Necronaut
Hunter
Armour's almost done cooking!
I gloss-coated the armour in preparation for some oil-paint weathering. I shot a couple coats of Future acrylic floor polish through my single-action Badger that has the big glass reservoir. The acrylic gloss coat is smooth so the oil paint will spread smoothly, and it provides a non-soluble barrier between the turpentine I'll be using with the oil paint and the green enamel paint underneath.
I dispensed some oil paints in various colors onto a piece of cardboard. I left it to sit overnight.
By the morning, the linseed oil in the oil paint had seeped out. This will allow the oil paint to cure much faster. Oil paint can take weeks or months to cure, so this really helps speed it up. I have a small stiff bristle brush for applying the oil paint to the armour, a wider brush to spread the paint out on the armor, and a tub of turpenoid oil paint thinner to clean the brushes.
I dot the armour randomly using a variety of colors. I use brighter colors for the lighter toned armour pieces (right chest, abdomen, codpiece, and kidney plate) and tend to use darker colors for the darker toned plates (left chest, collar, and backplate).
Using the wider brush, I load it with a little turpenoid thinner, then spread the oil paint dots around, tending towards a downward stroke to simulate rain marks and dripping stains on the armour. The terpenoid thinners dissolve the oil paint. Most of the oil paint will end up on your brush. You want to take off most of the color.
The variety of colors adds some different tones to break up and add interest to the wide swaths of green paint. The stroke of the paint resembles rain marks and oxidation of the paint. Combined with the airbrush acrylic weathering I had applied over the green, it creates lots of visual interest and realism to the armour paint.
Here's the armour after only a half hour of drying. I'll let the paint set up for a few days before I do a couple final protective coats of Testors DullCote. As well, I might use a terpenoid Q-Tip to clean off some bits of the paint chipping to bring it out from the weathering on top of it.
Comments are welcome! Suggestions too, everyone. Cheers!
I gloss-coated the armour in preparation for some oil-paint weathering. I shot a couple coats of Future acrylic floor polish through my single-action Badger that has the big glass reservoir. The acrylic gloss coat is smooth so the oil paint will spread smoothly, and it provides a non-soluble barrier between the turpentine I'll be using with the oil paint and the green enamel paint underneath.
I dispensed some oil paints in various colors onto a piece of cardboard. I left it to sit overnight.
By the morning, the linseed oil in the oil paint had seeped out. This will allow the oil paint to cure much faster. Oil paint can take weeks or months to cure, so this really helps speed it up. I have a small stiff bristle brush for applying the oil paint to the armour, a wider brush to spread the paint out on the armor, and a tub of turpenoid oil paint thinner to clean the brushes.
I dot the armour randomly using a variety of colors. I use brighter colors for the lighter toned armour pieces (right chest, abdomen, codpiece, and kidney plate) and tend to use darker colors for the darker toned plates (left chest, collar, and backplate).
Using the wider brush, I load it with a little turpenoid thinner, then spread the oil paint dots around, tending towards a downward stroke to simulate rain marks and dripping stains on the armour. The terpenoid thinners dissolve the oil paint. Most of the oil paint will end up on your brush. You want to take off most of the color.
The variety of colors adds some different tones to break up and add interest to the wide swaths of green paint. The stroke of the paint resembles rain marks and oxidation of the paint. Combined with the airbrush acrylic weathering I had applied over the green, it creates lots of visual interest and realism to the armour paint.
Here's the armour after only a half hour of drying. I'll let the paint set up for a few days before I do a couple final protective coats of Testors DullCote. As well, I might use a terpenoid Q-Tip to clean off some bits of the paint chipping to bring it out from the weathering on top of it.
Comments are welcome! Suggestions too, everyone. Cheers!
