Seeking input before molding ROTJ gauntlets

Cruzer

Well-Known Hunter

• Jul 10, 2015

• #1

Hey guys. I wanted to see if the experts here could give input on what they feel needs to be changed before I mold these gauntlets for fiberglass casts. They were modified from a set of my Jango gauntlets, so I hope to dial in their accuracy as much as possible to your acceptable standards. I owe a couple sets to people but would be happy to make them available thereafter if there's a need.

I will be making a quick temporary mold to make solid casts for any modifications before making the master mold. This is so I can move the split lines between the tops and bottom shells if necessary. They also will be molded without the calc pad and dental expander because those belong to RKD, as well as without the various electronics and darts.

Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Lorenzo

 

Mullreel

Well-Known Hunter

• Jul 10, 2015

• #2

I am not a gauntlet expert but when you decide to sell some I would be happy to get a set from you. I have loved trooping your Jango gauntlets.

 

Mullreel

Well-Known Hunter

• Jul 10, 2015

• #3

I am home now so I can see the pics much better. I looked over the gallery pics and compared them to where you stand I am not seeing anything glaring. Some of your edges on the right gaunt may be a bit sharper than the edges in the Magic of the Myth gallery. I certainly like the sharpness but if you want perfect match you might soften the corners. But other than that I don't see much.

I hope that description makes sense.

 

Hunter930

Hunter

• Jul 10, 2015

• #4

IMHO knock these out in cold cast and the Boba crew will line up, ill be the first in line...

 

dv8r

Hunter

• Jul 11, 2015

• #5

Hi Cruzer,

These look very nice, and your paint job is killer! Maybe I just can't see it in your photos, but isn't there a lip around the nozzle end of the flame thrower? You can see bits of it in some of the promotional pictures and some of the screen images:

http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/gall...166-boba-fett-return-of-the-jedi-costume.html

http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/gall...n-of-the-jedi-costume-hd-screen-captures.html

http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/gall...n-of-the-jedi-costume-hd-screen-captures.html

Although, it's clearly broken away or missing in some other shots.

I have a question about your gauntlets pictured if you have a moment to answer -- it looks like there are hinges along both sides of each gauntlet. While I am slow AND old I can't figure how this works... do you fit them over your arms and insert one of the hinge pins from the elbow-end to secure them?

Thanks for any info!

Cheers,
dv8r

 

Mullreel

Well-Known Hunter

• Jul 12, 2015

• #6

Yes that is how the hinges work. One side is a normal piano hinge set up. The other side you install the hinge but make the pin removable and put a bend on the end. (then personally I sand down the pin quite a bit so it comes in and out easier), When you close the gauntlets the hinges fit back together and you insert the pin to secure it. I use this system on my Jango gauntlets and it works incredibly well.



And back to the topic: I know that the lip around the flamethrower does appear in the several shots but it is missing (not broken, just not there) in pics from Magic of the Myth. The lip is also missing in the new Costumes book they put out last year. They picture several gauntlets in the book but none have that part.

There is no doubt that it is there in the screen shots. I think it is accurate to make them either way. I am not sure what happened to the set that had the lip/flange on the end but they don't seem to show up in the archives.

 

Last edited by a moderator: Jul 12, 2015

Cruzer

Well-Known Hunter

• Jul 12, 2015

• #7

Thanks buddy for answering that. Just like Mullreel said, there are two lengths of piano hinge whose opposing sides are glued to the insides of each halve that hold the gauntlets closed when the original length of pin (plus 2-3 link lengths more for the handle) is reinserted. I prefer to use the 1-1/8" wide hinge from Home Depot because it's largest in diameter and seems to pull out the easiest. As I'm pulling it out, I also clear-out the insides of the links by carefully drilling them out with a long drill bit. I can't remember off the top of my head but I think it's a 3/32" drill bit that works best. My local Ace Hardware usually carries them. The pics below show them with the pins. So far it's been the best method I've found to join two fiberglass shells for the constant on/off process associated with trooping.

I'll add a pic of the hinges removed and laid out once a return home after this weekend.

 

Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015

Cruzer

Well-Known Hunter

• Oct 3, 2015

• #8

Hey guys. Finally revisiting this project by making a few modifications for the sake of hopeful greater accuracy and improving the overall symmetry to my original shells. Unfortunately I had to glue the shells together, fill them with rigid foam, and primer over the awesome paint in order to give me a solid object that I could work with. I'm still trying to decide the ideal locations where the shells should split into two. Please let me know if anyone sees any discrepancies, as I hope to have them in silicone as soon as possible. Thanks -Cruzer




Sent from my iPhone

 

Last edited by a moderator: Oct 7, 2015

Mullreel

Well-Known Hunter

• Oct 4, 2015

• #9

They look good in the pictures, and I trust your craftsmanship for certain.

 

Cruzer

Well-Known Hunter

• Oct 7, 2015

• #10

Thanks buddy for the vote of confidence. I made a few adjustments here and there after spotting a few inaccuracies when comparing them to photos mainly in the SE gallery. Because these will be cast in fiberglass, I tried to locate the split lines where they actually were on the right shells, and where they appeared to be simulated on the left shells had they not been overlapped for Velcro. I still need to look at the dart placements and adjust if necessary. I'll also give them a light coat of Rustoleum metallic silver to seal everything once I have a chance to pick up some tomorrow or Friday. The right gauntlet is approximately 8.5" long, while the left is 9.75". My goal is to try and get them molded this weekend.




Sent from my iPhone

 

Last edited by a moderator: Oct 7, 2015

Mullreel

Well-Known Hunter

• Oct 7, 2015

• #11

The split looks pretty good to me.

I will still be up for a set of these when you start casting them.........

 

Cruzer

Well-Known Hunter

• Oct 8, 2015

• #12

Mullreel said:

The split looks pretty good to me.

I will still be up for a set of these when you start casting them.........

Click to expand...

I have a set promised to the member who bought my last Boba, which was one of the main reasons for this project. However, you can have the next set if you'd like. Here's an interesting comparison pic. Looks like I need to slightly change an angle in top right-hand corner, which should be a quick fix...

 

Last edited by a moderator: Oct 9, 2015

F

FettFanatic

Active Hunter

• Oct 8, 2015

• #13

Hey Cruzer. Looking really good. A couple of things I noticed and sorry I haven't chimed in till now. I have been busy and couldn't do the comparisons.

Along the the front of the left gauntlet where the calc greeblie sits there should be a raised lip right along the front of that flat area. It makes a recess for the greeblie to sit down in. I don't know if you can do this but can the angled portion just behind the calc pad be angled back a little more?

On the inside of the left gauntlet where there is the raised square box you might want to make the corners on it less sharp. It also doesn't have a hole in it. Also I don't think you need a recess for the red light. It just sits flush on the surface.

On on the left side as you look at the top of the left gauntlet about at the mid point there is a radius that looks a little off in that pic. It looks like it has just a little too much curve to it.

I am not beating up your work it is just what I noticed. They look really nice as is, but just thought I would mention those things. I would have marked up a picture to explain but I am writing this at 30000 feet in the air and am lucky to have just a little wifi.

I will ill take a look at the right gauntlet and see if I see anything on it that could be tweaked.

 

F

FettFanatic

Active Hunter

• Oct 8, 2015

• #14

The only thing I can see on the right side is that your lines and curves are crisper than the actual gauntlets. Maybe a little rounding over of the corners and blurring some of the details will get it to match if that is what you are after.

Also the right gauntlet has a slight round over on the front edge as you go out towards the wrist. I couldn't tell in your pics if that was already there or not.

 

Cruzer

Well-Known Hunter

• Jan 17, 2016

• #15

Finally the very first cc casts from the new molds. Now starts the assembly...

Sent from my iPhone

 

Last edited by a moderator: Jan 18, 2016

Hunter930

Hunter

• Jan 17, 2016

• #16

This is awesome, supa stoked this coming together

 

Artakha

Active Hunter

• Jan 22, 2016

• #17

Very nice looking! You should feel accomplished.

 

Mullreel

Well-Known Hunter

• Jan 22, 2016

• #18

they look good. I will still be interested in a pair when you get to the point of selling.

 

Cruzer

Well-Known Hunter

• Jan 24, 2016

• #19

Sounds good, just shoot me a pm when you're ready. I'm thinking of keeping them in the same price range as my Jango gauntlet kits, however, they'll have my usual 3 month wait time because unfortunately life keeps me busy. I am happy with how these are coming along...

Sent from my iPhone

 

Silverstalker

Active Hunter

• Jan 25, 2016

• #20

Superb