This should seem fairly straightforward and is posted to assist those whose are making their own sidearms and particularly those talented people who are making 3D print models. I'll try to let the pictures do most of the talking. For ease of understanding I'll refer to the variations thusly:
a). Lateral safety Pulce 40, which was also marketed under the name 'Pirate 40' but do note that the model pictured is a Pulce 40 just a different model. Number 40 on RHS.
b). Mojofett sidearm. Number 60 on LHS. An excellent replica made by Mojofett. I really can't stress how good these are. I hope the pictures do this justice as it really is a top notch piece if you can find one. These are pretty rare in their own right.
c). Flip Saftey Pulce 40; the correct version. Number 40 on LHS.
I think it's fairly clear which version is in which picture but if better labelling is required then let me know. All three versions are very rare and most likely very expensive. I paid a small fortune for the correct model, slightly less for the the lateral and quite a bit for a Mojo.
1). Flip safety top. Lateral bottom.
2). Handle comparison. Flip safety on left. The flip safety is a lighter colour than the lateral safety.
Flip safety next to the Mojo replica.
The handles on both Pulce models is hollow. Picture of the movie prop it is clearly solid as is the case with the Mojo.
3). Lateral safety close up. The button is pushed through to activate the trigger.
4). Flip safety close up in action. As someone who has done a fair amount of Scuba diving I have to say that I am of the opinion that the lateral safety is a better piece of design for the intended purpose.
5). Tip close up. The flip safety is on the right and feature a metal tip.
6). Unscrew the rear cap and ring to remove the surplus plastic piece (this is the same on both Pulce models).
7). Deconstructing the tip. I've mixed and matched here so in some shots I'm deconstructing the lateral and in some the flip.
Tip unscrews and branded front section just slides off.
Sleeve slides off. Be careful as these things are pretty greasy underneath.
Once the little nut is unscrewed the various sections just slide up. Be careful as the springs are quite strong and there are ball bearings underneath that you won't want to lose.
Below is the lateral model. The holes on the barrel section (under the springs) are far smaller than on the flip model.
A shot to show you how it fits together with that sleeve removed.
8). The three barrels as they should look. The bar underneath is part of the trigger mechanism. It connects to the trigger and is quite long. I have left mine in place and haven't fully explored how to remove it. On the flip model I have taken the thing apart to look into the cylinder section (full of gunk - beware) and can't really see how I'd remove it in such a way as that it could be re attached. Suggestions welcome if you've done it. Otherwise i'll probably just cut it off!
Lateral version at the bottom. Note the smaller holes and the cross diamond knurled section is split into two. These are separate rings.
10). Cylinder section. On the Mojo replica there is a small gap between the metal and the plastic section of the handle and cradle that holds it. It really isn't very noticable but it is there. On the real models there is no such gap.
11). Trigger guard comparison.
12). Close up of the end cap details. The loose one is the flip safety version.
13). Mojo close up.
Screw in end cap comparison.