Garbage can armor, REALLY!

I used a heat gun to heat up a spoon, then pushed it into the plastic. I tested a scrap piece with just the heat gun, but if it gets too soft it just makes a mess. Heating something else gives you a little more control, also it creates a rougher edge versus a sunken spot. A'den Kyramud used a ball peen hammer heated up, so anything metal and rounded. Just make sure if you use a spoon that you wrap the handle with a rag cuz it gets HOT! Good luck. Im out of town til friday, but am ready to get back to work on my armor.
 
Another way that might work for doing at least minor wear and weathering is to use 00 steel wool and carefully sand away paint until the undercoat shows through. I've used this method before on a (new series) BSG blaster that was painted black over a coat of silver and I really liked the results, it really made the gun look worn from lots of use especially since the sanding allowed me great control of how much silver I wanted to reveal. It also has the secondary benefit of changing the texture of the paint as well, the black was a semi-gloss that was actually pretty glossy and a light sanding with the steel wool dulled it down to where it looked a lot like blued metal. This method would probably would work best for areas that you want to look like the paint has been worn off over time as opposed to chipped off.
 
Hey everyone! (first post wheee!)... ahem, anyway, that armor looks amazing! I've heard of people making armor out of trash bins before, but never saw the finished product. I must say I'm impressed, and I may have to try this since it seems no place in Virginia sells sintra and they all look at me like I'm crazy when I ask for it, hehe.
 
Wow, I've found another thread I have to watch, so far I only have my chest pieces, no back or collar nor cod, but seeing that heat will make the back work, I will go for the back soon... Can you remember which trash can you got for the back? I did the walmart thing like the other thread, but Target is like 2 block's farther than my walmart which is only 2 blocks from my house anyway.

Oh yeah, GREAT WORK!!
 
Ok. Im back after a very cold mission to Minnesota. I got to work on the back plate, and here are some update pics, (again this is practice for my upcoming ESB, so I am experimenting with colors and techniques, so its not accurate):
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This is the side. I figure in a real suit, this area would get a lot of wear and tear.
P1010304.jpg

still needs more sanding, and some charcoal blaster marks after that.

Riceball: I have been using fine sandpaper(1000 grit) is steel wool similar? I like the way it totally changes the surface.

essko: Welcome to TDH. I broke your post cherry! If you have any questions about anything, feel free to pm me.

adonian: I couldnt find the label from the can I got, but I will try to find it. I feel as long as you look at the can and it has the right kind of shape to it, then go for it.

...and thanks to all for your positive comments. I enjoy constructive criticism, good and bad. More to come...
 

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Riceball: I have been using fine sandpaper(1000 grit) is steel wool similar? I like the way it totally changes the surface.

Probably, 00 steel wool is like a very fine and soft steel wool and it probably works similarly to 1,000 grit sandpaper. I really liked the way it dulled a shiny semi-gloss surface into something a lot less shiny but smooth surface.
 
I practiced on some sanding techniques today.
P1010318.jpg

I used different grits to cut thru the top layer and reveal the middle blue layer. I am going over that again with the 1000 grit wet to get a nice weathered, but smooth look. I dont have access to an airbrush, so I am looking for advice on what kind of charcoal to get to do the blaster flashes by hand?
Any thoughts are appreciated.
 

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Artist's charcoal would probably work for what you want, they come in stick form (similar to chalk) and and a more natural form (like a burnt stick) with varying degrees of hardness. You can find them at any decent art store like Aaron Bros or Michael's, just look in the paint/artist supplies section and you'll find them there. After you're done applying the charcoal just be sure to apply something like Dull Coat or a clear coat to seal the charcoal otherwise it will just simply brush right off.

If you already have your flightsuit this would be an excellent opportunity to weather that a little too by wearing while doing the blaster flashes on your armor. Working with charcoal is a messy business and charcoal dust would make for an excellent weathering agent for the flightsuit although I think it might wash out of most clothing; it's been a long while since I've last used charcoal so I don't remember how well it stains in the long term.
 
Great. I have plenty of charcoal sticks, in many colors. I use them to draw with. I was unsure if I could use them, but with a clear coat, that seems pretty easy. Thanks for the info. Since I dont have to go get anything, Im going to start on it now.
 
Well I added some charcoal flashes and sanded a bit more. It is hard to see and it doesn't show up as much because the armor is dark brown, so I was kinda disappointed, but certain colors don't look as well next to each other. (an example would be in FettDads paint up, the charcoal black against the yellow shoulder looks amazing, the contrast is good. Brown and black are just to close to look as good, IMO.) Also I would have added less battle damage, the more there is, the less realistic it looks I think. I am still fairly happy with what I have done for my first attempt. I need a flightsuit or something to put this on so I can see what to do next. I really enjoy both the masking techniques and the revealing techniques of painting and sanding.
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dankenman, that is one of the best trash can armour builds I have ever seen!!!:cheers Splendid work!!! You backplate is amazing!!!(y)(y)(y) I'm on my third go at a backplate, and it's just not working :facepalm:wacko:confused. Any tips or tricks I might not know?

Awesome stuff!!!
:cheers
A'den
 
Patience and a heat gun my friend. Basically I heated it up, molded it, and ran it under cold water to solidify. I just kept repeating that process, and working my way around it until I was satisfied. Also I found that when you run cold water on one side when it is hot, that side shrinks a bit faster than the other. So if you need to bend an area a little more, run cold water on the side you want to shrink. If you just dip it in cold water, it will re-solidify just as it is. Don't get me wrong, it wasn't easy, and got a bit frustrating. Thanks for everyone's kind words, and don't sell yourself short A'den Kyramud, I have seen your work and it is excellent!
 
dankenman, that is one of the best trash can armour builds I have ever seen!!!:cheers Splendid work!!! You backplate is amazing!!!(y)(y)(y) I'm on my third go at a backplate, and it's just not working :facepalm:wacko:confused. Any tips or tricks I might not know?

Awesome stuff!!!
:cheers
A'den

Not trying to hijack, but what part of the backplate are you having problems with? If you use the Sterilyte can and put the back armor pattern on one full side, the lower piece will have the perfect curve and the only parts that will need bending are the shoulders. What I did was, as dankenman said, use heat - specifically a blowtorch lightly passing over to heat it up. I had it on my mannequin to help with the forming. USE GLOVES!!! I used a roll of duct tape to roll it into shape, and then taped the newly formed shoulders to the mannequin to allow it to cool in the right form. Any tape adhesive that comes off because of the heat can be sanded off before you paint.

David.
 
looks great! i've seen some beautiful sets of fett and custom armor built from trashcans. i've never tried it myself. my only apprehension with the trashcan armor is how thin it is. it just doesn't have the depth i think of when i think of armor plating. personally, i prefer the 3mm sintra although when properly formed, i've seen vac formed armor that gives the illusion of being thicker than it is due to rolled edges.

can't wait to see your progress here! is this gonna be a fett or a custom project?


i thought the same thing so i double plated mine and sanded the sides,it looks thicker and more armor plate liek lol course this requires another trashcan and i was originally makeing a custom mando for my friend when he decided to do something else but yeah just my 2c
 
Originally posted by Jaiden:
Not trying to hijack, but what part of the backplate are you having problems with? If you use the Sterilyte can and put the back armor pattern on one full side, the lower piece will have the perfect curve and the only parts that will need bending are the shoulders. What I did was, as dankenman said, use heat - specifically a blowtorch lightly passing over to heat it up. I had it on my mannequin to help with the forming. USE GLOVES!!! I used a roll of duct tape to roll it into shape, and then taped the newly formed shoulders to the mannequin to allow it to cool in the right form. Any tape adhesive that comes off because of the heat can be sanded off before you paint.
Nice tip. I am going to try that on my next one. Do you have any problems heating with the torch? I would think a blowtorch would be a bit more difficult than a heat gun. With the heat gun there is no flame and the heat is very controllable. I'm just saying if you are looking to purchase something, the heat gun is more of a controllable tool, IMO. Also this material cools fairly quickly, but I still think cold water is great. It will re-solidify the piece almost instantly.

kbfett: Welcome to TDH, I hope you enjoy this forum as much as I do.

Cod'ika:How did you attach the two pieces together?
 
Originally posted by Jaiden:
Not trying to hijack, but what part of the backplate are you having problems with? If you use the Sterilyte can and put the back armor pattern on one full side, the lower piece will have the perfect curve and the only parts that will need bending are the shoulders. What I did was, as dankenman said, use heat - specifically a blowtorch lightly passing over to heat it up. I had it on my mannequin to help with the forming. USE GLOVES!!! I used a roll of duct tape to roll it into shape, and then taped the newly formed shoulders to the mannequin to allow it to cool in the right form. Any tape adhesive that comes off because of the heat can be sanded off before you paint.
Nice tip. I am going to try that on my next one. Do you have any problems heating with the torch? I would think a blowtorch would be a bit more difficult than a heat gun. With the heat gun there is no flame and the heat is very controllable. I'm just saying if you are looking to purchase something, the heat gun is more of a controllable tool, IMO. Also this material cools fairly quickly, but I still think cold water is great. It will re-solidify the piece almost instantly.

kbfett: Welcome to TDH, I hope you enjoy this forum as much as I do.

Cod'ika:How did you attach the two pieces together?
 
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