Good work so far! I might say that the thickness around the t-visor is just fine, there's no need to alter it. Before preparing the helmet to paint, don't forget to add all the physical damages presented in my ESB Stencils thread (the end of the first post). The best way is to use the stencils as a guide (along with reference images from the Gallery) and after a quick size matching between the helmet and the stencil, you can trace the position of the physical damage, then using a dremel or a triangular file, you can add each damage to your helmet.
Yes, I think the thickness is ok, but the tricky part is getting the thickness consistent throught the whole T visor section. especially at the lateral corners. I guess the originals had some variation to the thickness at different points right?
I'm also a little anxious about getting a good fit between the T visor and the helmet. Did the original have gaps, or did they sit quite flush to the helmet. I've studied the gallery pics and I think at points they had 0.5-1mm gaps?
Last edited by dinkydarth; Sep 5, 2012 at 5:59 PM.
Yes, it is!
how did you affix the bolts and what size threaded bolt did you use?
the way i do it... is remove it. I do this because Although you can use a stencil...it may not be perfectly aligned to the helmet. and you may have paint that doesnt stick...so you may end up painting 5 layers on the back of the helmet, only to start unmasking and a whole patch comes off. Or you need to redo a panel because you overlapped something you missed. Thats just me though Ive seen people leave it. For ROTJ which is primarily what I paint for people, I will mask and leave it and then mask again but only because its a mist layer that I can see the fluid pretty well. But ESB the layers build up and up and up...the fluid would be pretty thick.
thanks, that makes sense. I wonder how it was originally done?
Yes, masking & remasking. Multiple layers of paint make it really hard to determine where the previous masking was and remove (from experience!). It's a pain for sure, but ultimately is easier in the end (and you'll find that masking works for the larger areas, and you can go back and add finer details topically).
Yours is coming along really well -- look forward to seeing more progress!
all good things take time, and it looks like yours is coming along nice!
That dome looks awesome! The only way to remove the white line it to apply paint with a small, fine brush. Keep up the great work!
Looking good, Dink! YMMV, but I've had some success in removing the transfer paper lines by tapping the surface with a kneadable eraser. For the stubborn ones, you'll need to paint over, like Raf said.
thanks guys, for the tips.
I'm starting to think my dome green is too green. I did match my tamiya paints to the recommended humbrol colour and it was spot on after I mixed it. I'm hoping it was a result of my yellow tungsten lights, otherwise, I'll have to remask and spray
I've decided to repaint the green on the dome and lower cheeks. Going to go with Humbrol 78 enamel over the existing Tamiya Acrylic. Done Enamel over acrylic before and no problems in the past. Just not happy with the paint mix.
It looks much better with the new base color. Keep up the great work!
some more progress, slow.
I've decided to switch over to using humbrols for the final layers of this bucket. Save myself some time and hassle trying to mix up the tamiya's. Besides the humbrols seem to work better with the liquid mask. The masks tend to peel off better, leaving a more accurate result.
I've had no problems using the humbrol enamel over the tamiya acrylic base... so far...
Wow! Looks fantastic dinkydarth! I hope mine comes out this nice! Keep up the great work!!
minor hitch- mixed up humbrol enamels for the left ear and it doesn't seem to be drying too quickly, even after 48 hours... must have not stirred the paint well enough.... will have to wait a little longer for it to completely dry out.
Anyone had the same issue with humbrol enamels?
Others with more experience may chime in, but for me, when the enamels take a while to dry it was usually due to heat/humidity and/or applying too much paint at once (which could also be the case with paint that isn't thinned well enough).
Here in the States (in Austin, TX), painting during our summer months was killer, as I didn't have a temperature controlled environment to work in and had to paint at the whim of whatever the weather was on a given day. Given the heat here, there were a number of days where the heat kept me from painting altogether.
I know you're creeping into your summer there, but is it anywhere near the 30s yet?