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[quote=pennywise]Is there "fiberglass" reinforcement?[
/quote]
Yes, i've used three Gel coat layers of alu. resin, backed with two fibre glass tissue layers. this provides a good solid coat on the outside,with a rigid, lightweight and smooth internal surface....
[QUOTE=terminal fettler]WOW! That is very impressive!:drool Nice job!:thumbsupQuote:
Originally Posted by pennywise
OK. Heres the ESB and ROTJ versions with hardware attached. I've got the whole bank holiday weekend to get these painted, wish me luck!
Good Luck Brotha'. Those are some kick arse buckets you got there!
-Carson
unbeliveable... this is the most impressive display of creativity I have seen on these boards... just, wow!
good luck and they look nice!
Eff fiberglass... I want a cold cast bucket! :D
Dayum!
That's one sweeeeet bucket :drool
I am soooo inspired to try one for meself... Picked up a cheap $5 motorcycle helmet at the flea market today, only to have it torn apart for the shell 20 minutes after I got it home... :lol
Can't wait to see the finished product!!! Kudos on a great job thus far :cheers
Those look fantastic!
Please let me know if you decide to start a run of these buckets.
thanks!
I managed to start the ESB colour scheme. I went straight on with art masking fluid on the left cheek, painting out all the silver. Then air brushed on my base grey. Peeled it all off, then masked off the lower cheek, then painted out silver and grey areas. I then air brushed on the green. I repeated this for the upper cheek. Although some of the details are slightly out, its a quick way of working and you can pick out some of the silver scratches with fine grey outlines; these would take hours to paint topicly. This works fine with a couple of colours but im not looking forward to attempting the back!!
i was gonna paint my next helmet this same way and work layer by layer, masking as needed. this helmet would be perfect for that since you are starting with a silver helemet.
since you can mask for the chips, then apply the scratches to the final paintjob (w/o worrying about scratching through the silver) I think the quality of paintjob with this layering technique will be second to none. In easier terms the topical painting should be minimal.
edited for ****** spelling :lol
I've just painted the mandibles and brow using the same layering technique as the cheek. Starting with the grey, then purple and red. Masking the silver first, then spraying grey, i peeled off the liquid mask then painted it back on covering silver and grey areas, then air brushed purple. Leaving the silver and grey mask on, i liquid masked the purple areas, then sprayed the red. This technique gives details i could never achieve with a brush and also a slight releif to the paint which adds to the chipped look.....and no brush marks....
Wow... that looks amazing! I can't wait to see the final product! It's looking incredible! Keep up the great work!
Okay, All I want to know is.......................
WHO ARE YOU???????????:?
Because I'm thoroughly impressed..:thumbup
.......just someone with an itch to scratch.......Quote:
Originally Posted by Spideyfett
LOL!! NEED HELP?;)Quote:
Originally Posted by terminal fettler
Thanks, but its nothing a splash of camomile lotion won't cur:D eQuote:
Originally Posted by Spideyfett
LOL...
seriously, what color's (paints) are you using?
Ah, the paints! Well, they're Humbrol enamels. I'm trying to use stock colours, the only one i've had to custom mix so far is the purple, i love these paints, they're very.....errr, hard wearing...
AAAh nice.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by terminal fettler
Interested to see how you plan to add additional weathering....I mean at what stage you plan to do this?......but so far so WOW...:thumbsup
Yeah I used an entire peel mask on the 2nd MR helmet with great results. We'll see after comic con if it meets approval.
Lee
I plan to weather the helmet after the paint jobs finished. A mixture of additional scratches through the paint layers to the gel coat and non paint based additions to the surface ie Tar and coffee etc...
Sweet...this should be one of the best on this board once complete.Quote:
Originally Posted by terminal fettler
Care to give your exact paint list?;) That or just tell us who you are??..:lol just kiddin.//
Again Great work...and more pics.!!!:suprise
this is some of the most beautiful stuff i've seen done on this board in the time i've been here.
absolutely amazing!
This should be pretty sweet when completed
managed a couple of hours today to air brush the two main colours on the dome and right hand cheek. The scale of some of the scratches appear to be slightly out, this may become less apparent when the contrast is reduced during weathering. I fear i may have to tackle the back... soon...:cry
Man that's just fantastic but can you explain how the heck your patented "back door computer screen" system works?
LOL
BM
Yeah, i just mailed myself a copy and didn't open the envelope....;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Boba Maltz
Man this bucket is looking amazing! I find myself keep coming back to look at this thread
the best bucket I ever see............keep the pictures coming!
dude that looks awesome nice work!!!
TF that looks fantastic.
You know I'm first on the list if you do a run of these.
LOL! No Terminal Fetler what i meant was how does the system work?
You draw it to scale on sheet of glass and then place your original in the distance?
Cheers
I really didn't understand that question did i?:lol
The tracing system just means you can copy outlines straight from a source ie computer screen, and then hold that image over an object, lining up the two outlines by eye, its a very rough guidline but usefull if you dont have the actual object you're modeling in your posession....
I managed to paint the trim around the back of the helmet and the left ear yesterday. The ear was first painted red, light grey and then green with liquid mask between layers. I've also added two scratches on the left mandible, these went straight through the three paint layers to the alu. gel coat and and have a good silver finish...
I've also added the right ear cap with three counter sunk screws, just need to order some magnets for the final piece to snap into place...
Lookin' Sweet!
That's looking amazing! Awesome paint work.
I just had a question about your masking method. Since you're using masking fluid to mask each successive "layer", why do you peel it off and then reapply? Wouldn't it have the same result if you airbrushed your color on, and then just painted on more masking fluid, and then just peeled it all off at once?
Or would the paint get too thick over the original layers of masking fluid?
Hope you know what I mean.
Eric
Yes, the paint gets real thick if you keep layering it on over the liquid mask. Also if you're using three colours and the details are close between those three colours, its very easy to loose your way. On the trim running around the back of the helmet, i tried saving time by leaving on the mask between layers, as a result some of the colours/scratches don't line up; in the longrun its worth peeling off between colours....
Ah! I see. I figured that might be the reason.
In that case, even though it's a little more time-consuming, it looks fantastic the way you're doing it!
Hope to see more progress shots. :thumbsup
Your helmet has been one of my biggest inspirations on my own scratchbuild.
I will not be casting a mold of mine but the cold cast aluminum finish is incredible. Do you have any suggestions as far as paint colors which would simulate the aluminum finish? I would like to try Floquil Bright Silver as the base coat on my own and stick with enamels as opposed to acrylics to avoid any paint pulling mishaps or masking issues. Not because I am opposed to acrylics but I just have more experience with lacquers and enamels thinned with Dio-Sol. I figured the added bite would help avoid any paint mishaps. Do you have any suggestions? Once again thanks for inspiration to build my own bucket and you are a true artist in every sense of the word.
Thanks for that SD! You've just managed to put a smile on my face:D (not an easy task:cry ) Simulating an alloy finish? Personaly, i'm a fan of humbrol 27001 metal cote, a dull silver and when applied at the correct thickness does'nt show brush marks, although best applied with an air brush. The nice thing about these enamals is they are hard wearing so scratching through subsequent layers will give you the desired effect....
Do you have a paint list for the other humbrol enamels? I figure if I'm going to pay shipping I might as well get the rest of the colors I need. By the way, do you buff the metalcote at all or do you just leave the airbrushed finish? What thinner are you using and do you need a black primer underneath to get the best finish? Sorry for all the questions.
No problem SD, i would go for a "mid grey" primer and then your metal cote.This will give a muted alloy sheen, you don't want a polished finished. Leaving this for a couple of days to cure will also give you the toughest finish.The grey i've used for the "base" colour is humbrol no.79, the dome and cheeks are No.120. This colour looks wrong compaired to most other colours used. But when i've looked at the reference images/movie pics it looks close to me. The next layer is over the grey on the mandibles/trim, i've used no.73,an odd sort of red/purple. Between grey and red on the mandibles and side/rear trim. i used no.96 and 73 , 50/50 with black to darken tone. (the back trim was just right, the front not dark enough!)...i'll disclose the other colours as i move to the back of the helmet:) ....( obveously i made an error and you apply the purple before the red) I used humbrol thinners, 50/50 with the paint for airbrushing...Quote:
Originally Posted by SD68
What color did you use for the upper cheek area? Matt Black?
Yeah, its a solid colour, i think during the weathering stages it will tone down and become less harsh...Quote:
Originally Posted by SD68
Heres the right ear with first the grey over silver masked areas, then re-masking and then Humbrol no.94 air brushed on. This colour has come out quite light, but it should tone down with the correct amount of weathering... Now to start masking for the rear...!
Apologies if you're getting tired of these pics, but i'm nearly done:)
The back did go a bit random in places, but overall the scheme seams to work. The only problem was with the light blue which i could not work into the masking scheme, it was just to difficult .This may have to be applied topically....
Great job, looks really nice ! :thumbsup
But the question is: Which Humbrol-color have you taken for the "unsure part" ?
tk2647
:fettesb
TF it looks incredible. The back is just as impressive as the front. What off the shelf humbrol colors were you able to use or did you have to custom mix?
TF you mentioned coffee and tar for a weathering medium. How do you plan on using them to weather the helmet? As overall washes or pinwashes? By the way I never get tired of looking at the photos. Impressive. Most impressive.
I want one of this:cry
great, greatest and more.........
Thanks for the comments, the colours on the back were again humbrol grey no. 79 ( In retrospect this colour is a shade too dark) over the grey went no.23 ( this is too blue, i should have mixed in a smidge of 103, a creamy colour) the light blue would have probably gone on next, but it seemed like too much work! The final green i'm pleaed with and was no.76 and 96 with a smidge more green than blue. With the mask still on i darkened the green with black and ran around the colours perimeter....
Just got my TF bucket last night, the quality is only superseeded by TFs custer service! I will post a full review this weekend with pics showing off its yummy goodness! Later in a few months I will do a paint up thread for it as well. Thanks TF
Light Blue color???Quote:
Originally Posted by terminal fettler
I suppose its almost duck egg blue, appears in random small areas all over the helmet and would have gone on before the base grey, making it the first colour onto the silver. Or is it just me?:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Spideyfett
I'll see if I can pull a pic ...Quote:
Originally Posted by terminal fettler
Thats the helmet painted.(apart from the symbols) All the markings were hand masked to get that slightly wobbly feel( i definately achieved that!) with some non intentional bleed on the kill stripes (oh well) I will now re-buff all exposed alu. to polish it and this will also knock back colour contrast before weathering is applied (i hope)...
:wacko
I see what he is talking about, I think some folks see that to be a sandy type color. Its left a bit unclear on the RS color list. I like the color you used TF, without seeing the bucket in person its hard to say what that color is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spideyfett
Here is a color corrected pic of the back. (as much as could be corrected)
I would venture to say that I feel it is an egg shell color but more of a tan then a blue.
Just looking at the picture on the right Evan, its the colour within the silver, not around it i'm having trouble with, is this what you're referring to? I 'm seeing this as "bluish" still:)
Your correct about that, I use a flint grey. Its a very light greay with a hint of blue in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by terminal fettler
Really the effect that I think is acchived with this color is to give blemishes to that larger sliver cluster on the back. Gives some detail and even some contrast to the silver.
I think as long as its not too blue your golden! :) :thumbsup
I am just reading this thread for the first time! Wow. That is an amazing bucket, and an even cooler journey towards completion, that you've shown us.:cheers
I just have to say that that is one great looking helmet bro!Are you gonna make a Jango to? That would be super cool!
TF, on the left earpiece, is the small strip in the middle recessed and if so how much did you recess it? I am starting my ear pieces and need to know this little detail. In most of the photos it appears to be recessed but I would like to be sure. Any help would be appreciated. Are you going to move on to the ROTJ or are you going to weather the ESB first. I am really interested in your weathering techniques you mentioned earlier such as tar and coffee. By the way the helmet looks absolutely incredible. I can't wait to see what you do with the other version.
Hi SD, the strip on the L/H ear is approx. 2.5mm wide and 2.5mm deep. I'm going to weather this helmet first ; i'm interested in seeing how its going to work too!:)
Simply gorgeous! You are a master! :thumbup
:suprise :drool
(distorted speaking)
EHWWEHWEWHEWEHEWWEH !!!!....(trying to pick up my mandible from the ground)
OK, let's start planning an infiltration to his house and steal this beauty...BLACK-OPS/MISSION IMPOSSIBLE STYLE! :lol
Fantastic work! I BOW BEFORE YOU, LORD ALMIGHTY OF THE SCRATCHBUILT HELMETS !!! :thumbup
Robert :fettesb
Beautiful bucket, TF. Very impressive work!
Yeah lovely work. (I'll not gush :b) I'm about to work a custom helm design and was going to mold cast as well, but I needed to see someone else's work for a mental reference. Thanks so much for the rundown of your process.Quote:
Originally Posted by terminal fettler
I do have a question, I see you have a rubber mold above, within what looks like plaster (or harder casting stone). I would love to know how you did it, in specific, in which order did you cast the silicon, stone and did you use a frame for the stone?
Also.. powered aluminium + gel-coat (+ Fibreglass powder?) I was wondering if you added fibreglass powder to the gel mix for strength. I had occurred to me that it might avoid chipping of the primary layer of gel, though.. the aluminium powder.. I wonder if this has a similar effect.
Finally, when you say 'fibreglass tissue', could you specify what weave and weight you used? It would be a great help.
Again, thank you very much.
-Xeco
Oh.. yah.. one more thing. Can you let me know EXACTLY what micron you bought as far as the aluminum powder goes. Also was it atomized? or Flake?
How much would you say you used overall having made 2 helmets and several other parts.
The more i read about powdered aluminum.. the more I know I'll be mixing it outdoors lest I set my home on fire. *shudder* Metal fires are just insanely hot and I'd be totally knackered if it did catch fire. I assume you had no trouble or concerns about the resin heating with the aluminum powder within? (yes.. I know I seem like I'm nuts at this point).
Also.. what resin fillers did you use other than the metal powder?
-Xeco
Its a very simple process , your master is first painted over with silicone rubber, in the case of my mould, i used a one piece 'skin mould'. This is ok as long as there are no serious undercuts. This leaves no issues with lining up a two piece rubber mould. The jacket is casting plaster reinforced with scrim, its two piece with a join running front to back. I would recommend finding a publication on these processes, or better still, a sculpting supply shop, they will offer the best advice. Also start with casting something small and get the feel for the process as these materials can prove expensive!
Ahhh very cool, Good point about the undercuts, Hmm. I do actually have a book on the subject and come from an artistic family so no trouble there but there is no substiute for visual referance and asking lots of annoying questions, heh. As far as I'm concerned you can do no wrong in my eyes. You clearly know your stuff. Lots of talent, you.
And what of the metal powder? How did you avoid death by kaboom? All the blaring warnings I've read make the stuff sound like old nitro-gycerin. :suprise
Did you buy a lot of powder aluminum? or did a small amount suffice?
-Xeco :zam
You're quite right, under certain conditions, aluminium in powder form, can be very reactive (as can custard powder) but you've just got to be sensible when handling the stuff. The quantity of powder to resin is the key to the best finish; i've found if you load in the powder gradually, it will turn from a smooth mix to then becoming 'grainy' i.e. you start to see some powdery texture. This is the ideal mix.
Oh excelent.. so you did'nt lose any limbs and it doesn't sound as if you went berserk moving it from canister to resin.
Can you tell me what sort of powder size you used? I'm aware it comes in a variety of granular size and to be somewhat consistant can I ask, what size it was? I'd like to get the same.
Also, did you add any other fillers to the resin aside from the aluminum?
-Xeco:zam
Last time i counted i still had... oh, thats not right. DON'T ORDER THE LOBSTER!:lolQuote:
Originally Posted by xeco
Again; you do have to be carefull using these materials.
The powder size is not specified , although it is definately a fine powder and not granular( if that is any help at all, probably not)
i just used alu. powder and resin, specifically GP polyester resin which is more efficient at holding fillers...
GP, is that a UK company? I'm in the states. Is it possible that you could reference the phone numbers, addresses and or web addresses of the companies you bought from? That would sort me right out! Cheers! :loveQuote:
Originally Posted by terminal fettler
(edit) Oh what I'm seeing is "NORPOL GP (gelcoat primer)" So you used Gel-coat exclusively? GP stands for General Purpose? On another page I read it as: General Purpose (GP) Unsaturated Polyester Resin Copolymerization of Unsaturated Polyester Alkyds with Monomers
-Xeco:zam
GP stands for General Purpose, as apposed to, err...Gel Coat resin (not suitable for metal fillers, and there were some others , but it starts to get boring:) ) Alec Tarranti in the uk is a great source of all this stuff, us wise i'm not so sure. So tell us about this custom helmet then... (:zam ?)
Ahh that's what I thought, thanks much.Quote:
Originally Posted by terminal fettler
As far as the custom, nope, not Zam. All you Fetts should know the name, Sintas Vel ;). I've yet to find a good image of her helmeted so, I'm forced to improvise. I'm going to aim for something that takes elements from The Mandolorian, Stormtrooper, and then some of my own design. It's a tricky thing making something from scratch and having it get that Star Wars feel so, I'm going to have a chalenge. on my hands. I did'nt want it to look anything like stuff that had been done. If I was going to do Ailyn Vel I could just do Fett armor and be done with it but.. Sintas is more of a mystery and I thought she would be a lot more fun. :cheering
-Xeco :zam
It would be nice to see some concept drawings ( or etchings:) ) although i've never heard of that character; my next project is probably a custom piece.
Allow me to enlighten you!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by terminal fettler
http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Sintas - Here's the meatiest link on her on the net. She's pictured unarmored here. Well.. not helmeted in any case and very little armor. Seems a foolish way to go about hunting scum so, I'm betting she must have armored up at some point, I might be dodging canon, but, if I remove the bucket, I'm canon again, ha ha.
http://encyclopedia.thefreedictionary.com/Sintas+Vel - This one I have yet to verify but I know she's killed 16 years after her daughter's birth, but from what I'm aware of, Asajj Ventress heads far far away from the core of the galaxy before the events of Ep 3. I'm still doing research, so this link may or may not be true.
Once I get the final design I want the helm to look like, I'll post it. I promise.
-Xeco
So, Slugg Nut is Boba Fett's pet name, not so tough after all eh?:lol
Ahh no no.. she's not aiming that blaster at Boba, just someone she's squeezing for info. But he does apparently have a pet name.. heh, it's 'Bo' and apparently he's pretty soft on Sintas, well.. softer on her than he is on everyone else :lol. Pick up issue 7 of SW: Tales for the full rundown. The story itself is a massive mockery of eBay with lots of 'in-jokes'.Quote:
Originally Posted by terminal fettler
-Xeco
I've just added some weathering at last, no coffee, this didn't work:( (but the tar did:) ) So i started by collecting random sized flints from the garden, these proved usefull for scratching through to the gel coat, because they're awkard to hold, they make unpredictable marks, thus less uniform ( but also difficult to emulate the original!) Then i used a badly adjusted air brush to give mist/splatters in the base grey, then mixed down with a mid brown to do the mandibles and r/h side. I then used this same mix applied with a cotton bud for the rust spots, and flcked over the r/h ear. I found a pea size piece of bitumen, soaked in white spirit and dabbed/ drawn over the kill stripes to recreate the, er, bitumen thats dabbed and drawn over the kill stripes( i'm sure thats what this is) Just the symbols and crack/repair to go...
Looks stellar!!! I especialy love the back.
That is incredible! I bet that sucker looks better in person.
Greaaaaaaaaaat ! Looks really good, you´re a very talented artist !!
Can´t wait to see it finished ! :thumbsup
Finally added the symbols/markings. Using a fine point marker, i drew them on freehand, however the ink dosen't seem to be drying! The crack was dremelled with a compass point, then repaired using car body filler. I think i may still have to add some more weathering...
wow, that looks really good! freehand, eh? you must have a really sure hand.
TF, have you made any more progress on the ROTJ or have you been busy filling orders for your awesome buckets? The servo and ear pieces have slowed me down on my own. I hope to finally have it all in primer in the next week or so.
No sign of the ROTJ yet, i'm going to start another ESB paint job as i think it could be better, thanks for asking:) . It would be nice to see how you fitted in your servo...Quote:
Originally Posted by SD68
TF,
:fettesb Do you happen to know the dimensions for placement of the borden connector in relation to the cheek bottom and the upper cheek. What are the dimensions for the connector itself -OD as well as the drilled holes? Planning on scratchbuilding one and want to be sure on the placement before I drill. Do you have dimensions on the small rectangular indent on left upper cheek also? Last two details I need to add to bucket.:cheering
Hi SD, i used a piece of 10mm tube for the borden, the three holes were guesstimated and were filed until they looked good. As for placement, the best option is to line it up by eye with a scaled ref. pic. until it looks good! ( sorry, not much help really) The slot on the L/H cheekbone is approx 9mmx4mm, its paralell to the line of the mandible and on my sculpt is approx. 5mm from this edge and 75mm from bottom to the base of the mandible(:? ) Oh and watch out for the step in this slot, only obvious in one of the ref. pics!
Thanks TF! I will try to find that reference pic tonight. Getting close.
TF, explain in detail how you achived the coldcast resin effect... I tryed several things last night for casting my coldcast MQ-1 board. It is somewhat cold cast but not like your peices are. There seems to be a trick I am missing, or perhaps its the ammount of metal dust I am using? Not sure.
Here are the variables I tried out:
1. I tried different combinations of the ammounts of metal dust I used (nickel dust) and got some decent results but not quite what I had in mind.
2. I tried it using white resin and clear resin, and pigmenting the clear black as I was told to do by the supplyer.
3. I also tryed mixing it for different amounts of time before pouring it into the mold so as not to let the metal settle in the bottom of the mold.
I really want this to match the cold cast effect of the bucket so any help would be great.
I've found the following recipe works ( however, the type of resin will effect the amount of filler you can add to achieve a brushable/pourable consistantcy, the type of filler determines its %)
50 ml of resin
25 level tsp of alu. filler ( make sure each tsp is actually levelled off)
obveously, weaing a dust mask is advisable...
Mix this thoroughly, leave to stand for 5-10 mins (tap the jug/container to ease any air out)
Add catalyst at recommended % ( a slower set time will mean trapped air can work its way out)
brushing in will also help remove surface air bubbles...
I assume you're using a very fine alu. powder? Something similar to talc?..
Oh, i forgot, what type of resin are you using ?
Smoothcast 300 and Smoothcast 325 (the clear kind)
to fill my mold it needs about 40 ml of resin total. The resin can be demolded in 10 minuts. Forom reading what you were saying... 25 tsp of alum filler is ALOT... I obviously was unable to get alu. dust but I think nickel would be fine to try out.
I will try more powder. Should I get the enire thing to a thick BRUSHABLE density or just one part of the 2 part mix?
O.K. it sounds like the materials we're using are quite different. Back to basics then! if 40ml of resin fills your mould, try 25ml resin, add your filler until it JUST goes grainy, like runny humous, this should be enough to fill your mould. You can always add too much filler , then slightly dilute with resin, the key is to get as much filler in as possible, but so you can still brush into the mould. The gel time sounds quite fast, whats the recommended catalyst %?
its 100%A/100%B
Basicly equil parts... I think that is my issue. I was afraid that it wouldnt cure if there was to much dust in there so I didnt put near the ammount your talking about.
As far as i'm aware, filler doesn't adversly affect cure time. Some resins are more capable of excepting greater quantities of filler, i'm using general purpose polyester resin for this reason...