i just assumed but that is a helpful illustration
Discussion on Boba Fett Helmet Blueprints/Templates within the Boba Fett Helmet forum, part of the Star Wars Original Trilogy Bounty Hunters category; i just assumed but that is a helpful illustration
i just assumed but that is a helpful illustration
Just a small bump.
The first post has now been updated to include the flat pattern for the dome. It is a PDF file the is intended to print out on standard 8.5" X 11" paper with a .25" boarder. The pattern is divided into 3 pages and the flat pattern is made of 20 gores (panels).
wizardofflight, when you say you may have to cut this piece into two pieces to get it glued down, do you mean the blue piece?
WOF thanks a ton for these templates. I've been working with my friend on a scaled down version for his son and so far it is coming out great. Thanks.
That would be the one. I cut it in 2 parts (see the line on the blue part that starts from the 90 degree corner. It just made it easier to work with.
Excellent work and very impressive
I'm using the flatpattern templates and I was wondering, what should I use to smooth out the dome and fill in the gaps?
I thought to use some drywall mud/filler but thought it might break apart too easily and become a powder.
To be specific on what PSberetta said... there are a couple of types of bondo you can get. Get the body filler not the glaze putty. The glaze is a one part compound but not nearly as strong as the filler. The filler dryes like cement and becomes fully sandable. Epoxy putty would work well to and is sandable.
Thanks, that helps a lot.
I know that this thread is older, but I just wanted to thank the Wizard for his great work providing these templates. They have made life a heck of alot easier....
Is there a jango copy? Ive been told the main changes are in the visor ( more squinty) the range finder mount, the cheeks are diferent, and the key holes at the rear
Last edited by Darth-Malevelus; 03-25-2007 at 08:13 AM.
I am still collecting reference material and will be doing a Jango helmet, but I have been taking a little break from Fett templates to do a number of projects that I have been ignorign for too long. Not to worry it is on the list.
just wanted to say a big thanks. i've been looking all over for some sort of blueprint for making a helmet for a long time now. i printed off the templates, cut them out and taped them together. it's looking good so far. now i've just got to decide what material i want to build the actual helmet with. anyone with any suggestions???
I believe Honus has posted a thread on using chipboard or cardboard. Also SD68, has used a baseball batting helmet for the dome and "For Sale" signs from Home Depot for the rest of the helmet. Kripps and Kibosh also have threads on that.
Sintra would be a good, inexpensive material to use. That is what the For Sale signs are made of. I have gotten some scrap Sintra from a sign company locally. All I did was ask if they had any leftovers from a project. I've got more than enough to make a helmet and will use the rest for my gauntlets or armor. You may also want to search for "trash can armor" and make some body armor form that or sintra. AFettfullofdollars made some great trash can armor and has a thread on it.
This site has got a TON of information and some very talented and experienced people on it. It's a great resource for enthusiastic newbies like me.
You may want to use chipboard, the backing material for legal pads and notepads, to experiment with first to get a feel for the assembly process of the helmet and for fitting the armor.
Welcome to the club! Be patient, good luck and keep us posted.
well, i've not put one together, mostly anyways. all except the dome. I've got a good feel for assembly being a sheet metal worker and all. And i think i've got a lead on some good and cheap pvc sheets. We're taking a lot of plastic forming, fusing, and welding right now in trade school. my goal out of that is to make a helmet that i can use in paintball. I'll be posting pics as it comes along, but it may be a little while yet before i can actually get around to it, or afford the materials for that matter. but thanks again everyone for all the encouragement and tips. much appreciated.
Heres some pics.
Im going to make the ridges and raised areas, using standard cardboard boxes, Then Ill glass over it all. Ill probably buy the ears, or make them out of balsa.
Great plans M8!!! I also thank you.
But I do ask, could you, when you make your jango plans, offer them in a "movie sized, or big guy size" version if you want to call it that. Basically something that will look correct on 6' + tall PPL?
BTW this took about 3 hours, as I had to transcribe the print outs onto poster board. Super glue does not stick to poster board I found.
And the most difficult areas were the cheeks. But overall great plans!!
Oh and jim beef, I am a structural mechanic for the US Navy, and I have started a 6061 T-6 aluminum jet pack, and looking at TIG welding it all together, this on the other hand has turned out to be far more of a project then I anticipated. making it out of sheet metal is a project and a half. Composites are far easier to work with, and easier to join, repair, ect. I think I may scrap my tig welded project altogether, as the time necessary to do all that is far longer than I expected. I think Ill just proceed with the strongest and lightest material possible, rather than go with the all Metal Jango. The armor sure, but the helmet and jet pack is just way too much work, at least for me at the moment.
If you go ahead with it, Id love to see a step by step on what you did though!
Last edited by Darth-Malevelus; 04-05-2007 at 12:34 PM.
i think i found a pretty slick way to do the dome for anyone having some troubles with it. plus as and added bonus, it seats on your head well and you can secure it. i found a good deal on a cheapie skateboard helmet, which, when i lined it up with the pattern cut outs, was almost a perfect line up with the dome contours. i've attatched my paper one to the helmet now, and i've got a little bit of tweeking to do, but it's lining up pretty sweet so far. i'm just hoping to get all the little bugs and tweeks figured out before i start putting some money into some plastics or fibre glass (haven't decided yet). here's a couple pics of how it lines up with the skateboard helmet.
No cutting and it fits the pattern? Where did you find a cheap skateboarding helmet?
i got it a Canadian Tire. which probably doesn't do you any good if you live outside of Canada, or no where near the border. i bought it thinking i could quarter it, and still use the foam padding from it, but it all lined up good, so i'm just going to build around it
I'll have to check that out, where I am there's the 3rd biggest canadian tire in canada.
LOL two inches,... LOL
Does anyone have any idea on what to use to make the mold with? Id like to make mine out of some sort of plastic, but no idea what to use, Ive read here that someone was going to use spray on rubberized undercoating. But does anyone know anything else to use? Something more like hard plastic when cured.
I have finished off, elmers glueing everything, and systematically removing all the masking tape. I have used cardboard cut outs of the rear sections, and the visor cut out, and inserted them and glued them in place to make the negative of the raised areas on the helmet. Yet now closing in on the actuall casting portion itself, Im at a loss, of what to use that will end up as a hard plastic (like most toys). Id use glass but Id prefer something a little less messy. Id use plastic weld but it would take days, as I can only mix small amounts at a time.
What was the stuff they used in the special features when they showed them making the dome for vader? It was pigmented, and looked fairly easy to work with.
Any other ideas?
What are you intending to make the rest of the helmet with? I've yet to see anyone make a mold from a cardboard helmet.
No, its not a cardboard helmet. LOL
Its made of poster board from WOF's plans. On the indside of the helmet I have placed card board where the T is in the Visor, and on the back of the inside below where the ridgeline of the helmet is.
Being that the inside of the posterboard helmet is in fact a negative, I using the cardboard which was rolled with a sheetmetal roller to keep it from kinking. to get the contours and ridges I need.
Im going to smear a thin coat of silicone caulking on everything inside to act a release agent. But Im not sure of the best plastic material to use for the casting material, that is readily available from a local store.
Waiting 6-8 weeks via mail order for a replenishment of casting matl, or anything gets to be a pain. And I'd like to try something different than Epoxy if I can.
I found out about waiting for shipping,when I discovered a source for the star wars paints from the OT, and ran out in the middle of my vader project.
Im looking to make this bucket out of some sort of durable plastic. something alittle easier to tool. and less hazardous to my lungs.
I'm planning on finishing mine out of PCV sheets. Which is why i'm spending so much time messing around with the cardboard and paper versions of it now. I want to be sure that eveything is going to line up and still fitt my noggin when all is said and done. The nice thing about the PVC is that you can take your flat patters, heat them, and roll them into shape. and if they don't quite roll right, you can always re-heat them, and try again.
Well the first coats of resin are going on today.
heres you can see the cardboard inside to give the T visor depth when the glass is done being layed down.
And here you can see the cardboard pieces installed inside to give the dome ridge depth
This will get several coats of resin alone, before adding glass for reinforcement later.
Once I get my batting helmet I'll section it as needed and glass that down as well to the already glassed lower portion, making them one piece.
After the resin is sufficiently thick Ill sand/peel away the paper and cardboard to leave only fiberglass. Im sure this will take several months to complete with my schedule. LOL
Just thought Id toss up an update.
what size was that batting helmet again?
I wanted to thank WOF, I used his Templates, so I figured the best way would be to show my progress on my scratch built. I have been lurking here for a while and have never really tried anything like this. so her goes.
I built the dome part by laying glass over my old Kevlar helmet, covered with a trash bag, It's thin but quite strong. I messed up a couple gluings so it's a bit on the messy side. It's rough but a start. I didn't make it deep enough, so I will make a new one after I get this one put together, so I can understand the structure a little better.
It's not a bad shape and if I get a better depth on my next try, it might be acceptable for my second attempt. It's almost dead on dimensions given in the templates.
In any case I will continue to work on it as I am able.
well, i'm on hold till i get some money together. thanks to school i haven't had a paycheck in a couple months, so as much as i'd like to go Mando, it'll have to wait a little while longer
Well I just printed the templated out to try and get a better grasp of how the angles of the helmet go together and it went so well that I think I'll run up a plastic version and get painting! Thanks for the awesome templates!!!
Hi yall, I am new here, already before I read in this forum a lot, and I am very happy to find you. In the internet I was looking for a good template to make a 3D Boba Helmet, and I found this CAD paper template here. And I must say your template here is a dream wizardofflight ! Great job ! And its even more fun than building it digitally!
In 2,5 hours I had a perfectly shaped Boba Fett helmet !
Look at the dome, it looks great for me. I had no trouble with any pices, it was almost easy to put this together.
A riddle for me is still the band around the helmet from the visor to the back of the helmet. When I will build the band, the cheek bones will be too deep inside the helmet wouldn't they, what you think. Do you have the exact dimensions of this band, specially how thick it is?
See ye later ! Bye, Chris
Beautiful work!! Very glad that they work out so well for you!
As for the thickness of the band it is about 1/16" to 3/32", it is a difficult number to pin down as the thickness is not consistent. Being that it is only about 1/16" it really shouldn't have too much effect on the depth of the cheeks. I would suggest that when you do apply the outer layer that you leave about 1/2" overlap in the cheekbone area so that it can be trimmed to match the cheek's angle. Hope that makes sense.
Can't wait to see more pics. If you have any questions just let me know.
Thank you wizardofflight for your help ! Where is the thickest part of the band, for me it looks like in the back, is that correct?
I hope I can work more on the helmet soon, its fun ! But I am pretty busy in the last time. For sure I will inform you as soon something major has changed.
How far are you with your bucket? How do you build the ears? I plan to sintering them by laser. I have inexpensive "connections" :-)
From where did you take the measurements of your CAD helmet?
It makes absolutely sense to me, good idea !I would suggest that when you do apply the outer layer that you leave about 1/2" overlap in the cheekbone area so that it can be trimmed to match the cheek's angle.
Till later, Chris
I have a question. I am guessing that I see references to WoF's template no less than 5 times a week, probably more. Why aren't they stickied? They are a free resource given to the community and should be a little more prevalent. Just a question, maybe this issue has been addressed before.
Any news yet of a tutorial with these templates, Alan?
First I must say: WOF, you are the man!!!:thumbup
What would we do without you???
For the dome I also use a skater helmet which I bought on eBay for 2.5.
First I thought that the top is too flat but itīs ok, isnīt it?
These photos are made after one coat of resin. There will be 3 or 4 more coats berfore I use fibreglass.
What do you think?
How in Julia's name did I over look this? Very nice templates Wizard!
Here's one for you PDF gurus....I need to enlarge Alan's templates by 107%, but I don't see an option for changing the scale incrimentally on my Adobe print option....how can I do this?
I also have AutoCad 2004 & 2007, and an HP 430-D plotter....can I somehow print them using one of these programs?
Since you are running AutoCAD just send me an e-mail and I will set you up with the CAD files for whatever you need.
got a quick question here, will the 501st let the batting/skating helmet BF helmet in or not, b/c I know they're really picky!
I can't say for sure but I think the 501st is looking for quality regardless of how you got there. Once it is painted who is going to know what it is made of.
P.S. I just noticed that this thread has over 12,000 views, very cool!
If you reverse the way the flat pattern is laid out, the middle of the dome won't want to come to a point. I modified your template so it is stronger in the center. It's not perfect, but I will tweak it later.
I will post pics of my finished cardboard dome using these patterns when I get it done.(these are not complete)
Last edited by dung0beetle; 06-21-2007 at 12:51 AM.
wow, I cant wait to try this out!
Anybody got some tips for making those cheekbones work? I know how they are supposed to go together, but the Sintra is fighting me on this...I can't seem to get the right "depth" of curvature to the upper pieces when I place them on the "step" of the dual lower pieces (they look too shallow)...should I cut them into smaller sections, or use heat to bend them? I'm using the 2 mm sign Sintra...also, should I attach the upper pieces to the helmet mandibles first, and then attach the dual lower pieces? Can anyone suggest any curse words I haven't used yet??
The easiest way I think is to use thinner Sintra. I built the whole helmet with 1mm Sintra, it was easy to cut by regular sissors. And was bendable pretty easily. Late re-inforce the cheeks by double layering with sintra and/or with resin and glass mats.Anybody got some tips for making those cheekbones work?
For glueing I used super glue and Pro Weld. With the superglue I could glue edge on edge by holding it just 5 seconds. That already became extremely firm! After that, put some Pro Weld on the edges, it will melt them together...
Look here are some photos.
I will start a new scratchbuild thread shortly, maybe you can adobt some things. I learned a lot from SD68's scratchbuild thread, look here :
Last edited by digifett; 06-25-2007 at 02:08 AM.
And yeah, SD68's thread has been my bible so far through this whole maddening process!
This is really amazing stuff! even though I just bought an ESB helmet, I plan to use these templates to scratchbuild a white fett helmet eventually.
Thank you so much for your hard work and dedication to the hobby!
Here are some new pic of my scratchbuild helmet using a skater helmet for
Hope you like it.
Thank you Rob! Maybe next weekend I have some time left to write the tutorial. It'll be a lot of work, besides I have to build a bucketplease, post your tutorial/thread as soon as you are able...I'll be eagerly awaiting it
Yesterday I start detailing the cheeks, the photos you saw before was right after glueing and a little bit of sanding.
I think a good way maybe is to cut the 2mm sintra cheeks in ,say 6 pieces. I made 4... You cannot bend the 2mm stuff, so all you have to build is a n-gon. The rest does the putty...
3 Pots ? Thats a lot of work you may have
Wouldn't it make more sense to make a mold then ?
Good work Thomas ! Another Boba made in Germany, Prost !
Last edited by digifett; 06-27-2007 at 01:55 AM.
Tazman...that's nice work you've done there...thanks for posting the pics!
I must make a correction....like you, I'm using the 1mm Sintra also, not the 2mm....after your comment on cutting it with scissors (which I do), I checked it last night with a micrometer...looks like I'm going to take your lead and cut the upper cheeks into 4 to 6 separate pieces, and work them in that way, and use the putty to smooth the seams....BTW, what exactly is "Pro-Weld"? is it something I can get here in the States? Do you have a brand name?
Oh great Rob ! That makes it a lot easier ! "Pro Weld" is an american brand for a special polistyrol glue. (http://www.granddadshobbyshop.com/Ambroid_Pro_Weld.jpg)I must make a correction....like you, I'm using the 1mm Sintra also
I used the name here because most of the "Bucket" builders are from the states. In fact I use the german version "UHU Plast" its about the same. Its a glue which welds the the styrene together. i use it only for bigger glueing areas. But you need to use it with a brush then. See here I have found a picture my gluing stuff is on...
@ Tazman, from where do you will get your visor for the helmet ? Do you have a suggestion. In Germany nobody sales green Visors here... Except one and they are way too expensive !!
I think Iīll buy the visor at eBay! There are three sizes and Ineed the extended size.
By the way: the seller is a member on this board but I canīt remember his name.
I would be fine when you can find the ebay/TDH member
To clarify real quick, Sintra isn't styrene. Sintra is PVC. Beautiful job on that bucket so far. What did you use for the dome? Or did you scratch build that from the WoF plans too. Keep up the progress pics.
Iīve found it! Look at "t-visor.com"
Thanks, Chris...I'll be going down to my local hardware store this afternoon and see if I can find some of the Pro-Weld, or another product that is comparable to it!
Here's a pic or two showing the fit of the cheekbones without having to cut them...these have been taped on; tomorrow I will glue them in and shape them a little better....but hey, Alan's templates are the bomb!
what did you take for the dome?
Yet another skater helmet?
Thank you telling eighteendelta ! And I always thought Sintra is styrene, honestly I never heard the word Sintra before :o. Is it a another brand?To clarify real quick, Sintra isn't styrene. Sintra is PVC. Beautiful job on that bucket so far. What did you use for the dome? Or did you scratch build that from the WoF plans too. Keep up the progress pics.
The dome is also scratch build and of cause with the help of the WoF templates. His work is so great ! I build the dome out of thick paper and laminated it from inside. More will come later
Great job Thomas, thank you !Iīve found it! Look at "t-visor.com"
@ Ghostsoldier Rob
Your lid looks super already! The cheeks are already well shaped ! I don't think you will have any problems to build them with the right glue... But please, when sintra isn't styrene ask your dealer for the right glue then, I am sorry when I have confused you !
I cannot wait to see more from yall !
Last edited by digifett; 06-27-2007 at 01:58 AM.
Been working with these templates in paper for the moment and I notced that a some peoples upper cheek pieces have a definate fold running diagonally at about 45 degrees from the top corner to the middle whilst some don't. Is there any reason for this? Is there supposed to be a fold?
Sintra is the trade name held by Alcan Composites for thier proprietary rigid foam, closed cell, PVC board. You can find rigid foam, closed cell, PVC board by other names in Europe, for example 'foam PVC' in the UK from these people...
I don't know any suppliers in Germany or I would include those. I hope that helps.
Last edited by eighteendelta; 06-27-2007 at 09:22 AM. Reason: so as not to double post then a messed up link
Eighteen the link you posted is for a product usually known in the UK as "foamex" It is basically two thin sheets of glossy card sandwitching a layer of high density polystyrene foam. It's hell to work with and doesen't bend easily. The site you posted had this however - http://www.signwholesale.co.uk/acata...m_Pvc_3mm.html
This sound like the right stuff.
This is the foam-x
Somehow the URL and the hyperlink didn't match, my mistake, strange....
Thanks, it's been fixed.
Yes I know this stuff, in Germany we have "Forex" that is also foamed sign PVC. Sounds almost equal to UK's "foamex"I don't know any suppliers in Germany or I would include those. I hope that helps.
I used that stuff only for signs. For me its too stiff.
I've bought my styrene in a special model shop so I think it should be styrene than?
Yeah, I had the some problem here before, maybe a little bug in the forum system?Somehow the URL and the hyperlink didn't match, my mistake, strange....
Yes, there is, because of the plastic is much stiffer than paper, so the easiest way is to make cut at the most stressed areas. This corner is a real pain without beeing cut. After cutting you have to use putty to make it smooth again.Been working with these templates in paper for the moment and I notced that a some peoples upper cheek pieces have a definate fold running diagonally at about 45 degrees from the top corner to the middle whilst some don't. Is there any reason for this? Is there supposed to be a fold?
In the pictures you saw my helmet before, that was without the smoothed corners. Tomorrow I will have pictures of my bucket olmost done in its shape.
Sintra seems to be the dominant market name for foam pvc in the US (like Sellotape) but there are a few other brands available in the rest of the world. This company in the UK stocks a good brand called Foamalux - http://www.westwardplastics.co.uk/s_foamalux.php
A quick google search for "pvc foam board" will give you some sources in your area.
from solarbotics.net - "Note that when you're shopping for PVC foam board, you need to make sure you are not getting Fome-CorŪ, a.k.a. "foam core," which is much softer, and essentially just paper-faced styrofoam." Taht's the stuff I mentioned earlier.
A good guide to PVC foam boards - http://www.solarbotics.net/starting/...07_sintra.html
Thanks Digifett! Was thinking I had missed something important there!
News from my scratchbuild:
After a coat of primer
and airbrushing (the killstripes are painted)
Iīm beginning with the stencils.
They are a mix of painting and scatching.
How is it so far?
Criticism is really welcome!!!
Lookin' sweet, Thomas!
Just wanted to jump in and say I've started assembling my bucket from these plans. Not very far along yet. Still have to cut out the cheeks and insert the inset pieces. I used the plans as they were, just a tad small for full size perhaps... but I'm not very big myself, and if I want to wear the thing then I will pro'ly stick with this size. Maybe, if I get brave, I'll make a second one a little larger. Who knows.
Hope mine turns out as nicely as all these ones are coming along.
Now I gotta find something to use for the dome. I have something on hand, but I would have to alter it. I'll look around a bit more before I cut it up.
Well, no dome yet, but I had just enough resin left from my Vader project to coat the inside/outside of my construction. The main part of the helmet is bristol board (poster board - whatever), while the top and bottom rims are a much thicker and stronger cardboard - think of the stuff they use for backing on a really sturdy watercolor painting pad. The flat parts of the cheeks are also a heavier card than the rest of it. Looks kinda gloppy, but once it's fully set up I can start sanding it down and smoothing it out.
I'm thinking it's Boba for halloween this year.
Last edited by Gypsyboy; 07-04-2007 at 02:24 PM.
I have just updated the first post to include the Flat patterns for the "ears".
Everyone has done such a fantastic job with their build it has been a real pleasure talking with you all. Please keep up the great work.
Thanks for the update Alan!
They are awesome:thumbup:thumbup:thumbup:thumbup:thumbup
Alan...thanks for those awesome ear templates! I was dreading to make these things scratchbuilt (which is my next step), but these patterns just made that job 150% easier! Now I'm looking forward to it!
Your fast Tazman, wow, what colors did you use ?? Was it all brushed by paintbrush or did you also use an airbrush?
@ Alan, great those flat templates are perfect, I will use them pretty soon ! Thank you and SD68 we have them!!
I think about starting a very detailed tutorial soon, of how to build a Bucket using your fantastic templates Alan. I am already pretty far with my lid and I probebly had a different way to use your templates. What about making this tutorial a little together, comparing the one and the other way ? I don't want to put a pressure on you, I am a very busy man a you maybe to, we can take us a lot time. What do you think ???
See here the first helemet I've tried was made from flower and 14 eggs ! Did taste pretty rusty...
Whatīs that, Chris?
Most of the colour is airbrushed.
Only the very small parts are paintbrushed incl. the killstripes.
The little scratches are scratched
I used following colours:
1790E Chrome silver FS17178 - primer and bare metal
2097 Panzer olivegreen RLM 83 - dome and cheeks
2737E grey primer - grey around scratches
2009 British crimson - mandibles
2063 RAF trainer yellow - killstripes
1583E Rubber flat - upper cheeks
1742 Dark tan - back of helmet
2083 green RLM 73 - main colour of the backside
Magnesium Metalizer - other bare metal on mandibles
flat clear finish
84 leather brown RAL8024 - spots on mandibles
Thatīs all so far.
The earcaps and RF are in processing.
So I just started my bucket, and it's my first. I figure I'd do a scratch built before I start a good one. I am running into a problem though. This may sound like a dumb question, but what is the inner surface pieces used for?
Hello to TDH, Temp!
The inner surface goes complete around the helmet and is plane with the dome.but what is the inner surface pieces used for?
The outer surface exists only out of the mandibles, the side(ear-)parts and the small stripe.
Hope this will answer your question.
Try member SD68's excellent thread here for how he did it (with pics!), or you can check out my on-going tutorial thread over on the Mandalorian Mercs Star Wars Costuming Club forum...
To those who have used, or plan to use, a skater helmet for your dome... I'm sure many of you know this already, but maybe a newbie might find it interesting. I compared this profile pic of a skater lid http://ak.buy.com/db_assets/prod_ima.../200914436.jpg
to a cutout of the dome profile elevation from WOF's templates and it is spot on! As for size.... dunno, because I don't own one, but the size can be adjusted just like with the batting helmet at the begining of this thread.
I picked up a skater helmet for mine. The only thing that I've noticed from using the templates is that it didn't fit all the way around the helmet, but that shouldn't be a problem to fix.
So I started on my scratch built, and I'm wondering if you guys can tell me how I'm doing. This is my first attempt, and It doesn't need to be perfect, I just want to practice painting for when I get a good helmet.
I'm using some thin cardboard, and a hot glue gun. I've already run into problems causing small gaps (like in the cheek) but I figure once I fiberglass it, It won't be a problem. anyways, here are some pictures.
Temp...lookin' good so far!
Good start Temp...
If your havin probs with gaps in the cheek parts, then try cutting the outer cheek part into three sections, helped me form it better?
Off to a good start, don't stop now.
I think this is a great looking template, but it seems a little small to wear when I print it out. Is this made for smaller heads or something?
Last edited by Jango Fett; 08-05-2007 at 08:48 PM.
Nice Job!! I am having some problems when assembling the form. When I assemle it, the material doesn't form right, it makes more of a point than a curve. I am not sure if it is just the material that I am using, posterboard, is too thick, or I am not fastening it properly at the joints, or some other reason. It would be great if you could help me out! Again, Nice job!!!!
What exactly are you having the issues with FETTMAN? If you give us a more detailed description, then perhaps we'll be able to help you better.
I think he means when he tries to make the curve of the overall helmet, it creases instead of making a natural curve. I'm guessing that is because the material you are using is to hard, or thick.
I don't know if I can explain this right, but I'll try. Try cutting small vertical slits in the material with an X-acto blade, so the material can give a bit instead of creasing. Either that, or use a different material.
If his material is creasing when making the main part of the helmet, I can only think that he's using some type of corrugated material. My helmet ( the one I'm using for an avatar ) is made from 1.5mm thick plastic card, and it didn't kink or fold.
Fettman...do you have any pics of your progress to post?
Guys, I have been away for a while working on other projects. You guys have been busy. There are some great looking helmets being built. I know that folks have been looking for a tutorial on how to use these templates. I can asure you that it is on my list of things to do, but it is going to be a while before I have the time to devote to a full tutorial. Please don't hesitate to ask questions I'll do the best I can to answer them.
Keep up th great work guys!!
Hey, Alan...mucho thanks for what you've done so far...you're dedication to the hobby is unmatched. Don't sweat the tutorial...a few of us have got our own builds and how-to's going, and with the plethora of photo-threads posted and the help available from the fine folks here at TDH and over at the MMCC, that should be enough coverage to show most folks how to use the templates!
I'm more than willing to guide people through constructing one of your helmets, so don't worry too much about writing up a tutorial.
I'm still working on a cardboard version for my son, and it just so happens that I'm at the "making of the ears stage". I'll try to be more diligent and snap pictures as I go.
Thanks guys. I keep refering folks back to the great work you all have been doing. As much as I would like to do a tutorial I just can't seem to find any spare time lately. I haven't even had the chance to work on my own Fett project.
Working on the Fett templates has nearly burned me out. So you might not see me around for a while. I'll continue to answer questions, but it might take a few days for me to get back to you.