Pulce 40 Resin copy INTEREST LIST
- Thread starter dankenman
- Start date
I did a few comparison shots. This pic;
the top is my Pulce 40
2nd is my Mojo Sidearm
3rd is my new version with test paint
and 4th is my new version out off the mold with a little trimming
I have had Mojo's version from back when he did his original run. I love it. I did notice something today that I overlooked all this time. His has a "60" on the side, and mine Pulce has a "40". I held them next to each other and his ali tube is just a bit shorter than mine.
I knew there was a version made by Technisub that has a longer barrel, but not shorter. I looked on the wiki and it says the movie version was the "40" but do we really know this for sure? When I really examined it, the only difference is the "60" and the tube is 1/4 inch shorter. The handle part is exactly the same, and the 4 inch barrel tip is exactly the same. Also Mojo's version is lighter by a few ounces, but not really noticeable.
the top is my Pulce 40
2nd is my Mojo Sidearm
3rd is my new version with test paint
and 4th is my new version out off the mold with a little trimming
I have had Mojo's version from back when he did his original run. I love it. I did notice something today that I overlooked all this time. His has a "60" on the side, and mine Pulce has a "40". I held them next to each other and his ali tube is just a bit shorter than mine.
I knew there was a version made by Technisub that has a longer barrel, but not shorter. I looked on the wiki and it says the movie version was the "40" but do we really know this for sure? When I really examined it, the only difference is the "60" and the tube is 1/4 inch shorter. The handle part is exactly the same, and the 4 inch barrel tip is exactly the same. Also Mojo's version is lighter by a few ounces, but not really noticeable.
Fett 4 Real
Sr Hunter
sweet job
GCNgamer128
Sr Hunter
Those look great!!
**** i think ill have to try ponny up some loot; thort the 60 was alot longer?
Any way , Im sure you know what you are doing on the resin front and im sure you are obviuosly doing the most logic way (that was just my too cents)
They look great painted(you wont want to hand that to a kid either!)
Any way , Im sure you know what you are doing on the resin front and im sure you are obviuosly doing the most logic way (that was just my too cents)
They look great painted(you wont want to hand that to a kid either!)
I just want to comment on my recent posts. I have been doing comparisons of the sidearm, and I want to make something clear. Mojo makes an incredible sidearm. The quality is superior, and the attention to detail is quite obvious held next to the real thing. If anyone is looking for the absolute closest thing to an actual Pulce with metal parts, then there is just no substitute for what Mojo has done. It is worth every penny.
I am waiting for the paint to completely dry on my test piece and then the real test begins: I am going to drop it at various angles from certain heights to see if any damage occurs. I honestly don't think anything will happen, with the slight give that the barrel tip has I don't think anything will break. At most I bet the paint may chip or crack. We shall soon find out...
...and thank all of you for the kind words. As an artist I enjoy feedback, good or bad.
I am waiting for the paint to completely dry on my test piece and then the real test begins: I am going to drop it at various angles from certain heights to see if any damage occurs. I honestly don't think anything will happen, with the slight give that the barrel tip has I don't think anything will break. At most I bet the paint may chip or crack. We shall soon find out...
...and thank all of you for the kind words. As an artist I enjoy feedback, good or bad.
your painted tests turned out fantastic. Congratulations. Very very good results when compared to the original.
I noticed some time back that the Mojo-Fett version was from a "60" not a "40" but I doubt it matters much since I do not think anyone knows for sure if it was a 40 or 60 that was used for the actual prop. The differences are not at all significant either way.
I noticed some time back that the Mojo-Fett version was from a "60" not a "40" but I doubt it matters much since I do not think anyone knows for sure if it was a 40 or 60 that was used for the actual prop. The differences are not at all significant either way.
RESULT TIME: No damage! I did tests on the carpet and the tile floor, both places I dropped it at waist high so it hit the ground at an angle on the tip. Nothing. I held it straight out at eye level (approx. 5 feet) and again dropped it so it hit the barrel and nothing. If the ground is rough I am sure it could scratch it up, and I am sure there is a way for it to break, so I do not guarantee this, but the material is quite durable.
Interesting thing today. I pulled #4 from the mold, but this time I added some powder to the mix. Also I took the pic before I did any trimming so you can see it at it's raw beginning. All of the scrap on the seam and trigger area is wafer thin and easily rubs off with your hand.
Not a bad result, I would still paint it in this shade, but with that as a base color, it will hide scratches pretty well if you banged it around a lot. Maybe even just treating that area with a good weathering might be all that is needed. I could also try a slightly stiffer material that is clear so the color would be closer to the original. Since the stuff I am currently using is dark brown, it is mixing with the powder and darkening it up just a bit, so the clear stuff would probably be spot on, but it will be less durable. Something to consider. Either way, the powder is never perfectly uniform so each mold could have a unique swirl within the metallic color, but if it did, and you painted it, you would never see it, so no big deal.
Interesting thing today. I pulled #4 from the mold, but this time I added some powder to the mix. Also I took the pic before I did any trimming so you can see it at it's raw beginning. All of the scrap on the seam and trigger area is wafer thin and easily rubs off with your hand.
Not a bad result, I would still paint it in this shade, but with that as a base color, it will hide scratches pretty well if you banged it around a lot. Maybe even just treating that area with a good weathering might be all that is needed. I could also try a slightly stiffer material that is clear so the color would be closer to the original. Since the stuff I am currently using is dark brown, it is mixing with the powder and darkening it up just a bit, so the clear stuff would probably be spot on, but it will be less durable. Something to consider. Either way, the powder is never perfectly uniform so each mold could have a unique swirl within the metallic color, but if it did, and you painted it, you would never see it, so no big deal.
GCNgamer128
Sr Hunter
Those are some great results there! This is really exciting!
LiquiTed
Active Hunter
Excellent workmanship! I have been thinking it was time to add a sidearm recently and I think I have found the perfect solution.
Keep up the great work and thanks for your dedication and love of this hobby. I too went through a somewhat similar experience that will absolutely put things in perspective and make you realize how important it is to do what you love and love what you do!
Great job and keep us posted.
Ted
Keep up the great work and thanks for your dedication and love of this hobby. I too went through a somewhat similar experience that will absolutely put things in perspective and make you realize how important it is to do what you love and love what you do!
Great job and keep us posted.
Ted
Fett 4 Real
Sr Hunter
very nice
Fett 4 Real
Sr Hunter
its magic
GCNgamer128
Sr Hunter
What a neat video! Once again, I am definitely interested in one of these.
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