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MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

  1. #26
    Magoo's Avatar
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    Apr 2009
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    Hertford UK
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    Mojo fett has his Darts for sale right now on Ebay.currently has 10 sets
    RB replicas ( Russ Brown) makes great stuff , however, only produces items in a run, so you could wait a while for what you are after!
    Quote Quote Posted from iOS app

  2. #27
    StrumFett's Avatar
    Member Since
    May 2008
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    France
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    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Hi Necronaut,
    This is the way i used. If you have any question, i would be happy to answer it
    dscn7614-jpgdscn7618-jpgdscn7617-jpg

  3. #28

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    I see Mojo's darts on there, and I also see some darts from 'fenixprops' too. The fenix ones are only about half the price, though. Anyone have any experience with fenixprops? Quality/accuracy, communication, speed of service?

  4. #29

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Finally got some Mojo darts in the works ( cheers, Mojo & recon!). In the meantime, I have layed down a couple layers of fiberglass on the entire insides of the gaunts. I have also put down reinforcement strips of fiberglass at the one edge of the gauntlets. I've decided to use piano hinge along the insides of the gaunts (hence the reinforcement/thickening fiberglass strips), and will use rare-earth magnets to secure the outsides of the gaunts. I thought of using piano hinge on the insides because it's less likely to be seen/noticed, while the outsides of the gaunts remain relatively seam-free.

    Watch for updates!

  5. #30
    Fettered's Avatar
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    Jul 2011
    From
    Florida Gulf Coast
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    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Nice!

    You already figured out that smaller batches are better, they also don't kick as quickly. Here is a surfboard maker's tip:

    Go ahead and leave a little excess. When your glass work has partially kicked but not yet fully cured you can trim quite nicely with a razor blade. While it works best with fiberglass cloth it can work with mat as well and it saves a lot of dremel work.

  6. #31
    22ssplt's Avatar
    Member Since
    Jul 2008
    From
    Deliverence, Indiana
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    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    This thread is very cool

  7. #32

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Thanks for the kind words and advice so far, everyone.

    I'm ordering the buttons and switches for the gauntlets right now. The silver Alco-switches for the right gauntlet were easy enough to find and order, but I'm having a little trouble with the LED. The found parts wiki says something about a red indicator lamp on the left gauntlet somewhere. After scouring the ESB gallery here, I can't seem to find where it's supposed to go on the gauntlet. Is it something only on the ROTJ gauntlets? Or is it hidden somewhere that the ESB gallery pics don't reveal?

    Seeing as those newly discovered 70's Eveready lamps are hard to find, I'm thinking of just grabbing a push-button switch part from my local Source and modifying the casing to fit into the right gauntlet. I'll probably just use an LED coming out of the front of the gauntlet for the light.

    Thanks for the help!

  8. #33
    RafalFett's Avatar
    Member Since
    Oct 2010
    From
    Galati, Romania
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    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    The left gauntlet red lamp is specific only for the ROTJ suit.

    By the way, you have an excellent thread here!

  9. #34

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Quick update for you...

    I saw these at the local dollar store. They are 'precision screwdriver sets' for $2 Cdn each and they come with about 8 tiny bits. It's the barrel/body that caught my eye, though...

    I have some of the resin bits from the flamethrower assembly sitting above the screwdriver handles, and there's a pretty close match between the knurling and banding on these handles compared to what comes in the gauntlet kit. They are hollow, and almost the right size to receive the fat tube bits that came with the kit. I'm thinking of throwing these on the drill press and going at them with some emery cloth to refine the shape of the tips, and then cutting them up in a mitre box to size to match and outright replace the resin parts. I think it could make for a much sharper-looking flamethrower.
    There doesn't seem to be any consistent layout/size of parts on the many flamethrower bodies that have come out for ESB gauntlets (is there?). I think I have a little artistic license here.
    What do you think? All replies welcome!

  10. #35
    redkraytdragon's Avatar
    Member Since
    Apr 2010
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    Albuquerque
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    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Awesome score! While I don't know much about this ESB attachment (yet ) I don't see why you couldn't make those parts work for you.

  11. #36

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    those look pretty darn close to me. i love the updates on this thread

  12. #37

    Member Since
    Jun 2012
    From
    North Carolina
    Posts
    18

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Necronaut, this is great!

    I first jumped into fiberglassing back in October when reinforcing WOF-templated gauntlets and helmet. I had a really tough time getting the stuff to stick into crevices - it seems to contract, or at least flex from the heat, a bit while curing. That makes it pull out of any tight space it's been wedged into, even if totally flush, wetted with resin, and without air bubbles. I decided the parts didn't need full reinforcement - they're just for show - but if you have the same problem and develop any tricks, let me know!

    I did find a few tricks, through experimentation or Google searches, to combat the air bubble & mat overhang issues. I dealt with bubbles by "stabbing" at them with the bristles straight-on, like you suggested. That seemed to force the air out, and not just to the space around the bubble, but out through the mat. On relatively flat surfaces, this worked great - so "brushing" sideways is not just bad because it makes a hairy mess, it also tends to pull the mat and create air bubbles (or at least leave those that are already there).

    The mat overhang I actually found useful, as it was a real pain if I tried to trim close to the part's actual size and wound up short after the resin went on. Grinding mat with a Dremel, minus resin, isn't exactly ideal, though - it gets wrapped around the shaft and can be a real pain to remove. So I just applied resin at least 1/2" (~1.5cm) past the edge of the part. After curing, I could Dremel the excess off without worrying about fiber strands getting into my tools. Not ideal if you have a part that is thicker at the very edge than in the middle, but if you're reinforcing a part of uniform thickness, it worked well for me.

    And on the note of gauntlet darts, Chewiepal came up with some that are really good approximations for those on a budget: http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f25/c...ewiepal-20532/

    As a beginner myself, I'll be watching this thread big time. Thanks!

  13. #38

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Yeah, I have a feeling it'll be a while before Mojo can get back to knee and gauntlet darts. Sounds like work is taking a lot of his time, and he's in the middle of the GMH aluminum ear run too. Nail rivets will work in a pinch, though. Thanks for the tip!

    I actually got a PM about where to find these 'precision screwdriver sets". I got them at Dollarama, a Canadian discount store chain with no online store. With constantly changing stock, it might be tough to find them. I did a quick Google image search and found these, which are kind of close...
    USD $ 8.79 - 9-in-1 Portable Precision Screwdriver Set, Free Shipping On All Gadgets!
    Precision Screwdriver Set - 9 Pc; Torx, Phillips - Amazon.com
    9-in-1 Aluminium Alloy Precision Screwdriver Set
    The last link looks like it might be a little short, but it's all about the tips anyways for this part! I think you'd need 4 of these. As for the actual build-up, I couldn't use the drill press in the shop on Sunday (no key to turn on the power to activate the power outlets or heavy machinery in the shop). I'll try again on Saturday or Sunday or over my holiday break.

    Soooo.... any idea on where to find the flared tip for the bottom nozzle? I was thinking of using a couple washers epoxied to a pen tip (like the DIY toe spikes).

  14. #39
    girlattorney's Avatar
    Member Since
    Oct 2012
    From
    Portland, Oregon, United States
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    61

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Wow this is a great thread! I literally just bought a set of MOW ESB Gauntlets so I'll be keeping a close eye on this.

  15. #40

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    I spent a couple hours at the school shop today, and I turned out about 6-odd aluminum pieces from the found screwdriver handles as replacements for the knurled resin fittings on the flamethrower. With the proper tools, this went quite well (and I still have all my fingers and limbs intact). Add some parts from a couple pens from Staples, and this is going to look SICK!! I put down one last layer of woven fiberglass strip along the piano-hinge side of the gauntlets too before I do the clamshell thing with them. Sorry, no pics right now, as I forgot the camera at school and it's -20 C out right now. I'll have a big update for everyone after Christmas.

  16. #41

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas out there! I just got back from my family and stopped by the school to pick up my camera. I'll share with you the goings-on with the flamethrower and the screwdriver handles. I spent about 4 hours in the school shop on Saturday on these bits...
    (Optional) Step 5A: Improving the Flamethrower

    I did a rough sizing cut mark on the tip of the screwdriver handle. The tip will go, along with most of the body.

    I used a simple hacksaw to slice through the tip of the screwdriver, discarding the tip when done.

    The screwdriver handle was secured to a big drill press, which will substitute for a lathe. I turned on the drill press and used a small file to profile the tapering tip to a shape I was happy with. The speed and spinning action of the drill press should ensure a uniform and symmetrical shape.

    Next, I put the handle in a vise and used progressively larger drill bit sizes to enlarge the hole. This particular piece will be fitted to the larger 1/4" OD aluminum pipes that come with the gauntlets, so it will need quite a large hole.

    The original holes for the bits were a little off-centre, and my drilling hasn't helped that situation at all.

  17. #42

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)


    Time to break out the rotary tool! I've got an old Dremel XPS kit with several attachments, a Dremel accessory kit, and a Canadian Tire brand rotary tool kit ($9.00 for 300 pieces!!).

    I used a couple different bits to widen and center the hole. Here is a diamond-embedded grinding bit on the Dremel. I also used a carbide cylindrical cutter bit and an aluminum oxide tapered grinding stone bit to shape the hole, until...

    ...the aluminum tube fits in the hole!

    Back to the drill press to smooth out the cuts! I used a honing stone and honing oil (found in the tool aisle of your local Home Depot) to polish the sides...

    ... and the cut surface tip. Polishing against the stone on the level working surface of the drill press should ensure a square and uniform cut tip. Be careful when doing this step, as the honing stone has a tendency to 'walk' and 'jump' a bit if you apply too much pressure.

    Last step is to slice off the portion you want from the rest of the handle. I used a hobby mitre box secured to a vise and a matching coping saw to do this. Aluminum is soft enough that the steel saw will cut through it without losing much tooth or sharpness. Using a mitre box will ensure a smooth 90 degree cut on the other side of the piece we need.

    Here's a shot of our finished piece alongside the original resin part.

    Another shot of both the aluminum and resin pieces on the 1/4 " aluminum tubing from the gauntlet kit.

    This is a pure stroke of luck. rooting through my scale modelling tools at home, I found a ****** old pin vise (definitely not the one I regularly use for scale modelling). Its tip is remarkably similar in shape and size to the resin piece seen above it. With minimal shaping and drilling, it was a perfect replacement to the resin. You might be able to find a similar pin vise in the tool section of a larger hobby shop for about $10. It was just kicking around, so YOINK! On to the flamethrower it goes!

    Here's all the pieces I shaped alongside their resin counterparts.

    And here's a parting shot of the pieces dry-fitted to assemble the flamethrower. You can see that I'm already working on the tip of the bottom tube. The replacement tip is just a pen tip from Staples (Zebra brand F-701 stainless steel ball point pen). The polished stainless steel will need some sanding/wire brushing to take away the polished look. I'll work on that (along with some other things) tomorrow in the shop. Watch for another update tomorrow night. Until then, Happy Holidays!

  18. #43

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    totally awesome man! love it!

  19. #44

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Bad day at the 'office'. I spent the day weathering my soft parts. Some went really good, some went disastrous. No real progress to speak of on the gauntlets today, though. I will have another report tomorrow.

  20. #45

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    (Optional) Step 5B: Further Improvements to the Flamethrower
    I might be getting a little on the obsessive side now...

    Here's the flamethrower tip I'm working on. Like I said in a previous post, I'm using the stainless steel tip of a pen from Staples (Zebra F-701). I roughed it up a bit using a stainless steel brush on the Dremel. It gives it a nicely worn and hi-temp 'bluing' effect on the steel. I might still do that to the two washers on the right. Speaking of which, These are just two 5/16" washers. I bolted them together on a 5/16 nut and bolt, and strapped it into the trusty old drill press. Using a big brand-new file, the taper on both edges was acheived in about 2 minutes.
    Digging through a variety bag of brass and aluminum scratchbuilding pipe from my local hobby store (less than $20, and it will come in handy for future armor scale modelling projects), I found a piece of brass that nicely sleeved onto both the screw end of the pen tip and the thinner aluminum flamethrower barrel. A little epoxy or solder, and it'll be done!

    Here's a pic of a very hasty dry-fit. I know that the washers and the knurled aluminum part are a little off-centre, but I'll centre them during actual assembly. I'm pretty satisfied with this.

    Now, say hello to my new gas cylinders! They're cheap brass darts from a 3-pack (coincidence? ) from a game/dart/billiards shop. They are pretty much the exact length of the resin gas cylinders, but a little on the skinny side. I briefly considered throwing them on the flamethrower as-is, but that just wouldn't be good enough . Just like so many other things, they were thrown on the drill press for a quick 'skinnification' before the next step.

    I bought a 1-foot length of brass tube from the old hobby shop that fitted very nicely and tight around the dart barrels. Using some Vernier calipers, I measured the distance between the ends and cut the brass tube to length using my hobby mitre saw set.

    I'm also cutting some rings from yet another 1-foot brass tube length that sleeved perfectly around the previous brass tube. Yeah, I have lots more cutting to do. Catcha later!

  21. #46
    Nate's Avatar
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    Oct 2012
    From
    Saugerties, New York
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    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    This...is...amazing!!!

  22. #47
    clonecollector's Avatar
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    Dec 2007
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    Northeast U.S.A
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    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Awesome metal upgrades to the flamethrower! I love all the little detail you're putting into this!

  23. #48

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Ok kiddo's, kind of a mish-mash last couple of days in the workshops...
    (optional) Step 5C: More Flamethrower Work
    All the tubes and rings are cut (finally!) for the gas cartridges. Time to glue them in place.

    I'm using a JB Weld-type 2 part epoxy for this (it claims to bond any metals together). Should work fine for a brass to brass connection. Just a little is all you need. I mixed well, and used a toothpick to smear it on the brass dart parts. I then twisted on the brass sleeve, only to ensure even spreading of the epoxy between the brass tube and the dart.

    Any excess epoxy that was pushed out was cleaned up with an acetone soaked cotton bud. Nail polish remover works in a pinch.

    To create a more 'seamless' join between the tube and the dart, I filled it with some Bondo spot filler putty. Before applying, I mixed in a few drops of acetone to thin down the spot filler. Excess was cleaned off with an acetone-soaked paper towel and a cotton bud. After looking at my handiwork about 6 hours later, another application may be necessary to ensure all those little gaps are filled.

  24. #49

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    (Optional) Step 6: Improving the ESB Whipcord Launcher
    Lots of stuff here on TDH on the hose attachment schematics for the ROTJ whipcord launcher, but nothing so far on the ESB version. Now to me, this thing sort of reminds me of a barbecue lighter... so I picked one up at random.

    My intention is to replace the molded tube in the launcher with something a little different. Time to slice it out!

    Here's a shot of the cut-out tube and its eventual replacement. I'll use the tip of the lighter and leave some of the vent holes exposed, just for a little interest.

    I wanted a look that said that there is most certainly some sort of tube in this housing. I cut a channel for the lighter tube to sit inside with the dremel.

    I sliced off the tip of the lighter (no explosions or fire, so we'll count ourselves lucky ) with the dremel cutoff wheel.

    This pic doesn't really show it too well, but the lighter tube is a little too tall for the narrow end of the launcher. I had to grind the bottom down a wee bit.

    That wee bit ended up being almost an hour of me working it against a file and test-fitting.

    Here's the piece sitting in its new home.

    And I finally got it to sit flush inside.
    I am seriously considering grinding off the white parts of the top of the whipcord launcher and replacing it with some plasticard cut to shape. Looking at the ESB gallery, they seem a little out-of-shape. However, I think I'll leave the dental file nubs at the back of the launcher as they are. According to Darth Voorhees, he always seems to be snagging and losing his during troops.

  25. #50

    Re: MOW Gauntlets for beginners (like me!)

    Step 7: Drilling holes for the Darts, Switches, and Light
    I don't recall who it was, but someone long ago started a thread here called "ESB Gauntlet Greeblie Help". The interested party was asking about the button/switch on the right gauntlet. It turned out to be part of a 1970's era Eveready pocket flashlight. Looking at the Super Trooper B/W footage, the light was still operational, and in fact the intact flashlight body may actually be a part of the right gauntlet. I'm going to try and at least replicate that functionality using an LED and a slider switch capped with the button that comes with the MOW gauntlet kit.

    The detail in this section is really 'soft'. I'm going to cut out that section and replace it with a piece of plasticard with an LED bulb embedded in it. I started by drilling out the corners.

    Hate to jump from start to finish, but I forgot to take pics. I spent a long time grinding out the resin and fiberglass behind it to get to this stage. I used small files and fingernail emery boards to square off and sand out this section.

    Yes, a long time grinding out this section. I need to make room for the backing plasticard plate, the LED itself, the resistor, and the slide switch. Somewhere inside of this, I'll need to fit a 9V battery for a power source too.

    Looks like I got a little too excited with the dremel. A little Bondo ought to fix that right up.

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