Cool, that's what I was figuring too...plus it would help seal in the weathering so it doesn't rub off
Cool, that's what I was figuring too...plus it would help seal in the weathering so it doesn't rub off
Everything looks great, man! Your attention to precision is amazing.
I've been wanting to try vacuum forming for a while. I just finished my first "table" today. It's pretty crude - basically a piece of MDF with a single hole in the the center for the platen. I attached some weather stripping to the top and built a wooden frame that fits over the weather stripping. To that, I staple the plastic. My questions are - have you ever tried vacuum forming sintra? That's what I used, and it worked okay, but not great. Also, how powerful is your vac? I have a 4.5HP. It doesn't really give me the crispness I'm looking for and it won't pull the steep angles. I'm trying to figure out the best way to tweak it. Stronger vac? Different plastic? I'm wondering if building a box with a pegboard top is a better way. I can see that yours is like that.
Anyways, thanks in advance for any direction you can give me.
Thanks bro! I still think I could have made a few improvements on a few things now, looking back on it...but I'll know what to do for the next go around
Your table sounds exactly like one that I made a long time ago...one hole in the middle and some weather stripping all the way around. Gotta start somewhere and I think that should make a great jumping off point for you to cut your teeth on (so to speak).
I personally have never tried forming sintra. I have heard that it could be done but I have my doubts. It seems to me that you just wouldn't be able to pull detail (it might work fine for smooth armor pieces though) not to mention the foam base core in the center, I think that it would just melt??? Maybe someone else who has tried it can chime in.
Anyway, I use just a plain 6.5 horsepower shop vac, for now. I think for the issues you're running into, going with a different plastic would definitely help and you'll want to probably use a different type of platen like pegboard , but it sounds like what you really need is a higher vac source. You should REALLY check out this forum that Stormtrooperguy turned me onto. (www.TK560.com :: Index) There is a section in there devoted to specifically vacuumforming and how to go about making one. There are some SERIOUSLY talented people on there who really know what they're talking about Go check it out..hope that helps!
Awesome, thanks for the link! I'm gonna stop by the place I buy my sintra and see if they have any ABS or Polystyrene. What exactly would I ask for if I wanted to try the ABS/Acrylic alloy you used? I get my sintra and acrylic form a sign supplier. If they don't have it there, where would you suggest I check?
Anyways, thanks again for the help. Alos, if it wouldn't derail the thread at all, you should show off some of the stuff you have hanging in the back of some of those pics. They look interesting.
Last edited by J.B.Horns; Nov 24, 2010 at 12:19 PM.
J.B. - those are some Mando armor projects I did earlier in the year. I'm pretty active over on the mercs boards..if you go over there and look around, you'll see tons of pics of that stuff
Got some more progress for you all.
Here's some pics:
Now just missing some metal knee dart greeblies *cough*Jason*cough,cough*G2*cough*
Moving on to the shoulders...these are still works in progress but here's a preview
Here's some more pics...got the bells knocked out today. Thanks to some guy named Richard for making the stencils for the Jaing skull and background...he did some research and took the time to make an accurate skull
Thanks to Lor's stencils, this skull with white background came out fantastic...it was a shame to have to weather it, but I took a pic to immortalize it for all to see :P
That's all for now
Nice work mate your doing realy well with your whole set up and that back plate is definently up there with the best of em
GUN thread Krayt, absolutely gun, Lovein those Knees
Last edited by Evilhemmes; Dec 13, 2010 at 5:46 PM.
Thanks brothas from down unda
Well, after doing some more research on this armor I have decided that I'm going to go back and resculpt a few of the pieces to make them more accurate. I like the backplate and all and I think it works well for what it is, but I really want to do this right so I'll be resculpting that here in a few weeks (hopefully) as well as the chest, ab, collar and cod. Stay tuned!
What color do you guys recommend for the gaunts? (ROTJ)
But seriously id go with white,
im watching with intrest ____ know wha i mean
Wisconsin Central Maroon for the main color.
Testors » Floquil » Railroad Enamels » Paints » Wisconsin Central Maroon
are you a rattle can or airbrush guy i forget?
I took it as whatcolour should they be pulled in
Thanks for the input guys.
Jinto - you crack me up.
F4R - Either or, I can do both so whatever's clever
Ah no Jinto (sorry didn't catch what you meant the first time I looked at it), I don't think I can even get plastic in that color. Black and white are the two major colors of plastic produced
Use the silver us use on ur armor, the get you flatblack a nice one from Rusto, then claret whine ruto also from home depot, the black needs to go under the CW to get the right color, so silver masking black/claret whine...then misting with black to achieve the right weathering
Cool, thanks for the helpful info, bro. I'll likely go that route.
Finally got the knees finished up. A very big thanks to Jason (Gee2) for knocking out the aluminum parts for me.
Up next: Gaunts
Everything looks great. Cant wait to see everything when your all done.
I decided to shift my attention from the armor to the gaunts (still got the backplate to do which will need to be resculpted, but in due time)
So I had a set of test pulls from the Kydex lying around and wanted to use those since they came out good. Since these are thicker (.090) I had to shape them a bit after cutting them down to fit my skinny forearms better. I then sanded them and finish trimmed them
I've tried velcro in the past and am not happy with it at all, not to mention that it wears out and it just doesn't hold. In fact, I don't think velcro would work very good for these gaunts at all because they are so stiff. Doing magnets is a bit more time consuming and more expensive but when you're done, that's it. No more fussing and the best part? ...you don't have to worry about them wearing out.
OK so for the first step after sizing and finish trimming I marked my spot where I wanted the magnets to connect. I figured in the corners since that is where the gaunts will want to pull apart the most and will need the most pressure applied.
So, mark your spot and cut out some holes for the magnets to fit through on the BOTTOM shells. In this case, square holes because I'll be using cube magnets. I'm not sure what the strength rating is on these but they're pretty strong. I would recommend around a 5 lb rating. Not too strong, but strong enough for these gaunts. If you have .060 gaunts you may not need magnets that strong because they'll flex easier than .090. Enough talk, take a look
Cut the hole a little larger to allow easy passage for the magnet (but not too big)
Next I matched up my shell halves and marked with a white color pencil on the inside of the upper clam
Next I attach my magnets inside the upper clams where I marked, with some Loctite Plastix Bonder
After that I added some plastic spacers to the inside of the lower clams in order to recess the second magnet in order to allow passage for the initial magnet to slide all the way up. That will allow your clam halves to clamp together more tightly. This method is what I like to refer to as my 'peg and slot' method. The second (lower clam) magnet holds the first (upper clam) magnet into the slot while at the same time the first magnet acts as a peg. Since the magnets are holding themselves together inside the hole, there is no way the pieces can slip or slide one way or another until you take them apart (and even then they still want to go back together). Once they're together that's it. They're easy to put on and take off too. Another great benefit is that you can still take the halves apart and work on them without having to tear anything apart.
This will work on just about anything. (I used this method on my RC for the elbows attaching to the forearms and it worked great as well.)...you just have to think about how to apply it and which side will be the slot and which the peg Take a look below and it might make more sense when you see the pics
Recessed magnet on the lower clam
Upper clam with cube magnet gripping tightly - peg and slot baby!!
This worked out so well and the magnets were strong enough that I only needed 4 peg and slots per gaunt (a total of 16 magnets). I was gonna add another one in the middle on each side but there was no need. These bad boys hold together on their own no problem
After that I decided to just go ahead and get them primed and let them sit over night
These'll be ready to sand tomorrow then I'll shoot them with some metallic silver and a coat of matte finish to seal it in and then it'll be masking nightmare for the next few days after that.
All in all, this whole process only took me about 2 or 3 hours (I broke it up here and there so it's hard to say exactly how long it took to this point). Not bad for the first day's work and it was fun to work on.
I sanded down the primer and hit it with a shot of metallic silver. I let these dry overnight and did a layer of matte finish to seal the silver (thanks for that painting tip Jason!) then start tracing my areas for masking. Almost forgot, here's a few pics of them from underneath, closed up.
Next I got all the shells marked off with a pencil, then masked it all...it was a veritable nightmare and took me about 3 hours of nonstop masking, but in the end it'll be well worth the effort
While that was drying, I moved onto the flamethrower. This will be done with magnets as well in order to make the bottom panel removable in case later on down the road I decide to add electronics
I braced up the interior of the main box in order to strengthen it and to straighten it out a bit more, as well as add bases for the magnets
Next I cut some slots for the magnets and cut a hole in the center brace for future electronics
Magnets added with loctite plastix bonder
Test with the bottom panel held in place
Then painted it up metallic silver and got the paint chipping masking done
Thanks again to F4R for the tip on adding the black layer underneath
I then let that layer dry and did the claret over it
After that it was time to peel off the masking. This took MUCH longer than I originally anticipated (about 2 hours), but I finally got it done...whew! The right gauntlet was particularly labor intensive (cause it is just beat to hell) but I'm extremely pleased with how it turned out.
That's it for now. I have some more detail pieces to paint up and attach as well as switches and stuff like that, so I'm not out of the woods yet.