Thank you very much, I just received mine and am heading off to Home Depot later. Thank you for sending me those templates!!!!!!
Thank you very much, I just received mine and am heading off to Home Depot later. Thank you for sending me those templates!!!!!!
Hey can I get a template also?
let me know what info you need
I removed LisaFett's real name pursuant to the CoC which states, in relevant part:
"Posting of anyone's personal information without their consent is prohibited. Do not advertise or mention a member's or dealer's product or what he/she does without their consent. And by all means, do NOT mention their real names. If you get the dealer's OK to post a review, it's still best to be discreet."
If LisaFett gave her consent, I'd be happy to re-edit the post, but better safe than sorry... OSK
**********and now back to your regularly scheduled programming*************************************** ****
Sorry for the long post but maybe this will save her some time emailing it to everyone. Lisa, if you don't want this here let me know and I will remove it.
WARNING – You use power tools and such at your own risk. You undertake all directions in this tutorial at your own risk.
DO NOT COPY OR SELL THIS TUTORIAL. IT IS THE INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY OF LISAFETT. IT WILL CREATE A CUSTOM JETPACK, DESIGNED BY LISAFETT.
Jet Pack Tutorial Version 2.1 – By LisaFett, copyright 2002
*Added Stubby modifications
Lightweight Jet Pack Patterns Instructions
1.Five 4” round green Styrofoam pieces (each about 2” tall)
2.One 2 ½” round green Styrofoam piece (cut to 1 ¾” tall)
3.Two medium Styrofoam cones (see pattern for exact sizes) (available at Michael’s craft stores) (don’t need for Stubby Version)
4.One junior bouquet holder (remove the handle) (available at Joann’s craft stores – Michaels did not have the correct size in my area) (don’t need for Stubby Version)
5.Two really big fishing bobs (don’t need for Stubby Version)
6.Two airwick air freshener cones
7.One acrylic tube, ½” wide, 22” long (you get these at a plastics store, or sometimes at hobby stores or rarely at hardware stores) (don’t need as MUCH for Stubby Version, but you still need some. Just get the 22”, so you have enough.)
8.One acrylic tube, approx. ½” wide, 4” long (don’t need for Stubby Version)
9.One wooden dowel, to fit inside acrylic tube. Approx. 7-8” I’m bad, and forget how big this actually measured. Take the acrylic rod to the hardware store and see what wooden dowels fit inside it. DON’T use an acrylic rod to attach the rocket to the jet pack! It will break. (don’t need for Stubby Version)
10.Dremel with attachments
11.Glue gun for Styrofoam, superglue for Sintra
12.Toothpicks for Styrofoam
13.Wondercutter for Styrofoam (available at Michael’s craft stores)
14.Bondo – in the tube, about two tubes
15.Four sheets of 24”x12”x ½” Styrofoam (available at Michael’s craft stores) NOTE – I recommend using paper-covered foamboard instead.
You’ll have less to paper mache.
16.Four soda cans. You might need to cut off the tops for the cans to fit.
18.About one pack of white computer paper
19.Styrofoam glue helps but isn’t necessary
20.A fan belt, or Sculpey to make the small notched details on the jet pack.
(don’t need for Stubby Version, you can use a piece of Sintra instead, since it’s smooth)
21.A chrome toilet paper roll tube (about $1 at Wal*Mart) to make a jet pack left stabilizer. Part of the Airwick air freshener can be used for the thingamajig on the right side of the jet pack. (don’t need for Stubby Version)
22.Stubby only – Nosecones -
it’s called a Du-Bro spinner, for a radio control plane. You need a 3” for the nosecone, and two 2 ¾” for the side cones.
23.Stubby only – One 3” PVC pipe fitting end cap or just the fitting, one 2” pipe fitting end cap or just the fitting.
24.Stubby only – Cut pieces of Sintra for the side tank housing details that are different from the Classic. OR - Cut the details of the side tank housings out directly from the original pattern pieces. Look at reference pics and judge where they should be cut, mark it out, then cut it with
the Wondercutter. I recommend the first option. You can also use a smooth piece of Sintra across the top, instead of the fan belt or sculpey talked about in the Classic version.
25.Stubby only - Instead of the notched green 4” Styrofoam piece, you’ll add a 3” to 4” PVC reducer onto a 4” round green piece. Cut the Styrofoam down enough so that there is only ½ inch at the bottom, so you can put attach it to the top of the jet pack snuggly. OR, you can use a 3” round
green piece on top of the 4” round green piece, whichever you think looks better.
26.Stubby only - The bottoms of the stubby side tanks are 2" pvc pipe fitting end caps hot glued to the soda cans.
27.Stubby only - 2” PVC pipe fitting end caps, if you WANT to put them on the top as well, underneath of the nose cones. It might be helpful.
28.Stubby only - Use a 4” Styrofoam ball, cut it about in half, add notches, and add that to the bottom of the pack.
29.Stubby only – Some Sintra plastic for details, if you want to do it that way.
30.Time – About 1-3 weeks, and you’ll spend a lot of your time in front of the tv with a bowl of paper mache. 3 weeks at 1 hour a day, or 1 week at 3 hours a day. That’s my rough estimate.
31.What did I forget?
1.Mix white glue with water, equal parts.
2.Tear strips of white paper in various sizes. You will need some very long strips, and some small strips for awkward, small pieces.
3.Dip the paper in the glue mixture, wipe off excess glue, then smooth onto the jet pack. You can use the paper mache to go across any gaps in the Styrofoam, using it to create smooth curves or sharp corners. Use enough layers until it dries very hard. Allow the paper mache to dry overnight.
Add more layers after it’s dry if you need to. Try to work up to bigger and bigger pieces, because it will help make it smoother. Finish with a light layer of Bondo if necessary to smooth out surface.
Instructions: Jet Pack Assembly
*Remember – For Sintra, you must get a closer fit and boil/bend some pieces to fit. With Styrofoam, you will create a SKELETON for a jet pack, ALMOST the right shape, but with several parts you will finish off with paper mache
for the finished jet pack shape.
*Also, with Sintra, you’ll have to cut extra holes for a harness to go through.
Jet Pack Body
1.These instructions are for Styrofoam, Classic jet pack. You will need to modify the instructions and the patterns slightly for Sintra, as directed.
If using Sintra, cut the pieces slightly larger and sand down with a dremel to achieve a closer fit. You will also BEND, rather than CUT, some pieces,
as indicated on the pattern pages. For beginners, I highly recommend you go with Styrofoam, or a combination of Styrofoam and foam core board. I will include some modifications for the Stubby version of the jet pack (the
smaller one used by Jango).
2.Trace and cut out all pieces. Use a Wondercutter for cutting Styrofoam.
3.Cut 3 of the 4” round, green Styrofoam pieces in half, leaving two moon shapes, not too shorter disks. Carefully.
4.Using the Wondercutter, cut small notches in the top half of one whole 4” green Styrofoam piece to form part of the rocket. See a picture. It’s not as hard as it sounds, and if you goof up a little you can fix it with paper mache later. You could also use a 3” to 2” PVC pipe reducer here, but I did not. (For Stubby, you’ll use the nosecone piece, and add that over a 4” round, leaving a ½ inch to fit flush with a 3” PVC pipe fitting)
5.Follow the diagram and use a picture of the jet pack to get an idea of where the jet pack pieces fit together. Yes, each piece has a made-up name,
but they’re mostly logical.
6.Start with the back pieces (1 bent piece for Sintra, 1 piece cut in half to form 2 pieces if using Styrofoam). Use toothpicks and Styrofoam glue to attach the bottom piece to the back piece. Don’t worry that there is a gap between the two back pieces of Styrofoam, or that there are gaps on the
sides. You will cover these with paper strips to form a smooth CURVE later, and it will look really good.
7.Glue/toothpick a small square of Styrofoam on the inside of the bottom piece to cover up the detail hole on the bottom and to add support.
8.Use toothpicks and Styrofoam glue to attach the Far Right Side and Far Left Side pieces. Again, DON’T worry that there are corners that stick out. They are supposed to. You will wrap the paper mache strips around these corners to form a hard, curved surface. Later. Create the skeleton first.
If you used Sintra, you should have boiled/bent the pieces first, then attached with superglue.
9.Use toothpicks and Styrofoam glue to attach the top piece.
10.Use toothpicks and Styrofoam glue to attach the “front base”.
11.Use glue to place five halves of the 4” green Styrofoam round pieces onto the top of the “front base”.
12.*Stubby Only – Before you go on to the next step, you’ll need decide how you want to go about modifying the side tank covers to look like the Stubby version instead of the Classic. You can decide to cut the pieces and glue
them to each other again, following a reference picture that you have of Jango’s Stubby Jet Pack. I wish I could mark exactly where to cut at this time, but I have not made this pack yet. However, it HAS been made by someone else (malcfett), and it looks fantastic! Another way, that I
would probably prefer, is to leave the pieces intact, then cut extra pieces from Sintra.
13.Take the pieces called “Left Left”, “Left Center”, and “Left Right”.
You will probably need to shave these down slightly on the inside, at a slant, using the Wondercutter, so that the soda cans fit inside nicely. Use a glue gun to glue two of the soda cans on either end of the piece called “Left Center”. Glue on the pieces called “Left Left” and “Left Right”
using the glue gun. Be CAREFUL to match these pieces up to their pattern names, as they look similar. The hot glue will eat a little bit of the Styrofoam,
but it’s the best way to do this part, since the glue will set so fast. As you let the glue dry, hold it against the body of the jet pack so that it gets the best fit. Get the cans as straight as possible. Don’t worry if there are some gaps between the Styrofoam. You will use paper mache to
form sharp corners. The first time I made a jet pack, I had more gaps. Each time, there are less and less. Use toothpicks and glue to attach this to the jet pack. * Stubby Mod – The Left Left and Right Right pieces are shaped
slightly differently on the bottom than the Classic. You can cut a little extra off if you want to follow a reference pic you have. There’s a good one in the Star Wars Visual Dictionary.
14.Now repeat this process with the pieces called “Right Center”, “Right Left”, and “Right Right”.
15.Don’t worry that the soda cans float in the middle of the Styrofoam and there are gaps. You will cover these over with paper mache. It really does NOT matter that there are gaps. The paper mache will be really hard once you put enough layers.
16.Attach the 4” round green Styrofoam piece to the top of the jet pack body, as indicated on the pattern pages. Attach the notched 4” round green Styrofoam piece to the top of the first 4” green piece. Attach the cut 2 ½” round green Styrofoam piece to the top of the notched 4” piece.
*Stubby Only – Attach the 3” PVC piece on the top of the jet pack. Use a little hot glue if you need to. It will stay on when you paper mache around it later.
Next, add the larger nose cone (hot glue). You MIGHT want to trim the nose cone first, it looks a little too long to me.
17.Glue on the piece called “Center”. (The long piece that is in the very center of the body of the pack) This piece will be bent down a little bit and curve to fit the jet pack as you put paper mache all around it.
Only – You may need to shorten the piece a little.
18.Use Styrofoam pieces to build up the ends of the soda cans, so that they stick out like they are supposed to, instead of being sunken in like soda cans. *Stubby Only – Attach the 2” pipe fittings to the ends of the top
soda cans, use hot glue for now. Add the rocket nose cones on top of those (hot glue). You PROBABLY want to trim these nose cones. They definitely look too long to me.
19.*Stubby Only – Don’t worry about the plastic pieces coming off of the Styrofoam, as long as you add enough paper mache. You will add layers until it feels secure when it’s dry. When you have enough layers, add a little bondo to smooth it out, then sand smooth. Repeat if necessary.
20.*Stubby Only – The ends of the bottom cans are 2” PVC pipe fitting end caps.
21.Now, you can start to paper mache. Do one side at a time, and work over a plastic drop cloth. You can put on many layers at a time, but be aware
that it will take longer to dry. Keep adding layers until the jet pack is firm and does not bend at all. Check for soft spots and add more layers.
Around the soda cans and other spots that need paper stretched across them
to create curved areas, you will need to put extra layers for support. For the soda cans, start with long, skinny strips, then work your way to smaller and smaller bits that will smooth it out. Paper mache over most of the jr.
bouquet holder, then cover rough parts with Bondo and sand down.
22.Attach either the fan belt pieces, or the Sculpey notches onto the front of the jet pack. (Or for Stubby, the smooth Sintra pieces).
23.Jam the chrome toilet paper holder half (or whatever you choose to use) into the left side of the jet pack body top.
Jet Pack Rocket (Classic Version Only)
1.Use the Styrofoam cones and jr. bouquet holder to create the rocket. Use the tracing on the patterns page to get the correct sizes. You’ll need to cut the bottom part of it on the slant (indicated on patterns page) – OR –
you can place a smaller circle of Styrofoam underneath the cone, and use paper mache to create a sloped surface. The second option actually might be easier for a novice Styrofoam cutter. Of course, the first option might be
easier for a novice paper mache-er. I was a novice at BOTH when I started this, so you can learn, too.
2.Paper mache the rocket. It’s a pain in the neck, I know.
3.You can add small “fins” to the rocket if you want to. I made mine out of Sintra. Most people don’t add the fins.
4.Take the 4” acrylic tube and jam it through the paper mache, into the 2 ½” wide green round Styrofoam piece on the jet pack body. You might have to cut an X with a craft knife. Then pull it out and put glue all around it, and jam it back in. You can add a little paper mache around it to hold it in really securely.
5.Take the wooden dowel and jam it up the bottom of the rocket. Yes, it would suck to be that rocket. Leave about 3 ½” sticking out. Pull it out and put glue all around it, then jam it back in. You can add a little paper mache to secure it.
6.Make sure the rocket fits flush with the jet pack body and does not wobble. I have had mine come a little loose and had to repair it. No big deal, and it only happened because some dork grabbed it and yanked really hard, but a pain nonetheless. It’s an easy enough fix, anyway.
Jet Pack Nozzles
1.Remove the cone from the Airwick air freshener. Just pull it off the top. Pop out the top cover. (Don’t pop out the top cover for Stubby).
That’s the part you can use to make the thingamajig on the right side of the jet pack body! (Not on Stubby) Thrilling, I know. Jam it into the top right side of the jet pack body now, if you want to. Sand the sides of the air freshener cone well, until the pattern is totally gone. A dremel makes
2.Drill all the way through the fishing bobs, where the thingies that attach to the fishing line are. If you are careful, you will drill them just right and they will fit very well on the tube. If you drill them too big, you will need to use epoxy and Bondo to make sure they fit on tightly. You can drill an extra hole on the bottom so that you can make your jet pack smoke later on, if you want to. Be sure to drill holes in the acrylic tube if you want it to smoke as well, too. You’ll have to add some inside
the body, and some inside the fishing bobs, too. (No bobs on Stubby).
3.Glue the fishing bobs onto the air fresheners.
4.Cut guide X’s with a craft knife on either side of the jet pack, as indicated on the patterns pages. (Not for Stubby, those holes need to be cut in the middle of the soda cans.
5.Jam the 22” long acrylic tube through the jet pack. (For Stubby, just cut pieces about 1” long, then jam them halfway into the pack.)
6.Slide the fishing bobs/air fresheners onto the acrylic rods on either side of the jet pack. (For Stubby, cut 1” pieces of acrylic rods again. Cut 1” round holes into the PVC end caps on the ends of the soda cans, then glue part of the rods in there. Epoxy would work best. Glue the airwick
air fresheners onto the rods.
7.Use a little Bondo to plug up the tube ends.
8.Don’t put paper mache around the acrylic rod where it comes through the jet pack body. This way, you can flip up the nozzles when you want to set the jet pack down. It’s really nice to be able to put it down. (For Stubby – You can put paper mache, and it’s coming through the soda can.)
Look and feel all over the jet pack to make sure it’s as smooth as you can get it. Prime it with some good, sandable primer. Now look it over again and find any spots that are still showing up as less than smooth. Go over those with a little bondo, sand, and prime. Inspect again, and hopefully,
it looks smooth by now. You may have to repeat the bondo process if you were impatient or rushed this part. RED FLAG – If you got the pack covered in primer, then noticed that the whole jet pack seems to have a rough, bumpy texture, you did not use enough layers of paper mache. You need to go
back and add a few more layers. You can do it right over the top of the paint, it won’t matter. Get that done, then prime again and see if you’ve done it right.
Attaching the jet pack to your armor:
1.If you use Styrofoam, get some industrial strength Velcro and put it on your back armor and on your jet pack. It will be very secure. I’ve never had mine knocked off, even though I’ve been knocked pretty hard.
2.Some people want to use a harness with the Styrofoam, so they keep their back armor “clean”. If you want to do this, create holes ahead of time, then make sure you reinforce them heavily with paper mache.
3.If you used Sintra, you’ll have to rig up a harness
Last edited by Art Andrews; Oct 28, 2009 at 1:55 AM. Reason: Removed bad URL
Is there a pattern or graphical example of these intstructions?
Do you happen to have anymore? Should I PM you about them?
hey guys, sorry for the long wait. but, i finally shipped the templates off. I am truly sorry for the delay.
This looks like something I can actually do.
Does anyone have a copy they'de be willing to pass on?
I'm also interested in getting the templates for this. Anyone have them that they could pass on?
hey guys...i got some bad news....i have given away all my templates. sorry, i'm out of them.
Patterns and tutorial are now available for download on our website. It's all in one zip file.
Go to our website, then look right in the center at the update. There's a link to download the files.
ETA - Azeem says he's figured out a way to print out the patterns full-size. You would just need to tape them together and cut them out. He will add them ASAP.
The new patterns are up. If anyone has a problem with them, please let LisaFett know. I am still tweaking the images to make assembly easier.
Does anyone know the accuracy of the Plans?
I have not seen them yet.
Can anyone send these full size to me? I have no way to print them out at all.
I have a suggestion for those with the plans:
Print out a copy of each detail on clear acetate, and then place them on an Overhead Projector which can be used to enlarge the details to the correct size on what ever cardboard, wood, or other material you are building your Jet Pack out of.
Ebay has several different Overhead Projectors for sale from $20.00 & up.
The plans should print to correct size now. I blew them up in Photoshop. Several of them have measurements on them to be sure you have the right side. The zip also has different pics of the jet packs LisaFett has made with the instructions.
if you had excel you can paste the images, and then print.cal196 said:
the excel software can prints diferents sheets for a larger one
as you can see here you can print 4 pages
Last edited by secol FETT; Jan 29, 2005 at 1:35 PM.
thank you for this forum. i was gonna give up to make a jet pack but now that i found a tutorial. im back on track. oh BTW thanks Lisafett...
Hey Sergio! Thanks so much for the tip about Excel for printing big pictures. That makes things so much easier. Philsecol_FETT said:
and any progress with the JP
Just out of question, does anyone have a link or a document leading to the illusive tutorial? I cant seem to find it, im going to scratch-build mine.
IMO this tut needs better assembly pictures... i ended up just hodgepodging mine together.. the pictures suck... all the styrofoam blends together and its so far away you cant get detail on what bloody piece is what..
anyone here got Jango's Arena Jet pack Tutorial??
Good grief Im always a year or 2 behind.Would anyone happen to have any templates?I have read alot of posts about making home-made jet packs,some great info,but the pics dont always show up (me being late in the project again)
I'm wanting to attempt a jet pack.One for my wife to be Jango and for me to be Boba.Ive already spent the most part on the armor and helmets,gauntlets and jet packs are on a tighter budget...for now anyways.
Any help or a push in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.Pics would be great....I know alot of you have attempted scratch built JP's....the sintra and molding are out of my league right now... so anyone know how to do a pack or gauntlets out of soda cans,tinfoil,modge podge and a toilet paper roll?
I'm a belgian Boba Fett's fan and I'm building my own Boba's costume.
I'm looking for the jet pack plans to build it by myself.
If some one could help me, it would be kind.
If I must pay something (for plans or stuff like that), I'd agree
Thanks in advance.
Sorry if I made some grammatical mistakes :o but my mother language is french
Hey guys I am new around here and who is LiesaFett?