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  1. Member Since
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    Jan 5, 2013, 12:55 AM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #51


    I drilled out recesses for the darts to slide into (MojoFett, could you hook me up with some please?). The gauntlet sits pretty straight-up and a drill press did the trick very nicely. What size bit was it? Something about the same size as the rivets I picked up as dart replacements. I carefully measured where to drill, but it seems I still mucked it up a bit. If you look, you might see where I'm currently carving out the button recess so it has room to slide back and forth.
    I picked myself up a couple Alco 'tyco-switches' (is that what they are?) for the right gauntlet. I searched high and low for measurements or locations where to drill out for these switches on the right gauntlet, but to no avail. Since every gauntlet out there is a little bit different, the best it seems we can do is 'right around there'. Check your picture references, and use the old Mark 1 eyeball to find a nice spot for them.

    Here's where mine are. I at least used a straight edge to get them relatively centered up-down. However, I just used the dremel grinding bit until the switches fit in the hole. I probably should have found the drill bit size and cut proper holes, but whatever. They fit, and most of the battle scars will be covered up with the washers and nuts.

    It was quite a battle to get these to fit. I'd be willing to bet that I have about 5 mm of fiberglass and resin slapped on the insides of these things. As well, there was quite a thick layer of original resin to grind through. The bases of these switches are massive, and I don't think they would fit perfectly perpendicular unless you got some old Ruffkin Toys vac-formed styrene gauntlets.

    In terms of spacing the switches out, I referred to reference pics as best as I could. However, I ended up putting them a little too close together. I had to grind the edges of the switches down in order for them to fit next to each other and not look cross-eyed.
    I'm hoping that the switches are still functional. I'd like to use them as helmet rangefinder servo switches; one brings it down, and the other brings it up again. Hopefully there's still room for an RF board in the gauntlets.
  2. Member Since
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    Jan 8, 2013, 1:52 AM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #52

    Another update:
    (Optional) Step 5D: Finishing the Flamethrower Scratchbuilding

    I used a set of Vernier Calipers to centre the wide middle ring that goes around the cartridge.

    Once I got the same measurement on both sides, I marked the edges of the ring with a pencil.

    I threw a piece of masking tape down and squeezed out a little CA superglue (I used the medium thickness stuff). With a toothpick, I smeared a little between my pencil marks. The gap between the two brass sleeves is pretty tiny, so too much glue will ooze out the edges.

    With a twisting motion, I put the middle ring in place. A twist as you fit it should ensure that the glue evenly coats the insides and ensures a secure bond, and will pull any excess glue into the gap between the brass ring and the body.

    Simply repeat until all your rings are attached. Here's one of the finished gas cylinders.

    The dart bodies are just a touch too short, compared to the spacing from the original resin cylinders. I would have to add a little length, so I sleeved some aluminum tubing onto the dart points. Before I just cut and slapped them on, I grooved and rounded out the ends of the aluminum tube, so it would sit nice and flush against the round cylinder head with no gap.

    Using a drill bit of sufficient size, I cut out the insides by hand. It's an aluminum tube, so it's a soft and easy-to-cut metal. Once the groove was cut, I sliced off the necessary length. Here are all 3 'nubs' for the dart ends.

    I used some JB Weld metal epoxy to secure the nubs to the dart points. You can wipe away any excess with an acetone-soaked cotton bud.

    Here's all three darts with the nubs attached to the ends. I cut them long enough so that they would sit inside the front cylinder block and used tube that was just thick enough to sit inside the recesses with almost no wiggle room. I sliced off the point of one of the dart bodies with a cutting disc and a dremel. It'll be the top gas cylinder. At the top of the pic, you can see that I drilled through the resin recesses of the front cylinder block to accommodate the other two dart points that will sit inside the flamethrower tubes.
  3. Member Since
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    Jan 8, 2013, 2:01 AM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #53


    The back ends of the gas cylinders are too wide to sit inside the recesses of the rear block. So I made some pins for them to sit inside the recesses. The copper tube will sit inside the brass dart bodies, while the aluminum rings at the end will fit nice and snug inside the rear block recesses.

    The pins are fitted and JB Welded into place.

    Here are the cylinders dry-fitted into their respective blocks.

    And a final parting shot of the entire flamethrower assembly. Once again, it's only a dry-fit. I want to keep the parts separate for ease of painting. I could probably do a little more work replacing the resin tubes and that resin 'washer' at the back end of the bottom tube... but for now, I'm calling this step DONE!! Thoughts?
  4. RafalFett's Avatar
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    Jan 8, 2013, 2:34 AM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #54

    I like how you 'replaced' some of the flamethrower parts with bits and pieces and now it looks professional and clean. You did amazing prep work and adjustments to the gauntlets. I think you cut a bit too wide the opening for the torch on the right gauntlet, but that's an easy fix if you decide that you want to correct it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    (Note that the second image is an original Pre-Pro #2 right gauntlet modified by LFL for the ROTJ needs and had the working torch, but they filled and painted the button side and removed the minilight inner parts)

    Keep up the great job!
  5. Member Since
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    Jan 14, 2013, 10:54 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #55

    WOW, fantastic thread! Good Job...
  6. Jawsum's Avatar
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    Jan 17, 2013, 3:26 AM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #56

    Your workshop is magical, man! And it's so cool to see someone else assemble these gauntlets
  7. Vultana's Avatar
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    Jan 17, 2013, 11:42 AM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #57

    I love to see creative minds at work. Nice job!
  8. Member Since
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    Feb 2, 2013, 12:46 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #58

    Time for an update, kids!
    Step 8: Assembling the Gauntlet Halves
    I decided and commited to hinging one side of the gauntlets and using big rare earth magnets to secure the other side. Here we go...

    I got a length of piano hinge that was just kicking around the school shop. It's a little too long, so I used the dremel's metal cutting disc to shorten it. You can see that I actually did measure twice before cutting it once. Ishould mention that I layed down some fiberglass cloth reinforcing strips on the side that would receive the hinge and screws. It was sanded flat so the piano hinge would lay flat and flush with the gauntlets.

    Use eye or face protection! And find yourself a heavy work jacket or smock (mine's green). We'll be doing a fair amount of metal slicing today.

    I cut the hinge to length, based on filling the gap between the gauntlet ends as much as possible, getting complete hinge sections, and getting as many screw holes in the gauntlets as I could.

    These are the screws that I used. They're pretty short, but they have a really wide, thick 'grab' to them. I lined up the piano hinge on one gauntlet and marked where the screws would drill into. I purposely used a slightly smaller drill bit to drill out where the screws would go (I wanted a really tight fit). I then screwed the hinge to the gauntlet by hand. I didn't want to gouge, score, or worse, strip out the screw holes in the gauntlets.
    Last edited by Necronaut; Feb 2, 2013 at 1:03 PM.
  9. Member Since
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    Feb 2, 2013, 1:01 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #59


    I repeated the above step with the other gauntlet half, and voila! Hand-tightening the screws should prevent the resin and fiberglass from cracking, splitting, or stripping in the screw the holes.

    Now to slice off the screw ends sticking out of the show side. Don your protective gear!

    Working slowly and allowing the cutting disc to do the work, slice off the ends. You may gouge into the resin, but we're going to need to putty and smooth these bits anyways. No big deal.

    The screw ends are now cut roughly flush with the gauntlet surface. I used a grinding bit on the dremel to further smooth and actually dish out the screws themselves.

    Back at home, I started working on the magnet side of these gauntlets. I picked up some rare earth magnet bars from an online store and roughed up one side of them. This gives the epoxy something to stick and bite into.
  10. Member Since
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    Feb 2, 2013, 1:20 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #60


    After roughing up the gauntlet insides where the magnets would be glued, I mixed up some JB Weld and applied it to these spots.

    I then glued and placed the magnets so they would overlap the edge of the gauntlet slightly. This side of the gauntlet was sticking out just a little bit too much, so i used the magnets themselves as closing tabs to achieve a better closing alignment. The magnets were clamped in place and allowed to dry overnight.
    It should be noted that JB Weld contains iron or steel powder. Combined with magnets, it makes for a rather interesting sight when the JB Weld starts creeping out and flowing toward the edges of the magnets. I had to repack the JB Weld under and around the magnets a few times as it started to set up.

    Despite my better judgement, I still used JB Weld on the other side to secure the other magnets. I purposely set them back about 1 mm from where the magnets on the other half would be when shut. They have about 12 lbs of pull each so when closing, they tend to really snap shut! I didn't want them constantly hitting themselves when clasping in case they cracked.
    I've heard stormtrooper costumers talk about 'armor bite'. It's when you move and a flap of skin gets pinched between two of your armor plates. This clasping technique has the potential for such an occurence (as my right forearm can attest to).
    I've also found that some are a little skeptical of clasping gauntlets using the magnet technique. Believe me, these are NOT coming apart without an extreme amount of effort.
  11. locitus's Avatar
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    Feb 2, 2013, 1:24 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #61

    You really need to rename your thread. You're building gauntlets like a pro!
  12. Member Since
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    Feb 2, 2013, 1:28 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #62


    Now it's time to start puttying the screws. I used Bondo glazing putty to do this. I laid down some on a few strips of masking tape for easy disposal when finished. I also mixed in some nail polish remover to thin it out a bit.

    I used a metal spatula to spread it on like peanut butter. Cleanup is as easy as wiping off the excess with a paper towel moistened with the nail polish remover.

    When finished, simply peel up your masking tape 'palette' and toss it in the garbage. Easy!

    I used 300 grit sandpaper to sand off the excess. It took me a few applications (this isn't the last one) to cover up the scars from the cutting disc. By dishing into the screws a little when grinding them down a few posts back, it should create a nice bowl for the putty to sit inside and completely cover the screws.
  13. Member Since
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    Feb 2, 2013, 1:41 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #63

    Now, I have jumped forward a little with the right gauntlet. It's been primed with a 'filling' automotive primer already and I'm in the process of filling all the little pinholes in the resin. I'm using a scale modelling product called Mr Surfacer. It's kind of like a paintable putty. It's acrylic resin powder mixed into a lacquer paint. You brush it into small cracks and gaps, let it dry, and sand it smooth. I haven't sanded it off yet, but I think that it's just covering up the pinholes, rather than filling them up. I'll be going at this gauntlet on Sunday with an orbital sander and some sanding sticks to see how my pinhole filling job went. If Mr Surfacer doesn't do the trick, I've heard that you can also thin down some PVA (white school glue) with water and use that to fill pinholes in resin. It sands smooth too.
    My left gauntlet is not going so smoothly. I applied two layers of fiberglass mat to the insides of these things, and the heat ended up warping the left bottom gauntlet half too much. I tried correcting it with heat, but it just won't stay in the shape I need it to close flush with the upper gauntlet half. I got Christian from MOW to send me another gauntlet half, and it came in last week. Right now, it's at school setting up after its first fiberglassing. I made sure that it will cure up in its proper contour using a form. It's only going to get a single layer of mat on the inside and a few strips of cloth on the edge where it will be hinged.
  14. Member Since
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    Feb 17, 2013, 3:15 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #64

    Question: I'm trying to find a suitable green paint for the gauntlets, and I have picked up a couple local possibilities: Testors Field Green (through an airbrush) or Krylon Italian Olive spraybomb. I haven't gotten to my last (and furthest away) hobby shop (which carries Humbrol/Pollyscale paints as well as Testors). I really want an enamel paint for my hard parts. Are either of these color of any use, or should I hold out for or order the Testors RLM62?
  15. thebeans's Avatar
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    Feb 17, 2013, 5:01 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #65

    When i get around to doing my gaunts i may paint them with humbrol green 78 , I've seen a thread or two on this gauntlet color matter, sorry i dont have a link for you, but they came out pretty nice with 78 plus some weathering and they grey details, hope this helps. Nice job on this gaunts build BTW
  16. Nate's Avatar
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    Mar 28, 2013, 11:27 AM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #66

    I've seen model master 1943 panzer olivegrun on gauntlets before.
  17. Mar 28, 2013, 6:44 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #67

    I use humbrol 78. I have also used Rustoleum satin spruce green in the past, but i liked the Humbrol color better, so thats what i use for the gaunts now. Italian olive is too brownish. IMO it is only good for the ROTJ bucket top. You really shouldnt use it on any ESB parts unless its for weathering purposes.
  18. Major's Avatar
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    Mar 28, 2013, 10:23 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #68

    This is a GREAT thread..........
  19. Member Since
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    Mar 28, 2013, 10:48 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #69

    I'll be getting back on the gauntlet horse soon here, folks. I've been getting a little carried away with assembling and painting up my new RKD armor. As well, I wanted to make sure my sanding and filling job on the right gantlet was acceptable before blabbing about how I did it. I'll post a WIP on the filling and 'body work' on the left gauntlet in a couple weeks, using the same process.
  20. Member Since
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    May 6, 2013, 5:45 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #70

    This thread is one of the best I've seen. Do you strap down the tops of the gauntlets when you fiberglassed them so they wouldn't pop up out of the jig you made ?
  21. Member Since
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    May 7, 2013, 12:10 AM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #71

    Before I wrapped the fiberglass around the insides, I heat-molded the gauntlet halves with some hot water so that they lined up. After building the jig at the proper angles, I placed the gauntlet halves in the jig and marked how far to push them into the jig front-to-back.
    After the fiberglass was laid I pushed them into the jig, lining them up with the marks I had made. They stayed in the jig just fine as the resin set without me having to strap them down.

    Once again, the armor thing's been consuming my life. I've been on a seemingly neverending quest to find the right color out-of-the-jar for my armor. I've settled on MM euro dark green. It seems to have that mint green tone with a hint of blue to it, unlike the yellow or olive-tinted medium and field greens I've been experimenting with.

    Now that my metal gauntlet rocket's arrived, this may be the kick in the butt I need to just get on and finish them!
  22. Member Since
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    May 20, 2013, 10:26 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #72

    Hey gang, a little update on some work I did tonight. I kinda lost my mojo on this over the spring when my armor arrived. It's almost done, and it'll be a while before I see my CC GMH, so I thought I'd finish these gauntlets off....

    These resin parts are pitted with tiny micro-bubbles and pinholes. I spent a couple weeks sanding, filling, sanding, filling, etc. until the surfaces were smooth and the bubbles were filled. I started with a coat of DupliColor Adhesion Promoter on all the resin parts. It's a product used in auto-body shops to make sure that paint will stick to plastic. After that, I sprayed several coats of automotive filler primer. It's used to fill small imperfections and prime the surface of your work for finish sanding or paint. I sanded the parts flat, gave them a good scrub, then set out to fill any remaining micro-bubbles & pinholes. I use a product called Mr Surfacer for the pinholes and small gouges. It's a semi-thin, paintable liquid filler for tiny gaps and imperfections. It still took a couple weeks to find and fill all the remaining surface imperfections that will show for all the resin bits of the flamethrower. Once I was satisfied that I had caught them all, they got another round of primer.
    As you can see, I've went ahead and sprayed a few coats of white on these parts. I'm in the process of masking them off for black paint.

    I use Tamiya Tape for all of my masking. I was big into plastic model kits before I started this project (I needed the break from models anyways ). I used a sharp hobby knife with a brand-new blade to trim all of the panels on the whipcord launcher. As for the sides...

    I sanded off the sides of the whipcord launcher and am using styrene sheet to remake them. It's thin enough that I can trim the styrene with scissors for a rough cut.
  23. Member Since
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    May 20, 2013, 10:46 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #73


    Once the pieces were cut out, I trimmed them to fit the whipcord launcher sides, with about a 1 mm gap between the edge of the launcher and the plastic trim. These pieces are going to get a coat of white paint to match the white paint on all the other pieces.

    Everything's ready for some more white paint! But why did I bother masking off the white panels and parts, you ask? Paint bleed. It might be a symptom of my own sloppiness, but if I mask off a part for painting a new color what inevitably happens is that the new color always runs under the tape here and there. By spraying the underlying color after masking, whatever bleeding potential there might be gets blocked by this final application of the original color. I may still get paint bleed, but it will be the original underlying color. It makes it so much easier to deal with.

    I am using Humbrol paints through a Paasche Talon airbrush. My little workstation could use some cleanup, but whatever . I much prefer using Testors MM enamels (I find them more durable once dry), but I am committed to using Humbrol paint schemes for when I paint my helmet this summer. Better get used to them. I am thinning the Humbrol enamel at about a 2:1 ratio of paint to thinner. I started with a 1:1 ratio, but it always came out too 'wet', thin, and runny.

    Here's some of the flamethrower parts with their white paint. This is about 4 or 5 coats of Humbrol gloss white.
    Seeya soon!
  24. Member Since
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    May 25, 2013, 5:13 PM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #74

    Quick update. I know you're all looking!

    I put down some Humbrol gloss white on the parts after masking to prevent the paint bleed. Here they are. Once it had dried for about 24 hours, I sprayed a couple coats of Humbrol gloss black and allowed it to dry. After removing the mask...

    Ta da! No paint bleed at all! I painted all the flamethrower barrels and gas chambers silver with a Tremclad spraybomb as well, just like my armor.

    Matty Matt found a guy on Etsy who makes these replica dental expanders, so I bought a couple. They have a giant hole in the middle, so I epoxied a finishing nail through it. It'll get glued into a hole drilled into the gauntlet. Rather than go through the trouble of airbrushing brass paint and cleaning the airbrush, I just dipped the part into the paint pot and wiped the excess away with an airbrush cleaning q-tip.

    I used Gunze Mr Metal Color: Brass for the dental expander paint.

    I got a REALLY nice pressure-cast of a Casio keypad thrown into my RKD/IOA armor purchase (Thanks, RKD ), and here it is with the same Tremclad silver paint used on all my other metal bits.

    I used Tamiya clear acrylic paints to paint the keypad buttons. Hopefully I got the orientation right.

    Looking at the ESB pics, I found that the red bits of the flamethrower are more orange-ish. I used equal parts of Humbrol orange 132 and red 19. In the airbrush paint cup, it looks perfect. With a couple more coats, it'll pop on these parts. We should have a finished flamethrower within a couple days, folks!
  25. Member Since
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    May 28, 2013, 12:18 AM - Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!) #75

    I slapped some Maskol onto one of the flamethrower gas chambers and sprayed it with the same red-orange of the other flamethrower parts. It took a couple coats for decent coverage, but it's finished now.

    This morning before I left for work, I mixed up some JB Weld and epoxied the gas chamber parts to the forward and rear block assemblies. I let it dry all day (about 12 hours).

    I've drilled out the screw holes embedded in the flamethrower mounting plate, and drilled corresponding holes to receive a couple screws to assemble these parts together. As well, I've scratched off the paint in these areas so any epoxy I apply will stick to the resin, not the weaker paint.

    I'm using these large hex-head screws to put together the flamethrower and its mounting plate. The hex heads will serve as locator pins with corresponding holes in the gauntlets for them. I am making the flamethrower removable with some rare-earth magnets. I would imagine that there are more than a few people who've snagged and ripped off the barrels of their ESB flamethrowers on troops and such. If it happens to me, no big deal; it pops right back on with no tools needed.

    I'll be securing the blocks to the mounting plate with both the hex screws and some Devcon Plastic Welder.

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