I am more interested in seeing how the dome gets put together
I am more interested in seeing how the dome gets put together
Whoa... that is just awesome. If it's not too much trouble, could I ask for a tutorial on this?
The templates are almost complete, I still have a bit more work to do.
P.S I took a shot at converting the helmet templates into a 3D CGI model:
Here is another small update shot with the dome in place. Not totally happy with it yet. I'm thinking that carving it
out of foam and fiberglassing it would be the best way to go, but it can be done.
Last edited by wizardofflight; Oct 7, 2006 at 8:28 PM.
holy dragonslayer sword
that is fantasmal!
I have updated the first post with the final helmet templates.
Yup, yup. The batting helmet seems to be working well. I got the biggest helmet on the market, so I only widened/lengthened mine 1" in each direction.
I'll print up your templates today and see how my bucket measures up. I'll try to post pics, too.
After playing with your PDF files in Photoshop, I found if I enlarge them to 112.7%, my dome bottom fits your template front and back, and side to side. The only real difference I see is in the back. My rear "corners" have a tighter radius than yours, so my dome sits inside your template there. But it's darn close.
Ok. So I was a tad toooo precise in my calculations. 112.7% was a touch too small. I'll make everything 113% and I should be golden. My dome base is 271 mm front to back, and 247.5 side to side.
It's gonna be a big bucket...
Wow! That is going to be a big bucket. For may personal bucket I had to go to 105% to get is so that I have about 1/4" between my nose and the visor.
Please post pics, can't wait to see it.
This is my untrimmed dome.
I'm going with 240mm width and 254mm depth.
The dome cut in quarters (with a little application of heat here and there) fits onto the overhead template for the dome base perfectly.
i was wondering what thickness should be used for each of the main layers, specifically pages 6-7?
Last edited by protoFett; Jan 21, 2006 at 3:17 PM.
I had planned on using .080" thick material for my build. Here is the link to the US Plastic's page:
You can probably get away with .120", but you will have to account for the extra material thickness, you can make the parts a little longer and trim the excess once you have the pieces assembled.
Hope this helps.
Kripps - That is looking goood!! I may just have to give the batting helmet a try myself.
I've been printing templates all weekend and tweaking them. I just can't get them to mate properly with my dome bottom. The flair just isn;t working out for me. I think the problem may be that I am trying to do the back as one half. Then I was going to do the front.
I'm going to regroup, and try a template that wraps around from the front, with a seam in back. I think one piece will be more fogiving when I try to make the front and rear planes striaght, and flair the sides.
I know what you mean when you talk about wrapping the back as one piece. Very hard. I will make my seam at the center rear of the helm.
I plan on attaching a few pieces of small plastic from the inside of the dome to glue the sides to so I don't have to worry about a perfect mate to the base of the dome.
This is trimmed now at what looks to be proper height......side and front profile shots. Looks about right.
well i was wondering since on the backs of the ear you can see the raised section has a certain depth and i was wondering what it was, maybe i need to post picswizardofflight said:
Kripps & kibosh - I would start from the front with the seam in the back. Since we are not working with perfect circles the patterns had to be tweaked quite a bit to match the oblong oval of the dome. So depending on the shape of the dome and the flare things may not match up exactly. The seam in the back will end up being obliterated by the keyslot insert anyway. Sorry, I guess I should have been more specific in the templates.
protoFett - What I had envisioned is that the helmet would be built up in layers. The inner surface goes on first (this surface is exposed in the back of the helmet behind the ears). The outer surface then is laid over the inner surface. Now the area behind the ears for the otter layer is removed once you have it formed to the proper shape. I found it easier to heat shape the plastic first then remove the extra material. Once you cut this area out you can then bond it to the inner surface. For the visor opening, the plan was to cut it out once everything was bonded together
Sorry for all the confusion guys. It looks like I really need to get a tutorial done for these templates. I made too many assumptions and didn't make it clear what my intentions were.
Believe it or not, I assumed correctly how you intended it to go on. I for some reason thought it would be easier to add the ear base and back as a first layer. Clearly not the way to go.
I think one piece will be best, and what you descibed is exactly what I will do. One layer all the way around first. The I'll cut out the cheekbones. Then, wrap a second slightly larger piece around that to form it. Remove second layer, cut out rear section and cheek bones. Attach over first piece. This will give me the raised brow, and raised ear bases.
I think I'll trim the visor slot on the interior piece slightly larger than the exterior one. That will give me a good lip to mount too.
We'll see how it goes!
i am sorry if i am confusing anybody, taking a look at bobamakers helmet detail 5
(if bm has a problem with posting let me know)
i was just curious as to thickness of the outer layer as far as the real helmet. it looks like maybe 1/16 but i could be wrong
for accuracy buffs it may not be too hard to modify the templates to add the "defects"
kibosh - Excellent idea on the visor I'll have to incorporate that in to the tutorial.
protoFett - No, it was my confusion. I missed that detail completely I will update the templates. Thank you. This kind of feedback is great, keeps me honest. The exact thickness is difficult to determine from photos 1/16" (.0625) should work fine, I prefer .080" because it will give me more material for battle damage and sanding and of course mistakes.
PF, are you asking how thick the red base is that the ear pieces get mounted onto? If so, I'm just making mine 3 mm because that's the thickness sintra I have.
Any progress on the tutorial Alan? I'm looking to tackle this, but right now I have a ton of questions as this would be my first helmet buildup. Thanks for the blueprints.
OMG....Alan this is amazing. I'm blown away by what you did here. How would you fiberglass that? i never used fiberglass before...so you smear that on top of it? would bondo work as well?
Sorry things are on hold for the time being. I'm in the middle of going through the adoption of my son.
Please stay tuned.
Outstanding work Alan! Your selfless contributions have helped so many of us and continue to do so! Thanks for sharing your research and hard work!