Building the mandibles.
You will need these temps here:
Just like before I glued the cheek templates on the styreene and cut them out with regular scissors.
The cheekbone and the cheekbone backplate was glued to each other with special styreen glue. Brought together, the material is 2mm thick. The extra border you will get is very helpful when bring all cheek parts together.
Good idea Alan !!
Because the 1mm styreen is not very bendable I cut the cheekbone parts in 4 pieces. SD68 did it in the same way, it really worked well, thanx SD !!
All cheekbone borders were directly sticked, only with super glue.
It almost unbelievable how strong super glue bonds styrene together! Absolut fantastic!!
I started with the bottom mandible parts first I glued them very roughly in position. After checking their position I assembled everything together.
After that, I reinforced all seems with styreen stripes.
The right side:
Last edited by digifett; Sep 6, 2007 at 11:50 AM.
I thought I was seeing things when the words on the helmet were in German, but then I noticed you were from Germany.
Wanderbar! Alles sieht sehr fantastich aus!
Attaching the dome
Attaching the dome was very simple. Because the dome should be a little smaller than the helmet main body ring, I wrapped 1mm extra layers of tape around the dome. I did overlaping the tape over the dome's rim so I could insert the dome a little to the body. Then I fixed the dome outside with a lot tape to the body.
With glass mats and resin I glued the dome to the body permanently.
After hardening I could remove the tape layers very easily...
This picture I took right after attaching the dome:
The visor is just drawn with a permanent marker. The cheeks here are sanded already a little:
The visor I cut out partial. To strengthen and to round off the contruction I glued a piece of WOF "Helmet Base" as bridge temporarily in.
Ihr Helm schaut sehr gut. Sie haben die Oberkiefer genau richtig gemacht
I don't think my german is that good
Wanderbar! Alles sieht sehr fantastich aus!Your German is so nice !! How you all know it so well? :thumbupIhr Helm schaut sehr gut. Sie haben die Oberkiefer genau richtig gemacht
Thank you very much
Excellent job!!! This is look better with every post. Thank you very much to taking on this task. It is such a big load off my back I can't even describe.
When it is complete maybe we could work together to create a PDF downloadable version to include with the helmet templates. Let me know what you think of the idea?
Keep up the great work.
Absolutely a great idea Alan !! I would like to that with you !When it is complete maybe we could work together to create a PDF downloadable version to include with the helmet templates. Let me know what you think of the idea?
But sometimes I may not have taken photos of every single step which might be necessary. I worked and worked and worked and later I thought, oh no I forgot to take photos in between...
Also my way to build the helmet might be a little unusual sometimes comparing to yours ??
Anyway, the helmet is almost done, I think it has a little similarity to the Boba bucket
I'm sure someone else here is going to attempt the WOF templates. Digifett, let us know what steps you did take pictures of. Whatever you didn't photograph, someone else can. That way, Alan can have a full set of pictures of all the steps.
Wow... very nice tutorial! Well done! And the Helmet looks great.
I'm going to build my own Mando-helmet, and this thread was and will be a great help! I'm from Germany, too, and because of my bad English-skills I've problems to understand some thing written in this Forum, but this tutorial is realy great and even I'm able to understand it (and i hope you English-speaking guys are able to understand me)
I'm actually looking for all the materials i will need and I'm going to start working on my helmet next weekend (if I find time to do this).
@digifett: So if you need some aditional photos, let me know!
Großartiges Tutorial. Vielen Dank auch für die vielen Bilder. Hoffe ja das ich auch irgendwann mal an meinem Versuch weiterbastele und der dann genauso gut aussieht, dir auf jeden Fall noch viel Erfolg und viel Spaß (hast ja hoffentlich heute genug Zeit ;-)) und weiter fleißig Bilder posten. Liebe Grüße. Und nicht wundern warum mein Deutsch so gut ist, liegt daran das ich auch aus Deutschland komme. Grüße aus Dresden.
Ok for the members who didn´t understand the first part, i will translate the main part:
Great tutorial, thank you verry much for the pictures, i hope that when i start reworking at my first attempt, it will look as great as your does. wish you all the best with working on your helmet and keep up posting pictures. greetz. and do not wonder why my german is so good and my english so bad, thats why i came from germany too. ;-)
Thank you so much for all the nice complements, ideas and the German greetings !! Today I found the time to make another chapter:
Applying the mask:
The helmet has some elevated parts, thats what I will call "The Mask"
It also includes the head band and the sideburns.
To spare some styrene material and to simplify the gluing of those big parts, I cut the mask in many simple parts. Here you can see my way I cut the WOF temps. Each blue color shading represents a single new part:
Starting with the right mask part -the biggest part- I began at the exact middle of the eye area using first super glue for about 1cm, before be very sure the mask is perfectly aligned !! The rest of the mask I glued with the polystyrene cement, being patient and glued and pressed each cm one by one... Be sure you use a lot of the polystyrene cement, when it comes out a little on each sides, then it is perfect. Keep the cement becoming hard and later on cut it off with the scalpel.
With all other mask parts use the same applying method.
See here, with the mask applied the Boba bucket slowly wins its characteristic charm ! The visors rim is now twice as thick.
I've been lurking these forums for the past month and a half to 2 months and I read this thread every day for inspiration. Your helmet is amazing. Hopefully I'll have mine starting to shape very soon. Thanks for helping me achieve one of my dreams in having my own armor and helmet.
man thats a great job and awesome step by step
Smoothing out the cheeks:
Hence of the polystyrene 1mm material is pretty stiff, the corners of the cheeks compared to the original helmet are very very sharp. To smooth out the corners I used a special shaped scraper, car body fine polyester filler and sandpaper grain 300.
The special shaped scraper I built from a left over of polystyrene. As guide for the scrapers curve I just used a bottom of a small can, marked it with a permanent marker and cut out the shape.
After mixing the filler you have only 2 min to get the correct shape. So before I practiced the movement of my hand a couple of times. The trick is to flatten the scrapers angle during the filling process, that varies the curvature to the outside and makes it a little wider. For me it looked like the original has that.
So after mixing the putty it is important that you fill the corner in one move, you start at the inner side and move pretty straight outwards. If the shape is not what you expected do the same movement again form the beginning to the end. When you stop in the middle of the filling process you will get waves or bumps, later on its much harder to sand them away.
This photo I took right after the filling procedure.
This was after sanding a little bit, it looks pretty close to the original, what do you think? (Unfortunately not the dome...I know)
**Bump** for progress.
I am sorry it took so long but I am way too busy right now. Please forgive me.
But today I will start with my favorite part on this helmet:
The adventure of building the perfect key slots!
Needed WOF templates:
After reading SD68 did his way building them, I thought there must be an easier way! Why I should bend the material in a complicated way, when I just can buy a perfectly bended material?? As I went to a building center, I found these nice sink pipes in the perfect size. Unfortunately their are made of Polypropylene. Its a very strong and extremely ductile material. In the beginning I thought it doesn't matter, but it did. This material is terrible!! It's almost impossible to cut, you will never get sharp edges, so please forget this idea
I never found any other cheap and perfect sized pipe material, so I must say:
SD68 way is the best way!!
This is his idea:
Cut out the styrene using Alan's wonderful flat keyslot template.
Use the scalpel and your scissors for the outside shape. The keyslots are being cut out by the scalpel only.
Then push it a around a hard and heat resistant tube. Here I used a slim bottle.
But again here I did a small mistake. I cooked the material for about 10min. That was way too long!! The whole thing shrank and became way to small, also all the thin parts became wavy. All the work for nothing... again!
As I think the material was too thin for all the heat, I decided a saver way. Again I cut out the same shape like before using Alans keyslot temp. But this time I did not cut out the entire keyslots. Instead, I just cut 2/3 way through.
I bought a metal tube with 42mm diameter. Using the same fiberglass tape I fixed the keyslot on the tube. Over the keyslot part I put some styrene left over to have a consistent pressure. I wrapped the fiberglass tape around it to have even more consistent pressure.
The I cooked it for only 2 minutes !!!
See here the fixing tape.
The advantage is, you get a stronger and more heat resistant part. After when it's bend, you don't have to push or cut a lot on this very filigree part and may risk a crack or a deformation. With little pressure and a tiny cut from the other side I could push out slot after slot.
The result was perfect for me. Finally!!
Last edited by digifett; Jan 8, 2008 at 9:48 AM.
Haha! Very cool! This helmet is turning out fantastic!
Great work! I wish I'd thought of it
Hey digifett. I did something similar for my vent. I didn't cut the slots in the pipe though. All I did was cut the keyhole part out of card stock and glued it on the surface of the pipe. This meant there were no holes in my sculpture. The shape of the keyholes on the surface of the plastic pipe section was enough to use as a guide for cutting after casting.
But it just occured to me that I don't think you intend to cast your helmet... so maybe my method isn't very useful to you anyway. Besides, what you did worked great. So I'll just shaddap now.
No, that is a absolutely great idea! It's really a smart way to build a mold master.so maybe my method isn't very useful to you anyway. Besides, what you did worked great. So I'll just shaddap now.
I needed open keyholes because I want to put a MQ-1 circuit board behind it. I am note sure now, maybe later I will take a cast of my helmet to build a Jango version... Thank you a lot for your nice tip!
This is my first time modeling something at this size. So please forgive my questions.
Today I was working on a cardboard mocking up (before I start the polystyrene version).
Now I have some questions.
1. How wide did you make the dome base (after you removed the center material?
2. How did you fuse the helmet's back seam together? I noticed in a few of your photos you had some holes in the back. With my mock up the seam keeps splitting apart and the helmet has lost it's shape.
Keep up the awesome work.
The WOF blueprints have a pattern for the dome base. What I did was print the pattern, put it together, then cut it out of one piece of foam-core board.
Also, you can glue a wide piece of extra plastic sheeting in the back to fuse it together. The cardboard is very unforgiving when it comes to seems on a curve. Plastic holds together pretty well with tape.
Hey, Digifett, any new pics yet?