Yet another thread from me, and once again with too many pictures.
This one is all about how i strapped my hard-harness. And as there's not many threads about this matter around i figured i'd try to cover it the best i can. So without further ado, let's get into it.
1) For an ESB Harness the webbing i used is a 2 inches wide seatbelt webbing with a four stripes pattern as recommanded in this thread: http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f20/n...up-list-36387/
a. First, after each cut i always made sure i stop the fraying by using the flamme of a lighter to merge the extremity.
b. c. d. Then i started to sew the straps that wrap around your shoulders. Before every stitching i made a fold with the webbing for more strenght and "cleaner" look.
3) I cut my strap 50cm away from the metal harness just to be sure to have enough material.
4) If one of the extremity of this strap is sewn to the metal harness, the other end ends with two D-rings.
a. First of all, i sew a loop of webbing around one of the D-ring.
b. Then i fed the extremity of the shoulder strap through the D-ring without the loop in first, and after that the one with the loop.
c. After that i folded and sew the strap's extremity.
d. e. Very important!! There must be an offset between the two D-rings at the end of the strap. The underneath D-ring must be lower than the upper one. This is where the little webbing loop i sew before around the second D-ring comes into play.
Side note: The D-rings i'm using aren't very accurate. Mine are 10mm high whereas the ones on the original harness were more likely 30mm high.
a. The finished shoulder strap for me is 34cm long.
b. The two shoulder straps sewn.
6) To determine how long these shoulder straps should be, their extremity should end around your armpits.
7) Now the second part of the shoulder straps. I folded a strap and sew it around the bottom buckle. This is the strap that will allow you to adjust the harness to your size so you need some slack here. For me the strap is 50cm long.
a. Before feeding the strap through the two D-rings previously sewn, i fed my strap through a slider.
b. Then i joined the two parts of the shoulder strap together. The strap goes under the two D-rings, ...
c. ... is folded on itself and goes again between the two D-rings which locks it on.
a. Put the harness on and pull the strap until it fits you.
b. You can now secure the excess by feeding it through the slider.
c. Basically the slider only serves to prevent the slack from the strap to flap around.
10) The Belt part of the harness. FMF has done an awesome tutorial about this part of the strapping and i basically just reproduced it.
a. Now that the shoulder straps were done, i sew the loose end of the belt around the right/hand bottom buckle of the jetpack harness.
b. This strap is the one that goes around your waist and is tightened by the Divers buckle. To measure it, just put on the harness and wrap it around your waist. Once again, don't be afraid to leave some slack just in case you put on some weight.
a. After that, the last strap remaining was the one securing the Divers buckle. This strap is also the one that allows you to adjust the Divers buckle position so it stays nicely centered on your abdomen.
b. c. I fed the strap through the buckle as pictured.
a. b. c. The only difference with what FMF has done, is that i added a fold at the buckle's end to lock it on because without it, when i was pulling on the buckle to tighten the belt around my waist it was sliding off the belt. It even happen to fall by just hanging at the end of the strap.
a. b. Once the Divers buckle was installed, i fed the strap's other end through the triglide. You can also use a slider of the same type used for the shoulder straps if you don't have any triglide, it will just be a bit less accurate.
c. Then i looped the end of the strap around the left/hand bottom buckle of the harness.
d. And finally i fed back the strap through the triglide to secure it.
a. b. c. Now to adjust it at my waist circumference i put on the harness, and while i maintained the Divers buckle centered i just pulled on the strap going through the triglide until there was no slack left.
d. You can now feed the other end of the belt through the Divers buckle and tighten it and the buckle will stay nicely centered. Done!
The whole rig on my Duct tape mannequin. As you can see, the fact the bottom buckles on the Harness are rectangular and not parallelograms is messing with how the straps lay of the body.
After all that, i still needed to sew the straps from which the jetpack upper hooks will be hanging on.
a. b. For that i dressed in my flightsuit and put on my harness rig.
a. Then i fitted my flack vest over the harness. The bottom transversal aluminium bar should feed through the bottom letter boxes on the flack vest. If the letterboxes and aluminium bar aren't at the same height, just adjust the harness up or down using the two shoulder straps.
b. c. Once the flak vest is on the harness is pretty much invisible.
d. For me the Divers buckle is mostly hidden under the flack vest. This is combinaison of different things: the fact i'm very thin, the bottom harness buckle are rectangular instead of paralellograms, and the fact the horizontal aluminium is mounted lower on the harness frame that what the original was.
a. b. Through the shoulder letter boxes on the flak vest i located the harness' shoulder straps and placed little pieces of tape to mark the corresponding level.
c. I removed everything and used the pieces of tape as guides to know at which level the letter boxe on the flak vest sits in relation of my harness, and then sew my white jetpack straps accordingly. On a side note, it's better to sew the straps too above the tape mark than slightly below. My straps are 38mm wide Cotton Webbing in an Off White color.
d. The two jetpack straps sewn.
e. Once sewn, i fed the straps through the letter boxes on the flak vest to check that everything was lining good.
The end of the full rig will have to wait until i receive my backplate and jetpack.