Looks really cool!
I think that casting the cheek detail in resin and a clean face plate would be better. This would give more options and also for those whom would do a Jango.
Just my 2-cents.
Bradley - those look great!
Nice R5 in the background too!
Mr. Steely-Eyed Missile Man,
I agree, leaving off the Borden connector and offering it as an optional part is a great idea.
Also, what thickness is the material used? Lastly, what is your favorite tool of choice to cut this material?
When I pulled a few suits of Trooper with a Garrison-mate a while back, we just used a Xacto knife to cut the ABS/HIPS, worked like a charm.
I agree about leaving the Bordon off- I'm going to sand it off today. I'm also removing the part that holds the Range Finder stalk to mold that as a seperate piece.
The material is .080" Styrene- just like all the other Fett armor I do.
My favorite tool of choice is the standard-issue Xacto knife with no. 11 blade. From there, a little clean up with a Dremel here and there would be in order.
Thanks for the compliments on the R5. I've programmed him to do all my vacuforming- I just make the molds.
Looks pretty good However I'd recommend that the molex connector be a resin greeblie instead of being on the buck, you lose a lot of detail.
Just asking, will you be doing both dented and non-dented crowns? It's not much of an issue for me, I can fill in the dent, it'll just make things easier if we can get a non-dented version of the crown.
Hey, Bradley, count me in as interested!
Excellent pulls, my friend.
This is a question for any who may know...would it add too much weight to the bucket or fundamentally change the interior dimensions to add a layer or two of fiberglass to strengthen the plastic? Would it even stick?
Right now I'm just going to offer the undented crown and let folks put in their own dent for a "Boba" bucket. From the feedback I've gotten, most folks who would want one of these are going to do custom Mandos anyway.
There are a number of things you can do to reinforce the plastic, including epoxy putty. However. I think you'd be surprised at how strong a .080" thick styrene helmet is to begin with once its assembled. I would recommend reinforcing around the seams mainly with something like Devcon Plastic Welder.
Fiberglass on plastic can be tricky too- it tends to head up as it cures, sometimes melting the plastic.
Below is a pic of what will be in the final 'kit':
The only thing not included with the kit to do a complete helmet is the rangefinder stalk. I will, however, provide a template so you can cut one out of 1/4" material of your choice.
I'll also include some strips of styrene to aid in joining the front and back halves under the ears.
Very Nice!!! My brother and I are working on Boba and Jango and we'll definately be getting one from you
And this is $75 per helmet, correct? With it costing $65 for each additional helmet ordered at the same time?
Very nice work Mark...