Ok, about US Medium Green

One other question, would it not be a good idea to paint right over the huntergreen that I have on their now? If it helps any for info on it, it is a Krylon Hunter Green Satin spray paint. I am just trying to find the easiest way to paint it. Whether it comes down to needing to sand off the old paint and repaint it or what.
 
Since we are on this subject and I can't find the other thread, what is the yellowish color that is used on the ESB armor thats on the weathered parts?
 
Satxer said:
One other question, would it not be a good idea to paint right over the huntergreen that I have on their now? If it helps any for info on it, it is a Krylon Hunter Green Satin spray paint. I am just trying to find the easiest way to paint it. Whether it comes down to needing to sand off the old paint and repaint it or what.
Click to expand...

I would recommend some light sanding first.... nothing too rough...(y)

99centTaco said:
Since we are on this subject and I can't find the other thread, what is the yellowish color that is used on the ESB armor thats on the weathered parts?
Click to expand...

and here is what was used on the JB Project...(y)
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/showpost.php?p=312794&postcount=40
 
Spideyfett said:
I would recommend some light sanding first.... nothing too rough...(y)
Click to expand...

Ok, just enough to take off a little paint but still keeping a fine layer of it? I just don't want to run into where the paint starts cracking. Like when you mix 2 different brands of Spray paint. But if it is airbrushing on, I don't see that happening.
 
Satxer said:
Ok, just enough to take off a little paint but still keeping a fine layer of it? I just don't want to run into where the paint starts cracking. Like when you mix 2 different brands of Spray paint. But if it is airbrushing on, I don't see that happening.
Click to expand...

If you are sanding Sintra/vac-formed armor...then I would recommend wetsanding....it's quicker and your finsh will be perfect.(y)

and I'm assuming you are painting topical?
 
I actually used the Testors Medium Green as a primer for my armor. Then I airbrushed the Floquil US Med Green over it.
I wanted to use a primer that was close to the top coat. . . use less paint that way. ;)
 
Did a little online research last night, and I think I found an enamel equivalent for "US Med Green". First of all the Testors "Med Green" has the FS (Federal Standard) number 34102. Testors also makes an acrylic with the same FS # called "TAC-MED Green". STAY AWAY FROM THESE!! THEY ARE NOT EVEN CLOSE TO "US MED GREEN"!

The Polly Scale "US Med Green" has the code ANA 612 (Navy Air Craft Colors).
I have yet to check it out, but FS 34092 is supposedly a close match to ANA 612. Testors sells "European Green" in enamel with the FS 34092 code. It might be a little dark, but I'm sure much closer than what we've had in the past. Next time I'm at the hobby shop, I'm picking up a couple of bottles to test it out.

Hope this helps somebody out.
 
Airbrush all the way, TK5019. You can use a brush to add topical damage, but all base colors need to be airbrushed.

I went ahead and picked up a few bottles yesterday. It's sold as Model Master "Euro Dark Green". It used to be the color on the back of the ESB helmet on the RS color list. He's since changed that to RLM 73. I haven't sprayed it out yet, but I like the look of it. It's a nice blueish green.
 
I think the Euro Dark Green is too dark for the armor.
I use it as a base for mixing a custom color for the back panels of my ESB helmets.
 
The color by Floquil is US medium Green however I may have jumped the gun and called testors version that and it's probably Medium Green less the U.S. on the front remeber Testors bought Floquils military line so practically every color they produced was from Floquil. I've painted several sets of armor with it. Let me check my color chart and I'll post right back.


Testors model master Medium Green: FS34102.

Got to remember this color gets it's character or look from the weathered black misting which darkens it significantly. There are other greens to choose from but the key is finding a Green that Floquil produced between 1967 and 1978 this was the best closest look unless you choose Dark Green.

Lee
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As long as I got the right stuff from that Testors link, up above. I am gonna be sanding my armor soon and don't wanna color it wrong. I wonder why it hasn't updated the order yet though.
 
I think the biggest misunderstanding folks have with these colors is they were worked over after being sprayed on and if folks expect it to look exactly right by just spraying it on might be in for a dissappointment. it's a little more complicated than that and getting the look right and applying proper weathering techniques. So don't be bummed at first.
 
Weathering isn't a problem. It is getting the color to look the closest before weathering. Not to mention, how inaccurate does hunter green look on all of Boba's armor?
 
superjedi said:
I think the Euro Dark Green is too dark for the armor.
Click to expand...

As I said in an earlier post, it is a little dark, but SOOO much closer than Testors Med Green. For those of us painting with enamels, we don't have much of a choice. I'll probably end up getting a bottle of Polly Scale acrylic US Med Green so I can match it better. Who knows, but it might looks pretty good with a drop or two of white to lighten it up.

In finding this information, I also found a website where you can compare FS paint chips. It's pretty cool, and you can click on this link to see how FS 34092 compares to FS 34102.

http://www.colorserver.net/showcolor.asp?fs=34092+34102

In the interest of full disclosure, here's where I found the original info:

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2004/01/stuff_eng_interior_colours_us.htm

It's a really cool article about the history of military paint colors, where they were used, and how the names and formulations have changed.

-Ryan

showcolor.asp
 
I know what Hunter Green looks like, I have it as my armor color now. It doesn't look bad, but it is quite different I admit.

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