Hyperdyne is PERFECT !

I'd rather have the white backlight over the ESB sound, but both would be peachy if possible.

im definitly interested jim and im anxious to see the finished version.
if possible, maybe it would be possible to include the pinging sound as a option or something for those that want it since im not interested in having the sound but just a basic setup with the 2 upper red leds, 1 bottom white led, and tilt switch.

I am definitely interested as well.

Yeah, the version I made several years back had the pinging sound but no 3rd LED. I can offer that as an option, but it does raise the price too.

I dont think I can fit both the speaker and extra LED, since the small speaker does take up some room inside the RF head. That would take a bit of experimentation.

At this time I plan to finish up the current version with top LEDs and one backlit white LED. I will handle the pinging version as special requests if need be...

Jim, I'm interested as well. I'll also be contacting you for another servo system, too.

I got the final board in and just got finished building one up. It works great!

Plus I like how the batteries are also now mounted on the board. I was trying to conserve space best as possible since the RF is notoriously cramped and oddly shaped.

At any rate, I should have pics and a video soon...

Any estimated time on when these will be available for purchase?

Wow, just checked out the video. Nice work hyperdyne!

These will be ready to purchase as soon as I get a web page up. I will be working on it this week.

Here is the new board prototype. Board comes with the 2 red flashing LEDs (with 4 different sequencing modes to choose from) and a white or blue backlit LED. The board operates off 3 coin cell batteries and includes the self-contained tilt switch to automatically turn the board on and off.

**********************************
NOTE: I realize the tilt switch is upside down and is a mirror image of what you need for a right-sided rangefinder. The final board will fix this issue so dont worry. I am just showing pics here of the latest incarnation. The final board will flip the tilt switch so it will operate properly for a right-sided rangefinder (the one shown below is for a custom left-sided rangefinder).
**********************************





And here is a movie of the board in action (the ESB flashing sequence is shown).
http://www.hyperdynelabs.com/misc/fettrfled_f.avi

I havent test fit this into a hollow RF, but since it is a derivative of my old board I dont see any problems. I placed the batteries on the top side of the board so you could mount the whole thing on the lid of the RF and just snap it in place (since the batteries took up alot of room when separate from the board).

Also I have a small delay in the unit turning on to allow your RF to go all the way down before the lights activate. I can fine tune this if necessary. I always include some sort of turn on delay so if you tilt your head forward your RF board isnt constantly turning on and off.

Any comments, suggestions, etc are welcome...

Awesome.

WoW, I definitly want one......

Definitely want at least one! Fantastic job! PM me about the voice changers, are they available again?

Thanks,

Geo

excellent. I want one!

Voice changer just crackle your voice? I noticed on the original his voice is very rough, almost like his voice is metallc.

Yeah, my Vortex voice changer adds in this metallic sound to your voice - sounds more like the original Boba. My low cost voice changer does more of a Jango effect now, since they changed all the Fett voices to sound like him.

Back to the RF units, I hope the web page is done soon. I just sent off all the info to the webmaster. Thanks for your patience.

BTW, does anyone have depth measurements of the hollow rangefinder from top lid to bottom?

Originally Posted by cal196

Voice changer just crackle your voice? I noticed on the original his voice is very rough, almost like his voice is metallc.

I finally have 6 of the new RF LED units ready to go! If you are interested in getting one please email me at shima@hyperdynelabs.com

The cost of the unit is $67 shipped to you via USPS. The package includes
1) assembled and tested RF LED unit
2) 3 energizer silver oxide coin cell batts in blister pack
3) color instructions

Again, the RF LED unit has a built-on tilt switch to turn on automatically when your RF is lowered. The board also have 4 different LED sequencing modes to choose from, and a white backlit LED for illuminating the inside of the viewfinder.

E-mail sent.

email sent


Steve

And to think, i thought I was awesome for doing my rf lights the way I did. mercury switches? Sounds a bit complex for me, lol.







The on off switch is in the center hole under the RF stalk.

great setup,but how do you hide the wires??? Looks kind of cumbersome to conceal.

The wires all seperate. The first set runs down the stalk (but are usually concealed with chrome tape (that stalk is not chrome yet). There is a small hole in the helmet the wires go into. The rest are taped inside the helmet. Not too cumbersome once inside the helmet. The battery goes just to the right of the back vents. dont even feel in when wearing it.

Sweet....

Well, my Hyperdyne RF LED display arrived today but I have not been able to figure out just how it fits into the head piece. I know its a tight fit and all but this is turning into a rubics cube mind bender, anyone have a suggestion?

Cheers,
-Kevin

I wish I did....I am waiting for Marrow Sun to get his accurate RF sculpt hollowed out before I get hyperdynes LED kit. The kit is supposed to be a direct drop in for bobamakers RF since I believe his is on hyperdynes website with the LEDkit installed. Either way the red LED's go up,which I'm sure you already know...not making fun. If it's not a perfect fit there's always the dremel route to make more room...I currently own a bobamaker RF and there is still plenty of room to take out of the inside if need be.


Keep us posted....and pics are always a plus

Steve

Well, even after a little dremel work I have run out of space I will have to wait for MS' Range Finder.

-Kevin

Hey Kevin,

Where is the fit the tightest? This version did fit in a older DP hollow RF head. I can maybe give you some help on how to cram it all in there. You may have to move the red LED leads down a tad to make the fit match the depth of the RF head.

After a lot of bending of parts I did manage to get this into the Rubies Jango Hollow Range finder. The top still does not fit securely yet though. Need about anothe 1/16" or 1/8".

Now I know you Jango fanatics will say Jango did not have a working rangefinder in the movie but I don't care.

I had to bend the jumpers so I can only use the setting that has the jumpers off and the tilt switch had to be bent out to the side .

Jim, In the future you might try putting the jumpers and mercury switch on the top and shortening the length of the red LED posts a little. I used a dremil on the top of the battery holders to grind them down a little bit to get to the point I am at now.

This helmet will get me through CIII and then I can start work on my new MS2.

http://www.koenigscollectibles.com/Jango/DCP_2010.MOV
http://www.koenigscollectibles.com/Jango/DCP_2012.MOV

Sounds like you're at the exact same stage I'm at with my BM RF. The lid is still about 1/16th inch away from closing completely, I had to bend the LED pins, and the tilt switch, and I had to dremel the tops of the battery connectors.

Heh, if your like me and you dont want to hastle with odd batteries or "mercury switches", you can simply put two exposed metal pads at the base of the RF, on on the RF and the other at the bottom where it rests on the ear, when it is down, they touch and the circut is completed (that means it flashes) and by this method you can use AAs or some such more common battery that also wont be added weight in the RF.

Thanks for the feedback. I can certainly put the jumpers on the top next to the batteries. I figured that may give you a bit of more working room on the bottom part - but I wasnt sure. You can also snip the jumpers down some if need be. They are pretty long now and can be shorter. I was going to put the tilt switch up top but then the batteries get in the way. So I will have to think about how to mod that.

I will also make the note about shortening the red LED legs. Should they be just a tad above the batteries?

Thanks again for bearing with me.

Jim

Originally Posted by bobafett669

Jim, In the future you might try putting the jumpers and mercury switch on the top and shortening the length of the red LED posts a little. I used a dremil on the top of the battery holders to grind them down a little bit to get to the point I am at now.

This helmet will get me through CIII and then I can start work on my new MS2.

http://www.koenigscollectibles.com/Jango/DCP_2010.MOV
http://www.koenigscollectibles.com/Jango/DCP_2012.MOV