My current progress follows next, but firstly here's my original posting to the RPF I made last December...
steveday72 said:
steveday72
(12/12/02 1:21 am)
prop-planet.com - This website is for sale! - prop-planet Resources and Information.
I've been examining the barrel clamps, trying to find a match and I think I've found the type of clamp they used - just a slightly different design:
From McMaster-Carr...
(
McMaster-Carr )
Wide-Band Self-Tightening Spring Hose Clamps
From page:
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/0202.html
Cheers
Steve
[HOSE CLAMPS]
Currently, I'm still looking for self-tightening hose clamps that don't have the cut away sections on each side - I've been trawling through the tools at Pawn shops, but have only been able to find the part shown above.
They are not oil wrenches as was once suggested, as they are not thick enough and too large in diameter - even the old ones I've managed to find are at least 3" in diameter (the sizes needed for the ESB blaster are 1.5" and around 1.87" in diameters).
I am going to re-examine all of my old research and see if I can see any extra details that might suggest another part, but until then, they appear to be self-tightening hose clamps.
[MOLEX CONNECTORS]
The connectors (identified by TrooperExpert of the RPF) that Molex currently make are not identical to the ones used on Boba Fett's ESB Blastech EE-3, as they have since changed the design of their connectors. The new/current design is keyed - that is, it has two notches on one side of the female connector and two ridges on one side of the male connector - this prevents them from being inserted the wrong way around. (See the diagram below):
Diagram, Top to Bottom: Female Connector (Perspective view); Female Connector (Side view); Male Connector (Front view)
The type we need is the female connector (1st and 2nd on diagram) - so the notches will have to be filled with Bondo (car body filler).
The other change to the connectors is the type of latching mechanism used. This is a completely different design and requires quite a bit of cutting and filing to remove the current parts (see photo) and put on a scratch built piece that looks like the original prop.
The current Molex connectors (42022 series) of this type only come in White/Natural, Brick Red and White, so the whole thing will have to be sprayed black anyway - which will help to hide the modifications needed.
[RIFLE SCOPE & RINGS]
Now, onto the scope - I've been scouring eBay for the past month or so and have only seen a couple of alternatives with the correct scope rings. The last one was a "Marlin Micro-Vue 4x" (4x20 I believe) and you can see this item still listed on ebay (
click here to see it).
As Fettcicle said in a few messages back, there is another good match available, though it doesn't have the correct rings. That scope is a Simmons 4x20. The raised area where the adjustment knobs are fitted is slightly larger than the original ASI 4x20, but it does have the correct 3/4" diameter scope body. The best news is that they're cheap ($10 or less on eBay).
The scope rings could easily be made with sheet metal (Aluminum is easier to work with) and a few Socket head cap screws. When I get around to building mine (not for at least 3 months as I'm working on a few projects at the moment), I'll make a template and upload it.
[STOCK "PLUGS"]
Oh - the stock plate "
split plugs" - they're not UK electrical plugs, as I used to live in the UK and was an electrician for quite a few years.
UK electrical plugs are large and bulky, with three long rectangular pegs sticking out the back. The photos shown look more like a kind of 2-pin European electrical plug - or possibly, as has been suggested before, an AM aerial plug.
...
I'm glad other people are looking at these details now, as it's tough working alone.
Steve
