Liquid Mask help!!!

ArmoSpetsnaz

New Hunter
Hey guys,
This is my first post so please dont rip me apart too bad...
I'm stuck at home with a broken foot so I have working non-stop on my fett costume (and consuming copious amounts of fermented hops and barley! :cheers ). I am now in the painting phase of the armor and I already have the silver coats down. I recently purchased the liquid masking compound and tested it out. The problem is that it either:
a) won't peel off after it has been painted over
or
b) removes the coat of paint that it was covering when I remove it.

Is there anyone out there that can help me get this stuff off without removing the underlying paint coats???

Thanks guys!!
 
Wow, I've never had that problem before. I used liquid mask on my FP V2 armor and it came off nice and easy... just used a rubber eraser to remove it. What kind of paint are you using?
 
Gotta agree with Chief. I've had nothing but good results every time I used liquid mask. What brand are you using????? Also, as Chief said, you almost gotta use the rubber pickup eraser, or its a bugger to get it off. I'm also curious what brand of paint you are using. Give us some more details & maybe we can help;)
D
 
ditto to them, 'cept i use my fingers more than the rubber eraser (though i do use the eraser sometimes)

maybe the silver isn't gripping the helmet well?
 
What kind of material is the helmet made from? If its the don post and your using spray paints, that could be the reason.
 
Yeah. I did have one thought. What is the temp where you are painting???? I know in the past, I've sometimes had trouble with paint not sticking well if it is chilly out. Most paint manufacturers recomend painting in 76 degrees or higher. Also, what kind of prep work are you doing before you paint???? If you don't have a very clean surface, that sometimes will screw things up for you. I usually prepare surfaces with a scuff pad, then wipe everything down with wax/grease remover (available in most autobody sections)
 
Thanks for all the help so far!
I am using "NOW" brand # 21201 Aluminum colored spray paint. I am laying it over 3 coats of sanded automotive primer. It's warm and sunny where I live, so I dont think that temperature plays a factor. The plastics that I am working with are sintra and PVC.

Does the metallic paint need more time to cure than regular paint? I am giving it like 2 days before applying the masking compound. Then I am allowing the masking compound to cure overnight before adding the next coat of paint.

I am using Hobbico brand MasterMask liquid masking film.

I think I'll go pick up one of those erasers and try that out!!! Thanks!
 
Then I am allowing the masking compound to cure overnight before adding the next coat of paint.

i bet that's your problem...

the longer the latex sits, the harder it is to get off.

i usually let it sit for about 15 minutes then paint. i peel it off as soon as the paint is dry enough to not mess it up from handling... a couple of hours tops.
 
Thanks 7602!!
I'll give that a try.

fett5.jpg


fett4.jpg


fett3.jpg


fett2.jpg


fett1.jpg


I dont think that this is too bad for 2 weeks of part time work!
The flight suit still needs the correct pockets, sleeves, and stitching...
The shin tools are still in progress.
I think the boots came out great! I am adding the spikes today.
...and then there's the armor!!! :angry this will be my downfall if I cant get the dang paint right.

Well, let me know what y'all think!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i bet that's your problem...

the longer the latex sits, the harder it is to get off.

i usually let it sit for about 15 minutes then paint. i peel it off as soon as the paint is dry enough to not mess it up from handling... a couple of hours tops.

Oh yeah....I agree 100% Alot of times I will take that stuff off as soon as possible!!! As soon as your top coat of paint is dry, get it off!!! Definaltey use a rubber pickup / rubber cement eraser!!!

The silver on the other hand, I dunno. For some reason I've had trouble with alluminum colors not sticking the best....I dunno if that plays a factor or not. I use chrome bumper paint from plasticoat, and yeah, you do need to let that dry for a while. It is possible that it is the mask, although I think most of them are pretty much the same. The stuff I use is called incredible white mask from hobby lobby. Goes on fairly thin. If possible, I would try it again on a scrap piece of material. That way you won't hve to sand your armour all the way down in case it still doesn't work. See what happens if you remove the mask as early as possible. If that still doesn't work, then you might wanna think about switching your base silver, and or possibly trying a differnt brand of masking fluid. Good luck!!
D
 
I always put a coat of Krylon matte finish over every coat of paint so if the liquid mask does peel anything it grabs that matte coat layer.

Just my 2 cents
 
I just tried it by letting it sit for only a few minutes and it worked BEAUTIFULLY!!! I just got done spraying the top coat on my shoulder bells. I'll post the pics tonight or tomorrow! THANKS AGAIN!! (7602 and Kid)

I'll try using the matte coat idea for the main armor! Thanks Delta75!
 
Definaltey use a rubber pickup / rubber cement eraser!!!

The stuff I use is called incredible white mask from hobby lobby. Goes on fairly thin.

I'm thinking of trying this masking method. They make specific erasers for the masking fluid???

Which section of Hobby Lobby should I look for the incredible white mask in?
 
Can I use normal liquid latex (like you'd use for costume parts) in place of the masking fluid? I already have some liquid latex around the house. That stuff peels off everything, including skin, with no effort.

Well, after going to 3 hobby shops, I finally found one that carried the proper US Medium Green today, so I'm going to start painting the armor soon. It's already primed and "silvered" just waiting for me to find the correct green to work with. :lol:
 
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