DeathProof
Active Hunter
Great job on the belt! it's definitely tedious but well worth it. I don't think the ESB belt is weathered as much. Just a light sand I would think should do it. Looking forward to you suiting up!
WIP - ESB Fett a rapidly expanding project
- Thread starter Bounty1138
- Start date
Bounty1138
Active Hunter
So, after re-attaching the gauntlet rocket, I did a fitting tonight.
I still need to attach the cables/cords to the back of the flamethrower and the gauntlet, but that's the last item on my to-do list before the photo shoot for my 501st submission pics.
After more than 2.5 years at this hobby, I can cross off every line item in the Boba ESB CRL for level 1 (with the lone exception mentioned above). I'm not that far off level 2 (at least as far as line items go, but first things first).
I know there is more to being certified than checking off items on a list. This is where you come in.
The photos I took tonight were indoors and color is pretty hard to determine with (mixed and inconsistent) indoor lighting. So to start, here are a couple of photos from a recent outdoor event. This was before I made improvement to the gauntlets, the jetpack beacon and the rangefinder and stalk. I was also toting my repainted Hasbro RoTJ EE-3, but these pics are better for determining colors. I've also since fixed the drooping knee armour.
So, here are the pics from tonight. I tried adjust them a bit for the lighting, but you can see how everything fits and goes together.
Lastly, here is a close up of my gauntlets.
What do you think? What do i need to improve/tweak/change to get certified (or beyond)? What should I adjust? Let me know. Thanks
I still need to attach the cables/cords to the back of the flamethrower and the gauntlet, but that's the last item on my to-do list before the photo shoot for my 501st submission pics.
After more than 2.5 years at this hobby, I can cross off every line item in the Boba ESB CRL for level 1 (with the lone exception mentioned above). I'm not that far off level 2 (at least as far as line items go, but first things first).
I know there is more to being certified than checking off items on a list. This is where you come in.
The photos I took tonight were indoors and color is pretty hard to determine with (mixed and inconsistent) indoor lighting. So to start, here are a couple of photos from a recent outdoor event. This was before I made improvement to the gauntlets, the jetpack beacon and the rangefinder and stalk. I was also toting my repainted Hasbro RoTJ EE-3, but these pics are better for determining colors. I've also since fixed the drooping knee armour.
So, here are the pics from tonight. I tried adjust them a bit for the lighting, but you can see how everything fits and goes together.
Lastly, here is a close up of my gauntlets.
What do you think? What do i need to improve/tweak/change to get certified (or beyond)? What should I adjust? Let me know. Thanks
Last edited by a moderator:
jbdubz
Active Hunter
looking good dude 
only things i'd say to adjust...
-dirty up the flight suit some more, weather the sleeves and have the back match the front and hit those ankle straps as well.
-weather the vest a just a bit, seems pretty new looking
-dirty up the soles of the boots and spikes a bit.
-weather the thong and knee armor straps, (left knee strap not as much as the other two straps)
-heat mold the knee armor to fit your knees a bit better.
-bring your jetpack up an inch or two, a little too much white strapping showing from the back
-tuck the gauntlet hose into the short sleeve of the flight suit, not just under the armor.
-looks like that right pocket is a bit stuffed under the ammo belt. they should sit at the same length
-your snap pockets on the ammo belt are out of sequence. the set of pockets on your left, the first pocket should have the snap. also, that same side should have the 4 pouches and 3 on the other.
-on the back of the ammo belt, there should only be 2 grommets for ESB rather than 6. not sure how strict your GML will be but the CRL calls for only 2 on the back.
-try to set the cape so it falls seam-side in so that the sewn together fabrics don't look so, sewn together [emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]
honestly i think you did a great job. feels good doesn't it? just a couple easy adjustments and you shouldn't have any issues. good luck bro!
Sent from my R2 unit
only things i'd say to adjust...
-dirty up the flight suit some more, weather the sleeves and have the back match the front and hit those ankle straps as well.
-weather the vest a just a bit, seems pretty new looking
-dirty up the soles of the boots and spikes a bit.
-weather the thong and knee armor straps, (left knee strap not as much as the other two straps)
-heat mold the knee armor to fit your knees a bit better.
-bring your jetpack up an inch or two, a little too much white strapping showing from the back
-tuck the gauntlet hose into the short sleeve of the flight suit, not just under the armor.
-looks like that right pocket is a bit stuffed under the ammo belt. they should sit at the same length
-your snap pockets on the ammo belt are out of sequence. the set of pockets on your left, the first pocket should have the snap. also, that same side should have the 4 pouches and 3 on the other.
-on the back of the ammo belt, there should only be 2 grommets for ESB rather than 6. not sure how strict your GML will be but the CRL calls for only 2 on the back.
-try to set the cape so it falls seam-side in so that the sewn together fabrics don't look so, sewn together [emoji16][emoji16][emoji16]
honestly i think you did a great job. feels good doesn't it? just a couple easy adjustments and you shouldn't have any issues. good luck bro!
Sent from my R2 unit
Last edited by a moderator:
DeathProof
Active Hunter
Nicely done!!!
I agree with Jeremy's suggestions, but I think you're good for your photos this weekend. There will always be little things to tweak here and there. All the best with your submission!
I agree with Jeremy's suggestions, but I think you're good for your photos this weekend. There will always be little things to tweak here and there. All the best with your submission!
Bounty1138
Active Hunter
Thanks Gentlemen. It's much appreciated. It's nice to make it this far.
I definitely agree on the weathering. More is good and a dirty Boba is a happy Boba.
I'll also try those other tweaks. Not sure what happened to the hose. It was up the sleeve when i started
Dang ammo belt. I had boxes in the reverse order yesterday and managed to put the last one on the wrong side today :facepalm
I also noticed that about the knee armor. I fixed the tilt, but it doesn't seem to fit tight enough. i was going to look up how to fix that without damaging the paint. I'd like to get that done before the weekend. Any tips for heat molding?
I definitely agree on the weathering. More is good and a dirty Boba is a happy Boba.
I'll also try those other tweaks. Not sure what happened to the hose. It was up the sleeve when i started
Dang ammo belt. I had boxes in the reverse order yesterday and managed to put the last one on the wrong side today :facepalm
I also noticed that about the knee armor. I fixed the tilt, but it doesn't seem to fit tight enough. i was going to look up how to fix that without damaging the paint. I'd like to get that done before the weekend. Any tips for heat molding?
DeathProof
Active Hunter
Since I don't have an actual heat gun, I've used my partner's hair dryer to mold plastic. Worked fairly well. I might also suggest to change where the elastics connect - that might help with the bend. I have fairly short elastics and they connect with snaps to the ends of the knees. This helps keep a good bend.
jbdubz
Active Hunter
yeah, those grommets may pose an issue but if you just flip the belt around, remove any velcro and punch two grommets through on the blank side, you should be able to save some $ instead of having to replace it.
if you don't have a heat gun at your disposal, pretty sure if you get a hair dryer on hight heat you should be able to mold them, just may take a bit longer. just make sure to heat from the inside and mold them slowly!
Sent from my R2 unit
if you don't have a heat gun at your disposal, pretty sure if you get a hair dryer on hight heat you should be able to mold them, just may take a bit longer. just make sure to heat from the inside and mold them slowly!
Sent from my R2 unit
Bounty1138
Active Hunter
Thanks guys. I'll try the hair dryer tonight. I also think I'll swap out the velcro on the knee armor for snaps, but probably won't get that done this week. A tighter fit makes sense.
As for the grommets, I might try re-applying the leather/vinyl spray. The grommets were almost invisible after I sprayed the belt and I used mineral spirits to clean them off and make them shiny brass again. If I apply the spray again, I can just leave the proper 2 shiny and visible and the rest will blend in. Hopefully that will work well enough.
As for the grommets, I might try re-applying the leather/vinyl spray. The grommets were almost invisible after I sprayed the belt and I used mineral spirits to clean them off and make them shiny brass again. If I apply the spray again, I can just leave the proper 2 shiny and visible and the rest will blend in. Hopefully that will work well enough.
Bounty1138
Active Hunter
I'm happy to announce that I was officially approved for the 501st today.
I'm now BH - 11838.
Here are a few of my submission pics. There are a few minor fitting tweaks to be made, but I'm happy with how they turned out.
Thanks to the many people on TDH that helped me get his far. It's been almost 3 years since i first thought about upgrading my budget homemade Fett and started poking around the internet for resources.
Of course, I'm not done. There are still found parts to find and upgrades to be made.
I'm still always looking for feedback and ways to improve.
I'm now BH - 11838.
Here are a few of my submission pics. There are a few minor fitting tweaks to be made, but I'm happy with how they turned out.
Thanks to the many people on TDH that helped me get his far. It's been almost 3 years since i first thought about upgrading my budget homemade Fett and started poking around the internet for resources.
Of course, I'm not done. There are still found parts to find and upgrades to be made.
I'm still always looking for feedback and ways to improve.
Fett Seven
Active Hunter
Congratulations on your 501st approval Bradley!
NemesisCustoms
Jr Hunter
Great looking Fett! Congatulations
Gesendet von meinem D6603 mit Tapatalk
Gesendet von meinem D6603 mit Tapatalk
Bounty1138
Active Hunter
So, I've got a question, I'm very slowly working on my ESB EE-3 kit from MLS and I'm wondering about the positioning of the center stock greeblie.
This great pic posted by @RafalFett shows how it rotated positions throughout the movie.
On my Fett, I currently have the top of the far right shoulder stud painted red and the far left shoulder stud painted grey (as per level 2 of the 501st Boba CRL). As the studs also move around in the movie, I believe this particular configuration is from the hallway scenes on Bespin.
From RafalFett's photos, the pic of the centre stock greeblie in the flipped "C" configuration (center top image) also appears to be from the Bespin hallway scene (or promo shots in the hallway).
So, my long winded and heavily set up question is this:
With my current shoulder stud set up and in keeping with the theme of that scene, should I position the greeblie as seen in that top middle pic for consistency or am I just overthinking this?
Most builds I've seen just have it in the final position.
This great pic posted by @RafalFett shows how it rotated positions throughout the movie.
On my Fett, I currently have the top of the far right shoulder stud painted red and the far left shoulder stud painted grey (as per level 2 of the 501st Boba CRL). As the studs also move around in the movie, I believe this particular configuration is from the hallway scenes on Bespin.
From RafalFett's photos, the pic of the centre stock greeblie in the flipped "C" configuration (center top image) also appears to be from the Bespin hallway scene (or promo shots in the hallway).
So, my long winded and heavily set up question is this:
With my current shoulder stud set up and in keeping with the theme of that scene, should I position the greeblie as seen in that top middle pic for consistency or am I just overthinking this?
Most builds I've seen just have it in the final position.
Last edited by a moderator:
RafalFett
Well-Known Hunter
If you strive for ultra-nut accuracy then go with the movie/publicity configurations, which most of the people won't notice or won't care (for each and every detail). Do whatever makes you happy.
Bounty1138
Active Hunter
Thanks RafalFett. I was half checking if my reasoning about the shoulder stud and rotated right centre greeblie combination was correct, as well as just gauging opinions. At the end of the day, this hobby should be all about doing what makes you happy. If not, why the hell are you going through all this effort and expense?
Do you or anyone else have an opinion in the placement of the center greeblie on other side of the stock? Should i just have same the orientation? It's my understanding that we don't know much about that side.
These pics are as close as I came to seeing what the other side looks like and it definitely doesn't show the orientation. About the only thing it shows is that the greeblies on both sides are somewhat offset.
Are there reference photos I'm missing?
Do you or anyone else have an opinion in the placement of the center greeblie on other side of the stock? Should i just have same the orientation? It's my understanding that we don't know much about that side.
These pics are as close as I came to seeing what the other side looks like and it definitely doesn't show the orientation. About the only thing it shows is that the greeblies on both sides are somewhat offset.
Are there reference photos I'm missing?
Last edited by a moderator:
Bounty1138
Active Hunter
Thanks. I probably stole those images from one of your threads
Last edited by a moderator:
Bounty1138
Active Hunter
I'm much overdue on an update to this thread. I've been working on my MLS EE-3 and I'm almost done, so I wanted to share my progress to date.
I had first bought the kit about a year ago. I was slowly working on it and making some progress.
I completed the stock and had painted a number of the other pieces.
It was about then that I decided that I wanted to add lights and sound. I took the electronics out of a Hasbro ROTJ EE-3 that I had repainted and was using temporarily.
This is what it looks like extracted from the toy blaster.
I knew i wanted my blaster to open like the flare gun and was trying to sort out how I was going make that work, when this happened. Doh.
This actually worked out for the best because when i ordered a replacement part, Matt included a separate trigger and trigger guard from an older cast.
I started by drilling out the solid resin barrel.
I also dremelled out the receiver with the initial plan of placing the electronic board in there and somehow figuring out how to make it fire.
I'll give another update soon. Wow these photos are big, when I import them from Imgur
I had first bought the kit about a year ago. I was slowly working on it and making some progress.
I completed the stock and had painted a number of the other pieces.
It was about then that I decided that I wanted to add lights and sound. I took the electronics out of a Hasbro ROTJ EE-3 that I had repainted and was using temporarily.
This is what it looks like extracted from the toy blaster.
I knew i wanted my blaster to open like the flare gun and was trying to sort out how I was going make that work, when this happened. Doh.
This actually worked out for the best because when i ordered a replacement part, Matt included a separate trigger and trigger guard from an older cast.
I started by drilling out the solid resin barrel.
I also dremelled out the receiver with the initial plan of placing the electronic board in there and somehow figuring out how to make it fire.
I'll give another update soon. Wow these photos are big, when I import them from Imgur
Bounty1138
Active Hunter
The work continued. I drilled out a hole so I could open the blaster like a flare gun. I wanted to be able to access the electronics and batteries at any point.
So, the next challenge was to figure out how to make a functioning trigger.
I needed to hollow out the area I circled in this pic. I used a drill and a dremel. I also used the dremel to cut off the existing trigger and guard.
Here's a pic from below.
And, here is a pic from the top. I needed to make enough clearance for the shape of the trigger. I drilled a hole for the pin and just used a dremel bit to test it out. It worked, but I still had no idea how the trigger was going hit the button on the board.
At this point, my plan was to put the board in the receiver (and somehow trigger it) and run wires and the batteries down the barrel with the speaker and light (with diffuser) in the chromed tube at the end of the barrel. However, there were two immediate issues. First, the three AAA batteries in the holder from the Hasbro blaster wouldn't fit anywhere in my new blaster and, second, the original light diffuser was longer than the chrome tube. I've never tried anything electrical like this before. Fortunately, I had some help from my local garrison and my Mando Merc buddy Dennis had some ideas and some skills. He created a battery holder where the batteries sat end to end and they would fit down the barrel! You can see the size comparison.
I also just used the dremel to trim down the diffuser so it would fit in the chromed tube. Here is a pic of the cut down diffuser and the original Hasbro speaker. I would just used the smaller piece on the right side.
That's it for this update. I'm on a bit of a roll and will update the next stage soon.
So, the next challenge was to figure out how to make a functioning trigger.
I needed to hollow out the area I circled in this pic. I used a drill and a dremel. I also used the dremel to cut off the existing trigger and guard.
Here's a pic from below.
And, here is a pic from the top. I needed to make enough clearance for the shape of the trigger. I drilled a hole for the pin and just used a dremel bit to test it out. It worked, but I still had no idea how the trigger was going hit the button on the board.
At this point, my plan was to put the board in the receiver (and somehow trigger it) and run wires and the batteries down the barrel with the speaker and light (with diffuser) in the chromed tube at the end of the barrel. However, there were two immediate issues. First, the three AAA batteries in the holder from the Hasbro blaster wouldn't fit anywhere in my new blaster and, second, the original light diffuser was longer than the chrome tube. I've never tried anything electrical like this before. Fortunately, I had some help from my local garrison and my Mando Merc buddy Dennis had some ideas and some skills. He created a battery holder where the batteries sat end to end and they would fit down the barrel! You can see the size comparison.
I also just used the dremel to trim down the diffuser so it would fit in the chromed tube. Here is a pic of the cut down diffuser and the original Hasbro speaker. I would just used the smaller piece on the right side.
That's it for this update. I'm on a bit of a roll and will update the next stage soon.
Similar threads
