Aluminum Stalk Mounting

Does anyone have any recommendations on how to attach an aluminum stalk to the helmet? I have an Asok lid to where the ear piece sits flush with the width of the stalk itself, not accommodating any room for a bolt head. Even if I could mount it with a standard nut and bolt, raising and lowering the stalk eventually loosens the nut to where the stalk itself won't stay up.

Thoughts? (Picture references appreciated)

- Mike
 
Could you use Chicago screws and just countersink them (with a forsner bit) a little so the sides are flush? Those would not loosen since the outer tube housing would essentially just be a rod.
 
You could drill a hole thru the stalk and helmet and countersink the screw head on the stalk. Maybe with a 1/8" screw? Just have to use washers including a lock waster to keep a little tension on the nut so it doesn't loosen. Also would need to make sure the rotation path was free and clear between the stalk and ear pieces.
 
Ok, this is probably the best I can do with pics since I have not done it yet, and do not have the right sized Chicago screws. Hopefully you can picture it. The one end of the Chicago screw (housing part) would need to be glued into the area where the resin has been removed. If you are drilling that yourself make sure not to go all the way through obviously. Then you basically would attach the stalk with the other end of the screw. If you find one small enough that would work you could countersink it into the stalk. If not you could remove some material from the other side of the ear piece so it sits flush. I am sure there are also other way that will work. Hope this is helpful.
20150215_135512_zpsjqs8tp4b.jpg


20150215_135541_zpsoc3avst1.jpg
 
Actually it would probably work best if the one end went all the way through the helmet for a better attachment, and then you do not need to worry about the countersinking part on the stock or other end of the earpiece.
 
You could drill a hole thru the stalk and helmet and countersink the screw head on the stalk. Maybe with a 1/8" screw? Just have to use washers including a lock waster to keep a little tension on the nut so it doesn't loosen. Also would need to make sure the rotation path was free and clear between the stalk and ear pieces.

I'll see about picking up some lock washers. Thanks for the input.

- - - Updated - - -

Ok, this is probably the best I can do with pics since I have not done it yet, and do not have the right sized Chicago screws. Hopefully you can picture it. The one end of the Chicago screw (housing part) would need to be glued into the area where the resin has been removed. If you are drilling that yourself make sure not to go all the way through obviously. Then you basically would attach the stalk with the other end of the screw. If you find one small enough that would work you could countersink it into the stalk. If not you could remove some material from the other side of the ear piece so it sits flush. I am sure there are also other way that will work. Hope this is helpful.
20150215_135512_zpsjqs8tp4b.jpg


20150215_135541_zpsoc3avst1.jpg

Thanks for the photos! That helps a lot. I'm thinking this is probably the way I need to go.

- - - Updated - - -

Hi Mike,
Here's one of my older threads showing a similar method:

http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f23/superjedi-gmh-pp2-45496/?highlight=ear,+attachment

Check out post #21. The bolt I epoxy into the ear acts as a pivot for the stalk. If you use a little
of the non-permanent type of thread lock on the nut inside the helmet, it won't loosen up.

You and Duder seem to be on similar tracks. I thought I could do it without drilling in to my ear cap, but it doesn't look like that is going to be the case.
 
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I just countersunk the stalk and put a flat head phillips screw with a nut with the nylon lock on it. It will not come loose unless you want it too.
 
Hey there. They make this stuff called lock tight. It is used on bolts that are on all playground equipment. It keeps the bolt and nut together and will not loosen over time. Similar to a lock nut but lock nuts are easy to strip. Hope that helps in some way.
 
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