Here's the recipe. Sorry for the "Cheezy" diagram,
it doesn't get any more "Lame" than the one posted below, but I hope it helps .... any questions, feel free to post
them or PM me.
Qty 2 - Radio Shack Cat. #276-086A "Jumbo"
5000 mcd light output, 1.82 volt, 20 mA.
Qty 2 - Radio Shack 360 Ohm resistors, 1/2 watt, 5 % Tolerance.
Qty 1 - 9 volt battery
QTY 1 - 9 volt battery harness
Some 18 - 20 gauge scrap wire, stranded, not solid ( lots of bending ), velcro, soldering iron, solder and super glue.
The Blaster Barrels are the only problem I can see if
anyone else wants to put this together. My Gauntlets are a
MB and RA Combo with a few mods on top of that ... the Blaster Barrels are MB. For those of you who don't own a set of them, it's a "Solid" cast resin piece. Both Barrels
combined. I just used a 3/8 drill bit to drill straight through both barrel holes back to front, using extreme care not to damage the "THIN" resin barrel rims, as they are only a bit bigger than the 3/8 bit, and you run a risk of chipping them. If you are using your own barrels like copper water tubing, or air fittings, you already have this part made, as they most likely already have holes going straight through, and are big enough for this purpose.
The side Blaster attachment on my left gaunt is made of Sintra, and is now permanently sealed and putty'd because of the mounting to the side of the gaunt. So no inside pics.
After mounting the side blaster but before it was sealed, I drilled a small hole toward the rear area from the blaster through to the inside of the gaunt where your arm slides in.
This is to route the LED wires to the 9 Volt battery source mounted with velcro on top toward the front of the inside of the gaunt.
I glued 1 LED into the back of each blaster barrel hole, then soldered 2 sets of 18 or 20 gauge wire, one set for
each LED. I soldered (1) 360 ohm resistor on the positive side of each LED, then covered each solder point with shrink wrap. I then routed the wire, as seen in the "Cheezy" diagram, using super glue to tac it in route to the battery source.
The switches are customized, not the standard RS momentary switches ... the standard switches are "Normally Closed",
which means if you use them, the lights will remain "ON" until you press the switch. So I purchased a set that was
"Normally Open", so the lights would light up when you press the switch. HOWEVER, these switches were ALLOT smaller, with no head on them. So I epoxied the button tops from the standard switches, onto the smaller ones. It even looks better I think, as the necks of the switches do not sit as high. A wee bit more true to the real thing.
I don't have the CAT # of the Switches, but it shouldn't be too hard, they're the only "SMALL SIZED" momentary "Normally Open" switches they carry .... can't be missed. Comes in a package of 4, 2 red, and 2 black.
Hope this helps
I recommend saving this pic to your PC/MAC (don't want to offend any mac users out there, I gob both ways too -- RESIST THE URGE TO COMMENT ON THAT ONE so that you can get a closer look at it.