ASOK CC ESB build

dinkydarth

New Hunter
Just started one of these. Will be needing lots of help for this one, as it's my first time!
IMG_4238.JPG
Main issue now is getting the right thickness along the T Visor opening.
IMG_4240.JPG
 
Good work so far! I might say that the thickness around the t-visor is just fine, there's no need to alter it. Before preparing the helmet to paint, don't forget to add all the physical damages presented in my ESB Stencils thread (the end of the first post). The best way is to use the stencils as a guide (along with reference images from the Gallery) and after a quick size matching between the helmet and the stencil, you can trace the position of the physical damage, then using a dremel or a triangular file, you can add each damage to your helmet.
 
Good work so far! I might say that the thickness around the t-visor is just fine, there's no need to alter it. Before preparing the helmet to paint, don't forget to add all the physical damages presented in my ESB Stencils thread (the end of the first post). The best way is to use the stencils as a guide (along with reference images from the Gallery) and after a quick size matching between the helmet and the stencil, you can trace the position of the physical damage, then using a dremel or a triangular file, you can add each damage to your helmet.


thanks...
Yes, I think the thickness is ok, but the tricky part is getting the thickness consistent throught the whole T visor section. especially at the lateral corners. I guess the originals had some variation to the thickness at different points right?

I'm also a little anxious about getting a good fit between the T visor and the helmet. Did the original have gaps, or did they sit quite flush to the helmet. I've studied the gallery pics and I think at points they had 0.5-1mm gaps?
 
fett%u00252520003.JPG

fett%u00252520002.JPG

fett%u00252520001.JPG

more progress. Is it really necessary to remove each layer of masking fluid before doing the next layer? I find myself remasking the previous bits anyway!
 
the way i do it... is remove it. I do this because Although you can use a stencil...it may not be perfectly aligned to the helmet. and you may have paint that doesnt stick...so you may end up painting 5 layers on the back of the helmet, only to start unmasking and a whole patch comes off. Or you need to redo a panel because you overlapped something you missed. Thats just me though Ive seen people leave it. For ROTJ which is primarily what I paint for people, I will mask and leave it and then mask again but only because its a mist layer that I can see the fluid pretty well. But ESB the layers build up and up and up...the fluid would be pretty thick.
 
Yes, masking & remasking. Multiple layers of paint make it really hard to determine where the previous masking was and remove (from experience!). It's a pain for sure, but ultimately is easier in the end (and you'll find that masking works for the larger areas, and you can go back and add finer details topically).

Yours is coming along really well -- look forward to seeing more progress!
 
That dome looks awesome! The only way to remove the white line it to apply paint with a small, fine brush. Keep up the great work!
 
Looking good, Dink! YMMV, but I've had some success in removing the transfer paper lines by tapping the surface with a kneadable eraser. For the stubborn ones, you'll need to paint over, like Raf said.
 
thanks guys, for the tips.
I'm starting to think my dome green is too green. I did match my tamiya paints to the recommended humbrol colour and it was spot on after I mixed it. I'm hoping it was a result of my yellow tungsten lights, otherwise, I'll have to remask and spray :(
 
I've decided to repaint the green on the dome and lower cheeks. Going to go with Humbrol 78 enamel over the existing Tamiya Acrylic. Done Enamel over acrylic before and no problems in the past. Just not happy with the paint mix.
 
This thread is more than 10 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top