GA Jet Pack Questions

Ive just got round to thinking how to assemble my GA Fiberglass jet pack, but it didnt come with any instructions.

Haanyone done one already and would help me out or are there any tutorials out there?

I would be interested in them also.I am about to start on one myself,if it ever gets here.

If yours came marked with trim lines, use a Dremel with a cutting wheel and cut off the excess FG. If you have access to a belt or electric sander, use it to sand all of the rough edges. Lay the JP flat on the ground periodically to make sure you are sanding it evenly. Use some fine grit sandpaper to smooth out any imperfections to the outer shell. You may need to Bondo any low spots. You will need to get a wooden dowel rod to use for the axle (I can't remember the diameter). Cut out the holes on the sides and run it through until you have just enough sticking out of each end to attach the thrusters. Mark the dowel and cut off the excess. Once that is done, lay the sheet of styrene over the back and trace the outline onto it. When you go to trim it, leave a little excess on the sides since the concave of the JP will draw them in a bit. If you don't, you'll end up with gaps. Decide on how you are going to mount the straps to your harness before you glue the back on. I wrapped my straps around the dowel rod. Once everthing is finished, go ahead and primer it. I recommend painting all of the individual pieces BEFORE you glue/bolt them into place. I also recommend replacing the solid jets with plastic spray bottles (there is a thread on this topic).

This is kind of a rough explanation, and I am sure I am leaving steps out. If you need anything clarified, post the questions here.

Thx man

What else can I use to cover the back ?I didn't get a piece of sintra to cover the back of the pack.

Go to Lowes and get a "FOR RENT" sign. I think they're 8 bucks.

Thanks .But isn't that a bit thin? Does anyone have progress pics of the assembly of the GA pack? How do you attach the harness connectors without them pulling through?And do you just glue the back on ?
Thanks

Sorry but I didn't take any progress pics.

I used nylon straps for mine. I wrapped them around the wooden rod and used the 'strap adjustment' pieces of the plastic buckles to anchor the straps on there and ran the other ends out of slits I cut in the back cover. Make sure they are TIGHT before you glue the back on. Mine came loose everytime I wore it. I recommend either gluing or sewing the ends of the straps together (above the dowel rod) inside of the jet pack. If you do it right, then you won't need to cut an access hole in the back cover like most of us eventually ended up doing. But hey, even the real ROTJ jet pack had an access hole in it.

As far as gluing the back cover on, I used Goop (even though I hate Goop) and Bondo'ed in the gaps. I think the For Rent sign would be too thin (if it is the same kind I am thinking of). I'd get something that is at least 1/8" think. Walk the isles of the mega home improvements stores, and I am sure you'll find something you can use.

I just got my GA fg Jango Arena pack and I was wondering how you guys that have GA packs have attached your backing plate to the pack?

Fiber glass, bondo, both, other?

Any body got any tips or recommendtions for attaching it?
Lynn

I epoxied small aluminum "L" brackets to the sides of the pack(inside).Then I drilled and riveted the back plate on .Then I used hot glue(not regular stuff,the stuff that comes in the Craftsman hot caulk kit.Formula 100 I think.)to cover the seams.Then I used a razor to cut the glue down flush.Next I used GOOP to fill in any seams .There is probably a better way but it worked pretty well.

Pantera... thanks for the tips!!
I like the "L" shaped bracket idea....
Do you got any pics of your pack?

Did you make any kind of frame work for the harness system to attach to inside the pack before you attached the backing plate? Or is your harness attaching system directly attached to the backing plate?
Thanks again,
Lynn

Lynn,
Unfortunately I didn't take any progress pics.What I did for the harness is I ran a pvc pipe through the jet pack to attach the thrusters.I looped 1"nylon straps around the pipe and sewed them.I then ran the straps up and behind a second piece of pvc pipe that I epoxied into the pack.The straps then come out of the pack through small holes cut into the plastic.I then attached seat belt ends ,out of a Mustang(I installed racing harnesses years ago) ,to the ends of the straps.I just looped it through and sewed it .The seat belt ends work PERFECT!They are small and very easy to attach.I adjusted the straps so that the seat belt ends just barely stick out of the pack.I made my harness so that I can attach the pack then pull it tight and attach it to itself.After wearing it for several hours on Halloween night,It is the part of the costume I am happiest with.
Hope this helps,

Ron
TK/BH-1889

Ron,
That sounds like a plan, I gotta a bunch of PVC pipe here I'll start to experament with.
Thanks!!

Do you have pics of your pack on you?
Lynn

These are the only pics I have of my suit so far .There's a couple of the pack on me.Enjoy.

http://groups.msn.com/JangoBear/pant...nw?albumlist=2

that looks great!! thanks for the pics...

Pantara, I did the exact same thing when I built up my first GA glass pack.The "L" brackets made it rock solid too.A definite way to go for a long term,worry free attachement method Lynn

Steve

Thanks Steve!! Did you guys use the same sized "L" brackets, or different sizes for different areas of the pack? Approximatly how many did you use to do it?

Lynn

I think I used six brackets.All the same size. I used 1/8 "X 3/4"alumininum.

I went a little hog wild with the brackets.I used steel "L" brackets found in Home Depot. 1" X 1" and there were 4 across the top,4 on each side,and 4 on bottom.All those were hardly necessary,but it was my first pack,and I didn't want it coming apart.I guess with 16 steel brackets it never will

Steve

That is sooooooo awesome!!

the l brackets is definately your best bet

For pics and almost complete instructions of not just Boba Fett costuming, but for other few character in the saga...go to Obi-Wan's Jedi Academy (www.jedi-academy.com). From the main page, go to the "costuming tips" link, then choose your character (Boba Fett), and from there choose the "Jet Pack" link ,and so on. You could choose which part of the armor do you want to look at. It could be used as Jango as well, cause the site refers of tips of how to construct and progress of each individual part of the Bounty Hunters' armor, literally, from head to toes, from scratch (Note: Minus the boots, cause I just looked at it and there is no boots reference at all). Hope this helps everyone.

This is a little bit late for the topic, but I believe that the JP I've been working on is a GA Jet Pack ( i bought it from someone on Ebay), but It makes me think is his because I've got almost the same items than in a pic that's somewhere in the JP topic, which includes all items included (minus the greeblies and the closure backing plate). I could tell cause of the shape of the rocket and the nozzle cones made of resin.

I was thinking about the "FOR RENT" sign, which you have to buy something that it's at least 20" X 20" (that's the biggest you could get), and the thickest available. In that case, I would buy at least 2 signs and glue them together. I had to do the same with a piece of plastic that I ordered from www.usplastic.com and they sended me a really thin sheet of that material (white expanded PVC), I cutted two sheets with the shape of the back of the JP and I glued them together (I did this today). Sorry that I didn't take the opportunity to take progress pics, but I'll be doing them sooner now that I'm still like 40% done with the JP...now is a great opportunity to do so. I'll be posting pics soon this week.

Robert

By the way...I think GA have the tutorial already at www.jedi-academy.com Depends on your JP if it's vacuuformed or fiberglass...if its VF, you'll need a 3" PVC pipe core and cut it to size from top where the hole is to be made (from the inside) to bottom of JP where the bottom grill is located at; or a 2" PVC pipe (same procedure) for the Fiberglass version, due to the fact that fiberglass has a tendency that it's thicker in the inside due to the FG fillaments and solution thickness and less space to work with than the vacuuformed version. Trust me, I know this for a fact , cause my JP is Fiberglass and I tried all this already, and that's the best way to do it even if you don't have all parts available...You have to improvise.

I didn't use the resin cast nozzles either, cause they're really thick and they are kinda heavy for the JP, well, just a little...besides I wanted something more realistic, which I used Glade Air Freshners that comes in a white or Ivory color bottle that closes up and down. I used the bottom of the freshners to insert inside the nozzles to make them more realistic, and a little originality to it. The top of the freshners I poped them out (pushing them to the inside) and INVERTED them, back together so the inside could face outside to connect to the nozzle "balls". Sand them as well to "erase" the designs they have in the surface and bottom. Glue everything together, primer them and PRESTO! Ready to paint.

The harness I'm gonna use is an old PRC-25/77 military radio pack harness, with buckles and straps that I bought at a local army surplus store, instead of the "steel wire cable and ferrule" system, wich will create a bulk on your back between your JP and your back armor, not to mention of ruining and scatching your armor and JP as well.


So far, I have already attached the rocket assembly to the JP body inside to the PVC "core" and to the frame, which I had to adapt it as well, slightly different from the website, so it could fit inside without disturbing the space for the closure backing plate, regardless of what do you use for it.

Like I said before, I'll be posting pics pretty soon here of my progress with it and how far I'm done with it, and directions that are not in the Obi-Wan's Jedi Academy's website (like the previous above}. I'll be posting really soon with pics and detailed instructions. Mey The Force Be With You!

Robert

At last...I'm done with the assembling part of the Jet Pack, and what a hassle!!! Now I'm in the process of priming to then start painting it tomorrow or by this weekend (average expected time of completion.

It's unbelievable that this is the very first Fett (costume part) item I have even since before I joined this forum, probably since November last year that I got it, and I signed to TDH in January/February this year. I'll be so happy to finish with this item to continue on with other stuff. I'll be posting my progress in a tutorial way in this thread pretty soon, being taking pics at the same time while in the process of completing this Jet Pack, my sucess and my mistakes.

My advise, get the one from Mardon (highly recommended), RA or Bradley...you don't want to suffer with this one as I did.

Robert

Well, here I come with the step-by-step of assembling the GA's Fiberglass JP.

First of all, I got the JP from a second hand on Ebay, but what I was told, didn't come with all the things you see here, specially the styrene backing plate and greeblies, and I got it just like in the second pic.




You need to buy a 2" PVC pipe for the "core"; 2" PVC pipe coupler (just in case, which I used); 5'X 3/4" PVC pipe for the frame and thruster dowel; 3/4" wood screws; 3/4" PVC pipe brackets; 1/8" or 1/4" thick styrene plastic at least 20" X 20" for the backing plate, or buy two of the thickest plastic signs you could find; phillips and flat tip screwdrivers; hammer drill with bits; dremmel tool with fiberglass cutting wheel; a hot melt Glue Gun and plenty of glue sticks; "Great Stuff" foam filler; nylon strap (aprox. 36", or the lenght you need to use for the belt strap; military buckle and strap set (2) or use the same kind of strap for the belt and buy the plastic buckles at Walmart; fiberglass cloth and resin; Bondo Glazing Putty, Bondo Auto Body Repair Kit; lots of sandpaper of different grits and lots of Cryoacrylite ("Crazy Glue", "Super Glue", etc.) in Gel formula recommended but not necessary...and lots of PATIENCE.

The Rocket assembly came separate from the body, and the body didn't have holes at all. The inside of this JP is really rough, with a lot of Fiberglass resin and fiber hanging around, so be really carefull while working with this (trust me when I say that, I was looking like a wrestler with half of my fingers covered with Band-Aids after dealing with it). Use leather gloves for safety and goggles.

I suggest at this point that if you have the straps and buckles, its better to have them already assembled and ready to put. This is in case if you already have a method of harness system, which I'm using the same one as in BradleyFett's website (the old military radio harness) but with plastic buckles, which are better and easier...less bulky. As of the light beacon, if you have one from BKBT, or either a resin one...you'd better install it NOW to the JP body, making a drill hole and screw it from the inside before installing the frame. It should be already painted (if you decided to do it that way for accuracy), and masked completely.



At this time you should cut the 2" PVC pipe in a way that could fit inside in between the top and the bottom, and that you could rotate that pipe inside with no problems, but really close enough so it could touch the bottom and the top of the body and fit snug while rotate, but not too much, and cut a space at the bottom so the nozzle dowel doesn't interfere with the core, but should basically touch each other, but not too much. Do the same with the 3/4 PVC pipe and cut it in pieces according to the "Obi-Wan's Jedi Academy" website http://www.jedi-academy.com/fett_jet pack4.html But this could be not exactly the same sizes, so you have to figure out the best way and measures to fit in this one, cause the lenght of the two bottom pieces that connects the middle and the bottom pipes were too long to fit inside interfering with the thrusters dowel, so I cut like an extra inch or two of what it says.

I had to buy an extra 3/4" pipe, cause the result was too short to the sides, and too long from top to bottom, so I cut the horizontal pipes large enough, so they could pass the corners from the back edge of the JP which helps in case that the brackets give up for the weight, and the thruster nozzle dowel was too short which should extend at least 1 3/4" - 2" from the side holes to the outside. For this, you'd probably have to assemble the frame inside the JP once you assemble the core.

With the drill and a "door knob hole" bit, aprox. 1 1/2" - 2" diameter, open a hole centered where the rocket assembly should fit, and a little snug. Use a 3/4" drill bit and make the holes on the sides for the thrusters dowel. Once is cut and sanded a little bit, verify that the 2" PVC core fits with it, installing the core first and then the rocket assy. Probably you have to sand down the r.a. bottom so it could fit in the PVC pipe, which I recommend to do this first before you make the hole on top of the JP body and test it with the nozzle dowel. If it fits, proceed to lay the nylon strap around the core, most likely to the bottom area just above the thrusters dowel. We will continue with this later on... NOTE: The following three pics were taken before I noticed that the frame and dowel measures were off proportion, except for the vertical posts of the frame (up and down pieces).



Make 4 drill holes around the PVC core top with the r.a. already installed. Then proceed to use wood screws to secure the r.a. to the core. Rotate as practical which will finish where the gap at the bottom will be facing up. Install the thruster dowel and center it. I had to use the 2" PVC coupler, based on my mistakes the first time, and the r.a didn't fit correctly in the core. Remember that the inside of any PVC pipe is different from the outside, that's where the problem happened here.

Now if you figured out the way to assemble the frame, insert the two strap and buckle assemblies to the top horizontal piece, one in each side, before you glue the frame together.


Make 8 drill holes in the core, already pre-aligned and tested, so you could screw the brackets to secure the frame to the core. This holes should be slightly smaller than the screws, so the screws could fit snug in the holes.



Once this process is made, frame already assembled and r.a. snug in place, apply Bondo Glazing putty around the r.a. so it has no gaps in between the body and the r.a.

After that, glue the tank tops to the body using "Crazy Glue", and once is hardened, proceed with the Bondo Glazing Putty around the caps to get rid of gaps.

Once this is done and wait a couple of days until it dries up, and proceed to sand these areas really good and smooth.

Continue with the body:

Cut leveled the edges of the body using the dremmel tool in the back of the body, which is supposed to be flat and curved (specially in the area close to the r.a.), but be careful with the bottom, that the space in between the panel and the frame doesn't interfere, or you're gonna have hell trying to close the JP. Install brackets around the edges inside the JP body, but you'd probably want to use a hammer to bend a little the brackets that goes in the sides and the bottom (sides are more open, while the bottom ones are like a little closed). Install these brackets the best way you can, and measuring the distance and the angle really carefully, which I used a Glue Gun for this job, after trying with the Super Glue with little or no sucess.

Once it dries up, proceed looking for the styrene or piece of plastic you'e gonna use for the closing backing plate. Lay down the whole JP back facing down on top of the plastic so you could trace with a pencil or marker the shape of the backing plate. Once is traced, cut the shape, and remember to leave at least an extra 1/2 inch left outwards in all directions, specially in the sides and top...you'll notice why later on...if you cut it too short, it will leave a big gap, and we have to try to have the least or smallest gaps possible around the JP body around the sides.

Now, measure the size and distance from the buckles in the frame to make the holes you want in the panel, so you could pop out the buckles thru them. Do the same at the bottom (if applies, depending on the JP harness method).

If you're using any kind of foam filler like "Great Stuff" (which is not exactly necessary), use it just to secure the frame to the core and the body of the JP, this is just to have a sturdy support to the frame from the body, but do not use too much, specially at the bottom (which I made the mistake of doing it), that now i have no way to move the bottom strap.



I did the whole inside with this and now the JP is so heavy. Leave it at least a day or two to dry up and remove the excess foam. It can't pass the level where the panel goes, cause if not, it won't close.

Using the Glue gun or Super glue (whichever method is easier for you), apply the glue to the brackets and quickly but carefully close the back, inserting the buckles first thru the holes before closing. Remember that once this panel closes, there's no way back.



Once it's dried and securely closed, use the dremmel tool and cut the excess plastic, trying not to get from the Fiberglass of the body. Once is done, sand all surfaces, specially around the gaps, and clean it good with a damp cloth or even a brush.

Proceed to prepare the fiberglass cloth and resin. (Note: If you've never worked with Fiberglass resin or car body work, look for help or someone who knows about fiberglass.)Cut the fiberglass cloth to the size needed, and following the FG resin instructions of course, and prepare the resin with enough hardener as needed. If you don't use the hardener as per the instructions, you'd have wet resin on your JP for days, maybe weeks (I learned the hard way). Apply the cloth and resin to close the gaps around the body, and let it dry for about 2 days. Once dried, use the dremmel tool to cut the excess FG filaments and resin from the body, and sand it smooth.

Proceed with the Bondo Repair Kit, applying around the fiberglass work you just did couple of days ago, and make it really flat and smooth as possible. Be advised, this Bondo could dry REALLY, REALLY FAST! Don't use the quantity of hardener it says in the instructions, so you could have enough time to work with it, but still dries up really fast, not more than 2-3 mins. Prepare and use just little at a time. Once it dries up, probably in the next hour, proceed to sand it again smooth.

After all this process, tape up (mask) the straps, which you could have done this earlier after closing the back panel, and prime the whole JP with automotive filler primer, specially Grey color. After that, just sand it and paint it as you go.

Nozzles:

For the nozzles, I didn't use the ones that came with the JP kit, but I used two air fresheners that cost me like .90¢ each. All I had to do is to dissassemble them and sand the outside really good with a fine grit sandpaper, which you need patience.



Once it's used, I take the bottom and cut the excess plastic around and use the very bottom of the a.f. with a hobby knife. The top I just have to pop it out and invert it with the inside out (little tip showing upwards) secured with Super Glue and cutting the excess plastic so it doesn't extend up too much to interfere with the nozzle "balls".



Once I cut the bottoms flat and sand them really good, I inserted these bottoms inside the mail nozzle, with the bottom facing out, creating an "original and realistic" look to the nozzle if you see it from the outside.



Apply the bottoms snug and use Super Glue to leave it fixed to the nozzle inside, and closing any gaps around the piece. Cut two pieces 1/2" long of 3/4" pipe used for the frame, and sand them flat where you just made the cut and around with a fine grit sandpaper, to erase the letters (if any) in the PVC pipe and have a surface that the paint could stick to. Apply these pieces to the stud coming out from the nozzle balls applying Super Glue. Once you're done, just prime them and paint them as you want.

You could make this JP lighter and easier to ship, if you create a way to install the r.a. as a non-permamnent placement, using some kind of "locking-pin" device system from the rear of the JP, and some kind of brackets from the inside of the JP as to attach the buckles or whatever you use as a harness system...that is your option.


Hope this guide will help everyone who has one of these (GA Fiberglass Jet Pack).

Robert

Interesting and information, DV1. I personally didn't use the PVC skeleton as to not make it any heavier than it needs to be. That, and it is pretty sturdy without the need for extra reinforcement like the thinner vacuuformed kits. I just have a wooden dowel rod across the bottom that the thrusters attach to (so they turn together & easier to store without worrying about damaging them). The harness straps are attached to that dowel rod and run out of slits on the back plate. Over a years worth of cons, banging it around, and riding in car trunks and truck beds and it still holding up. My only complaint is that I didn't make the main rocket removable.

I haven't attached the main rocket yet, you recommend that I do not glue it in? How should I do this?

Mine is glued in and puttied, but it would have been nice to have made it removable for transporting purposes. I've seen some vac'd JP's that the rocket assembly kind of twisted into place. I could see doing something like that and maybe adding a removable pin to the back of it (facing your back armor) for a little added insurance.

The tutorial is up and ready updated. Any questions, just ask me. Most of this tutorial was in an experiment phase, which resulted really good with me (at this moment, after all fails, errors and mistakes, not counting the missing parts when I got it).

Robert

I'm almost done with my JP. By this time is 95% done, I'm just waiting on Vash's decals, glue the greeblies and weathering with a steel sponge and taking out the masking tape of the big weathered areas, and a little airbrush technique. I will be posting pics probably today.

Robert

Robert,

What did you use to secure the backplate? I am nervous about pressure from the straps on the backplate and it coming loose.

Great work Robert...i used the same Glade thrusters..

Jedi-Bob wrote:
Robert,

What did you use to secure the backplate? I am nervous about pressure from the straps on the backplate and it coming loose.

Just hot glued the backplate to the brackets and then sealed around with fiberglass cloth and resin. The straps are attached to the frame inside the JP, and not the backplate.


fpoato, thanks. You can't beat the price on the Glade air fresheners, and they have the perfect shape as well.


Robert

Here's my Jet Pack completed (at last!) It's painted and weathered like in the MoM pics from the Ref. CD. Sorry for the camera angles, but the JP was in the floor just to show the colors and weathering, which sorry that I overdone the white part, but I was relying on a pic from the Lucas Archives (the old-rusty, messed-up, dark i-can't-determine-the-colors pic. Besides, my printer was messed up at the time of airbrushing (a cheap one I had to buy at the last minute.."testors brand")














What do you think about it? I hope you like my foot as well


Robert

Robert,

Excellent work!!!!!

Love the weathering

Jedi-Bob wrote:
Robert,

Excellent work!!!!!

Love the weathering

Thanks, Bob...and even though I haven't finish with the weathering yet (small scratches, specially in the rocket assembly area). I'll post the other pics of the tank tops today.

Robert

Since being ripped off on a jet pack on ebay I have been asking around the boards for jet pack kits.
I have been offered this by one of the members but I need 4 others who are interested in doing this:

"If there were a group of 5 I could do them for 175 w/ rocket or 145 w/o".

Anyone interested in a kit at this price? This price is for either classic or arena style.

1. Bobafett669 (Regular)
2. Maniacman7 (Arena)
3. Buddhafett (Arena)
4. TK 1776 (Regular)
5. Fett2be (arena)
6. Pedatormv (Rocket only)
7. ?

I am not making these just trying to organize a group for the member who offered these to me/us. He is very well respected on the boards and most people know his work.

Couple of Questions...

What are the made of Fiberglass or Sytrene/Resin?

Do you have pics from the maker?


Loranar

YEAH BUDDY,

put me down for an arena version.
TY TY TY

Lance
TR2640

put me down for one, based on the question in the PM I sent you.

EDIT: changed my mind after hearing who the maker is

is the maker the one on ebay selling both arena and standars jet packs??

Boba jet pack?
Can ya hook a bruva up wit' some pics?

Here is a photo:

Loranar_Fett wrote:
Couple of Questions...

What are the made of Fiberglass or Sytrene/Resin?

Do you have pics from the maker?


Loranar

JETPACK: Fiberglass, resin. SUPER LIGHTWEIGHT due to a special matrix of expanding foam over a hand-laminated fiberglass and resin outer skin.

If that's the same kind of jet pack kit I got, and I think it is, it won't be lightweight once it's together.

I bellieve I have heard in the past that GA actually sells recasts of an old MB pack. I am not positive that this is true, but it may be something to look into before you buy.

ok not to be too paranoid BUT who is the seller of this jet pack.
I need to know before I drop my funds since theres a guy who did put THIS particular pic on ebay and lives in Ohio and I will not deal with him since his stuff is not what is pictured bUT true recast garbage. I want an adress where my funds will end up otherwise count me out.
this info ca nbe pm'ed to me.

TY
Lance
TR2640

maniacman7 wrote:
ok not to be too paranoid BUT who is the seller of this jet pack.
I need to know before I drop my funds since theres a guy who did put THIS particular pic on ebay and lives in Ohio and I will not deal with him since his stuff is not what is pictured bUT true recast garbage. I want an adress where my funds will end up otherwise count me out.
this info ca nbe pm'ed to me.

TY
Lance
TR2640

It's not that guy in OH. I got ripped off by him already. Once we get 5 interested guys I will let you all know how the seller is. I have done my research on this one and he is know on this forum. Again, IT IS NOT THAT recaster from OH who was reported to the police for internet fraud.

And he did not use this photo because I just edited it this afternoon from the owner.

Hey, put me in for a regular Boba Fett jet pack. My jet pack now weighs 12 lbs as it's made of fiberglass, so these will feel like nothing on my back. I don't know why anyone would want an arena jet pack. The regular one is much cooler looking.

John Barrows, Jr.
TK-1776

Ok,
I think know who this belongs to,I recall a statement a while back on another forum that he has improved the quality of the jet pack.If this is true I'll stay onboard for the arena style.

TY
Lance
TR2640

Hi.I'm new but,need a jet pack for my costume.How do I get one?

westar34 wrote:
Hi.I'm new but,need a jet pack for my costume.How do I get one?

If you look at the entry on this thread we are listing interested parties for the jet pack at the price displayed. Once I get 5 people on the list I will forward the list to the maker and each person can pay him directly for the jet pack and shipping.

I'll think about it...YES!!!!!!!!!How much are they?

Quote:
I could do them for $175 w/ rocket or $145 w/o".

Hope that helps to clarify.

per jp????!!!!or all together??!!

per jet pack.

WES,
175.00 is the BEST your going to find on any board.
they usually sell in the range of 250.00 and up.

Lance
TR2640

Add me in for an arena style jet pack!

Jen

I have forwarded the list to the maker and he should be contacting us all soon.

Great, please let us know. I have a very heavy jet pack and would love to get one that is easier to carry for 8 hours.


John Barrows, Jr.
TK-1776

DanakinSkywalker wrote:
If that's the same kind of jet pack kit I got, and I think it is, it won't be lightweight once it's together.

He said he has redone this one within the last month and it is much lighter.

"The outer skin is a double layer of urethane and the inner core is expanding rigid urethane 20 lb. foam. This makes it very strong and very lightweight."

Here is an image he sent of a finished one:

Paypal sent. Thanks!

John Barrows, Jr.
TK/TD/BH-1776
501st New England Garrison

anyone get their packs yet?

I received mine yesterday and I'm itching to work on it, but I have to finish braiding what seems to be the millionth braid for my belt. Thank you for offering these!

Jen

This special price is over. The price on the next group will be $245.00 plus $25.00 shipping. The materials cost more than expected and he had to raise the price. If anyone is interested on doing another run at this price please let me know.

I will start an interest list for the next run:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

Got my pack today. Man, what a lot of work ahead. Everything needs to be trimed, cut, etc... The back of the pack that goes against the back is nothing more than a huge sheet of thin plastic that isn't cut to size and someone just doodled stuff all over it. I'm talking a good weeks worth of non stop sanding, etc.. just to be able to start doing anything with this. I guess I'm not used to building my own pack from scratch. The inside of the pack just looks like that foam type **** squirted all over it. Weird!

Oh well!

John Barrows, Jr.
TK-1776

TK-1776, when you get to the point of installing a harness for this, will you help me out? I've trimmed mine out, and now I'm a sanding fool! :p

Jen

Sure, I'll help. I'm not even sure exactly how I'm going to do this. It doesn't look anything like what I thought it would. My other jet pack is made of fiberglass and was designed in a totally different way. Somehow, you and I will figure this whole thing out.

John Barrows, Jr.
TK-1776
501st NEG

Got mine on Friday. Here is what I have so far after trimming off the extra and drilling out the top for the rocket. The maker was right that the pack is very light but the rockt is solid and does add some weight to it.

post em' here ladies and gents.....

Here is mine so far:

Still have some weathering to do though. ANyone else from this batch get theirs done?

Darthvader: I have to tell you again..You did a fantastic job with your GA

Here's my GA pack i buildt some time ago..It was a nightmare all the way to build and i believe it was one of GA's early kits. Almost none of the parts matched and the rocket was skewed and uneven. I threw away all the resin details and replaced them with russrep's excellent machined parts. Even though it was hard and frustrating i was pretty happy with the result anyway. The only good thing about this kit was the stickers.

Buildt and primered:



Painted:


Test fit on the costume:


-Mikael

Outstanding work, guys.

These packs should take you no more than about 20 minutes of trimming.
I can take one of these kits and have all the parts trimmed, puttied, sanded, primered and ready for assembly in about 2 hours.

to the guy who wrote:

Got my pack today. Man, what a lot of work ahead. Everything needs to be trimed, cut, etc... The back of the pack that goes against the back is nothing more than a huge sheet of thin plastic that isn't cut to size and someone just doodled stuff all over it. I'm talking a good weeks worth of non stop sanding, etc.. just to be able to start doing anything with this....

If you have a belt sander and a dremel with a cutoff wheel you'll it shouldn't take you more than about 10 minutes to sand most of the excess away, and then another 30 minutes of dremel work to fine-tune and an hollow out the rocket area.
This is a "KIT". Kits don't come trimmed and sanded. What you get is the raw parts i.e.
With the motivation the trimming and assembly takes about 3 hours. THe enclosure another hour or so, and then you can take as much time as you'd like with the paintjob.

Here's my samples of the current kit buildup. I took a raw kit on thursday, and had it finished just like this by monday. Just get a dremel and belt sander and set to it.




impervium@aol.com

Here is my progress:

http://tdh.prop-planet.com/viewtopic...=11315&forum=6

I was the one who organized the group purchase that some people took advantage of. The PVC thing might work but it is so much unnecessary work. I just used a square dowel and used bondo to attach it inside the jet pack frame and screwed the harness attachments to it.

For the guys that used the airwick cones as thrusters, How do you keep them attached to the resin balls? I have already broken them off 4 times and I have only only the suit once. I used the superglue gell.

I had to get my decals from another member on the boards as they did not come with them.