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  1. The5thHorseman's Avatar
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    Apr 17, 2015, 9:51 AM - EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Final update: Painting+Assembling* #1

    Hi TDH,

    Alright... We're all quite psyched about the new SW7 trailer, but Boba Fett wasn't in it so "Move along, move along..." :-).

    My EE-3 being finally finished i thought why not making a build thread for it as i haven't seen even one around. Here's a pic of all the different parts from my Sidewinder kit. The kit's accuracy is pretty amazing and the casting quality is really excellent: very few air bubbles, some cold cast parts, internal reinforcement for the fragile parts, etc...
    Honestly the kit could have been put together very quickly and with almost no extra work, but as i like to make things to last i had few ideas to bring it on a bit further.



    1) First i drilled the holes for the sling's rings which are around 8mm wide. My widest drill bit was 3,5mm so i had to enlarge the holes by making circles with my Dremel until the holes diameter were large enough.


    Honestly I have regrets about this part. With some more work i could have replicate the Webley's locking way using a swivel that allows the ring to rotate on itself yet be secured. But at the time i hadn't figured out how it was working.


    2) A little unexpected:
    1. While sliding the rear barrel mount up to where i wanted it to sit around the barrel the resin screw, too short, broke off.
    2. I drilled 3 holes inside the screw to insert pieces of paperclip in order to maintain the gap needed for the barrel mount and also to serve as armature for the future sculpture.
    3. 4. The paperclips pieces glued.


    1. Beginning of the sculpture to recreate the missing part of the screw.
    2. 3. 4. The screw resculpted and lengthened thanks to the paperclip pins.



    3) In ESB, the blaster's hammer is never seen cocked so Sidewinder altered this part to allow it to be glued. However as i wanted to make it moveable i had to recreate the missing parts.
    1. 2. 3. Using paperclip i made an armature to reinforce the epoxy or the adds would break very easily.
    4. Ready for sculpt.


    1. First pass of epoxy. No particular precision here, it was just a base for the following.
    2. 3. The hammer after the second pass of milliput and final adjustements using sandpaper.


    After some research on the net, i found a reference pic detailing the hammer's lower section. The rounded section appearing to be two different parts maintained by a pin.
    1. 3. Using this picture, i incorporated the lateral grooves and the middle pin just for my mind's sake (because let's face, this is quite useless!).


    With the adds i sculpted the hammer couldn't fit in its slot anymore. To solve this i grinded down the resin with my dremel doing my best to recreate what a real Webley looks like.
    1. The slot as it was...
    2. 3. ... once reworked.


    Same thing with the lower section. To allow the hammer to be cocked some grinding has been needed.
    1. Before the grinding. The areas hatched in red being where i had to grind in a slanted shape.
    2. Once grinded (i went through the wall while doing it but fortunately it was going to be hidden under the grip).
    3. The hammer uncocked: tipped forward and with the firing tip in its slot.
    4. The hammer cocked: tipped backward and the firing tip visible.


    To secure the hammer in place, instead of using the original Webley screw position which was too low for me and would have made me remove too much resin to my taste (i didnt want to jeopardize the integrity of this part where a lot of weight rests), so i decided to use a homemade pin.
    1. I drilled a hole from side to side.
    2a. 2b. 2c. I cut a pin wide and long enough (paperclip once again).
    3. Drilled a matching hole in the hammer.
    4a. 4b. Once assembled. No glue needed.






    That's it for now, i still need to translate all i have written about this build from French to English. And strangely it sometimes takes me more time than writing natively in english...

    -T5H.
    Last edited by The5thHorseman; 4 Weeks Ago at 5:36 PM.
  2. mhlayne's Avatar
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    Apr 17, 2015, 10:21 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. #2

    Wow!! Will be following this. Excellent work.
  3. intwenothor's Avatar
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    Apr 17, 2015, 10:56 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. #3

    Yeah this is great. For me this is the best kit out there but your alterations are looking stellar.
  4. intwenothor's Avatar
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    Apr 17, 2015, 11:03 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. #4

    Yeah this is great. For me this is the best kit out there but your alterations are looking stellar.
  5. The5thHorseman's Avatar
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    Apr 17, 2015, 11:18 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. #5

    Thanks guy!
    @mhlayne. I'll try do go as fast as i can so you can get some insights about how i did with my blaster and work your way with your own.
  6. Sidewinder's Avatar
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    Apr 17, 2015, 12:50 PM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. #6

    Warming the 'strap' of the rear barrel mount allows it to stretch a little to avoid breaking.

    I'f i'd known I coulda sent you untrimmed hammer/trigger

    Good work thus far.

    SAS
  7. The5thHorseman's Avatar
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    Apr 17, 2015, 1:50 PM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. #7

    Very useful informations here SAS. Thanks for sharing!

    And don't worry, resculpting the hammer myself was fun and it gave the impression of being a prop maker :-P
  8. The5thHorseman's Avatar
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    Apr 18, 2015, 4:48 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit *Update Grip/Handle* #8

    Some more stuff translated. Not the most interesting though...

    4) As i wanted to be able to disassemble and assemble most of the blaster once finished, i didn't choose to glue the handle grip.
    1. Instead i added epoxy on the grip inner face to give some more material to the central screw that will secure it.
    2. The epoxy add once sanded to the right height.
    3. On the handle i noticed a small dimple and a matching channel on the D-bracket so i assumed there must be some kind of a pin here that helps to align the two parts together.
    4. So i drilled the dimple all the way through...


    1. ... Then i fitted the handle grip with tape.
    2. With my Dremel i reported the hole location drilled on the previous step on the inner face of the grip.
    3. Same thing with the central screw. However, here i used the head of the screw to mark the grip instead of my Dremel.
    4. The two holes reported on the grip.


    1. After that i cut a pin designed to align the grip on one side and the D-bracket on the other.
    2a. 2b. The pin glued.
    3. The alignment between the channel and the pin when you slide the two parts together.
    4. Slided together.


    1. I added a second pin at the bottom of the grip to secure it more sefely and to avoid it to pivot on itself while i tighten the central screw.
    2. The two pins maintaining the grip.
    3. 4. The grip pinned. The central screw goes all the way through the D-bracket, the handle, and up to the grip, preventing it to fall.


    After a quick mock-up of the D-bracket with the handle/barrel and the stock, i discovered that the whole was too heavy and was often disconnecting the D-bracket from the handle despite the central screw and the locking channel at the bottom.
    1. To solve this i added two screws going from the inside of the handle to the D-bracket. They aren't going all the way through so once the blaster is fully assembled they aren't visible.
    2. Here again to give more material to the screws i added epoxy reinforcements inside the handle.
    3. 4. The screws tightened and keeping the two parts together safely.


    Hopefully I should have another update by the evening!

    - T5H
  9. The5thHorseman's Avatar
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    Apr 18, 2015, 12:40 PM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. #9

    Continuing this build.

    5)
    My main goal with this blaster was to be able to break it open like a real Webley.

    1. On this pic you can see the little disc around which the spring coils around on top of the "pistol section(?)". However i did end up grinding it instead.
    2. The disk once grinded.
    3. And then replaced by a working spring. Eventually i would have loved to get a stronger spring but in the end this one is doing the job well.
    4. The matching hole for the spring in the Barrel Latch that fits over the "pistol section".


    Despite the sanding i couldn't get the two parts to slide together smoothly and they kept jamming the spring making it useless. In fact it was jamming because i hadn't sanded the underneath of the slides.
    1. To sand the underneath, as i didn't have any files at the moment, i had to improvised something. I installed a long enough piece of metal on my hand-drill...
    2. ... then i rolled pieces of sandpaper around the tip which allowed me to give a good sanding to the underneath of the slides.
    3. The two parts fitted together with the spring.


    1. Also be sure to give a good sanding into those two depressions on the barrel or they will block the Barrel Latch too.


    6) To secure the Barrel Latch to the "pistol section" and prevent it from falling off i just reproduced the Webley's locking mechanism.
    1. The head of the "locking screw" can be find on the side of the Barrel Latch...
    2.
    ... which normally goes through the piece and exit on the inner face.
    3. 4. The screw grinded. The military screws being different from what you can find commercially the drill diameter i used is slightly smaller than what should be.


    1. 2. The screw in place.
    3. The matching notch on the "pistol section" which is normally hollow but has been filled in for casting purpose. The screw is supposed to insert itself in this notch to lock on the barrel latch.
    4. The notch grinded allowing the screw to slide up and down but not over a certain range.



    Last edited by The5thHorseman; Apr 18, 2015 at 1:23 PM. Reason: Better understanding of how a real Webely works
  10. Sidewinder's Avatar
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    Apr 18, 2015, 12:57 PM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: Barrel Latch* #10

    FYI on the real Webley the little disc on top of the frame is what the spring fits over to locate it and there is only a hole in the breech block for the spring.

    A little silicon grease after painting on the slot and runner will help it slide more easily.

    SAS
  11. mhlayne's Avatar
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    Apr 18, 2015, 1:17 PM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: Barrel Latch* #11

    That is awesome.
  12. The5thHorseman's Avatar
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    Apr 18, 2015, 1:21 PM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: Barrel Latch* #12

    Quote Sidewinder said: View Post
    FYI on the real Webley the little disc on top of the frame is what the spring fits over to locate it and there is only a hole in the breech block for the spring.
    Dang... The Webley MK1 n1 is really such simple gun. I assumed it would be a little bit more complex thus the hole i drilled. Thanks for the information, i will edit my post in consequence.
    Last edited by The5thHorseman; Apr 18, 2015 at 1:26 PM.
  13. The5thHorseman's Avatar
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    Apr 19, 2015, 8:50 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: Barrel Latch* #13

    Major mod covered in this update!

    7) With the fact of being able to break open the blaster, i also wanted to have the possibility to fit inside the barrel a false airsoft grenade. In order to do that i had quite some work to do to recreate the breech details as there was none on the cast.
    1. Unfortunately i didn't thought about taking a picture before i start working on it but i found this one from SAS that pretty much shows what it looked like.
    2. 3. The breech after working it with various Dremel bits. The main purpose being to recreate the groove where the munition fits into.
    4. 5. After some touch-ups with epoxy.


    8) At this point the blaster opening was still impossible because of a part located on the underneath of the barrel.
    1. The section framed in red in this picture is a moving part on a real Webley that is pushed forward when the gun is opened. However on a resin cast, this part being still it prevents the blaster opening.
    2. The same section after some grinding.
    3. 4. The extremity in shape of a hook on the "psitol section" is the part that was conflicting with the now grinded section. On a Webley this is the part that pushes the entiere mobile section forward when you open the gun.


    9) To make the hinge articulation i've looked on the web for an original Webley screw and nut but unfortunately i couldn't find anything that shipped to France...
    1. So i had to improvise and decided to use a classic screw secured in a clinch nut on the other side. now that i look back at it, it might be a little too over-engineered.
    2. 3. As my clinch nut was too long i had to report its position on the hinge section and then drill a hole in the resin so it can fit inside.
    4. The whole setup in place.






    Thanks for looking!

    - T5H
  14. The5thHorseman's Avatar
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    Apr 19, 2015, 2:40 PM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: Hinge articulation* #14

    10) The classic spring trigger mod.
    1. 2. 3. To allow the trigger to move back and forth i had to grind down some of the resin inside the trigger housing.
    4. Then i drilled the hole for the screw in the trigger using the original Webley's location.


    1. The back of the trigger before.
    2. Before drilling i scavenged a spring from a ballpen...
    3. 4. ... and once i knew the spring's diameter, i drilled a hole in the back of the trigger large enough to house the spring.


    To secure the trigger, i obviously decided to use the Webley's screw location.
    1. The resin screw removed.
    2. 3. I haven't drilled all the way through for this one as the thread of the screw i'm using isn't as wide as the Webley's screw. So to keep the outside accurate i kept the cast of the resin screw on this side.
    4. The resin screw replaced.


    The military screw sizing doesn't perfectly match the different screw sizes we can buy, the M3's head being to large and the M2.5's one being too small...
    1. So i took a M3 and grinded down its head until it has the right diameter. On this picture the grinded screw is on the left and the untouched one is on the right.
    2. M3 screw. Too large head.
    3. M3 screw with the grinded down head and able to fit in its emplacement.
    4. The screw in place.


    1. Then i drilled the second hole that was going to house the other end of the spring inside the "pistol section".
    2. The trigger installed with the spring between it and the "pistol section".
    3. The transversal screw securing the trigger in position.
    4. The trigger guard in place. I realize i haven't taken any pictures of that because SAS basically did all the work, but it's just using the same screw locations an original Webley uses. One from the inside, one from the outside: (https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7634/...042e5ca6_b.jpg).



  15. The5thHorseman's Avatar
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    Apr 20, 2015, 7:04 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: Spring trigger* #15

    Alright, let's keep on going.

    11)
    Now that the Webley was assembled it was time to intall all the different greeblies to transform it into a proper EE-3.

    1. First i positionned the "Disk greeblie" on the left side of the blaster per reference.
    3. 4. As this one wasn't going to be bothering, i decided to simply glue it with a central pin to reinforce it.


    1. The biggest hole is placed so it leaves access to the hinge screw for future disassembling.
    2a. 2b. For the second "disk greeblie", as the biggest hole is positionned differently, i needed to secure it without any glue if i wanted to be able to remove it to access the hinge articulation. To do so, i used a headless screw.
    3. The two "disk greeblies" in place.


    The connecting rods will simply be glued on once painted so no pictures about them.

    12) The stock greeblies.
    1. First i disposed the greeblies per reference pictures and outlined their positioning with a marker.
    2. I then reinforced all the greeblies with two pins to avoid them from falling off too easily during a troop. For small and precise holes like that i always use my old hand-drill as i have much more control with it.
    3. Final positioning.
    If you're like me ( a bit of a loon :-P) you will have noticed that if the lateral greeblies are perfect, the central greeblies are quite far from the thing.


    1. 2. 3. Same process with the greeblies on the inner face of the stock.


    13) About the central stock greeblies.
    1. As i was saying above, Sidewinder's mold for them is far from the thing, therefore...
    2. ... i entirely grinded the inside of the greeblies with a Dremel and sandpaper.
    3. Then i lined the base with a sheet of paper cut to dimensions.
    4. And filled the base with epoxy. The sheet of paper prevents the milliput to adhere to the base and enables it to be removed once dry.


    1. Once dry i unmolded the epoxy "cake" thanks to the paper folds on the sides.
    2. Using the hollowed square frame i made a cardboard as per reference.
    3. After that i reported the cardboard onto the epoxy "cake".
    4. And then i extracted one by one the differents shapes from the epoxy with my dremel, and fine tuned them with my x-acto, sandpaper, and hand-drill. Once satisfied by their shape and height, i glued them inside the base.




    The squared frame is still a bit too small for me to be completely happy with them but it was fun to do. Actually not at all! What a tedious work...

    And of course as there is two greeblies, i had to do the whole thing twice...



    -T5H.
  16. Matty Matt's Avatar
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    Apr 20, 2015, 7:40 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: Spring trigger* #16

    This thread is crazy. And I mean that in the best possible way. Great work.
  17. Apr 20, 2015, 7:55 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: Spring trigger* #17

    This is THE best thread I've ever laid eyes on I'm definitely going to start on this stuff today! I NEED mine to loo like this!!! haha Also, can I ask what you're using for the sculpt on the hammer and the other parts you did? Is it Bondo or is it a clay? Or something else? I need to get that too lol
  18. The5thHorseman's Avatar
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    Apr 20, 2015, 9:02 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: Spring trigger* #18

    Quote BobasDent1138 said: View Post
    This is THE best thread I've ever laid eyes on I'm definitely going to start on this stuff today! I NEED mine to loo like this!!! haha Also, can I ask what you're using for the sculpt on the hammer and the other parts you did? Is it Bondo or is it a clay? Or something else? I need to get that too lol
    In fact this is an awful stuff i wouldn't recommand anyone! But that's what i had at hand at the time :-P. The stuff is Milliput Terracotta which is designed to repair pottery. However there are several different types of Milliputs and even if i have never used it before i would rather recommand the Milliput Super fine White.
    But for you US guys, Bondo will certainly do just work just as fine. We just don't have access to this stuff here in the EU.
  19. Apr 20, 2015, 12:57 PM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: First Greeblies* #19

    Great! Thanks! I'm probably going to find a putty like yours because i hate bondo xD Its got a really bad smell and it's kind of tough for me to work with, But thanks! And keep up the incredible work!
  20. BobaFiend's Avatar
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    Apr 20, 2015, 1:15 PM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: First Greeblies* #20

    You're doing a great job here Germain, if I ever make another Webley I'll be following this thread. I love your functional mods to the kit!
  21. The5thHorseman's Avatar
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    Apr 20, 2015, 4:31 PM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: First Greeblies* #21

    Quote BobaFiend said: View Post
    You're doing a great job here Germain, if I ever make another Webley I'll be following this thread. I love your functional mods to the kit!
    Thank you for the kind words Austin.

    Now the following of the build.
    14) The Molex Connectors. As you can see, they aren't perfectly symetrical in shape.
    1. One of the lateral face has an offset...
    2. ... while the other is smooth.
    3. One of the upper face is smooth...
    4. ... while the other has a molded line on it.


    Given the fact the Molex connectors aren't symmetrical, it means they have a correct way around. Hence i had to determine the one used for each of the four Molex connectors on the original blaster.
    1. The Front/Left Molex is clearly oriented so the molded line is facing upwards.
    2. The Front/Right is oriented so the smooth lateral face is facing outwards.
    3. On this picture we can see (barely) that the Rear/Right Molex is oriented so the molded line is facing upwards. To confirm that we can also see that the smooth lateral face is facing outwards.
    4. The Rear/Left Molex was the hardest to determine. However on this picture the lighting source is directed straight on the Molex yet we cannot see any molded line at its top although on the pic 1. (which is cropped from the same picture) the molded line is clearly underlined by this same lightning. Therefore i concluded this Molex should have its molded line facing downwards.


    Once the way of each molex determined, i just had to install them.
    1. Each Molex has two pins to secure it to the barrel mount for safety. Even if we can see on some reference pictures that the original blaster lost one of them at some point so i guess its accurate :-P.
    2. The two front Molex secured to their barrel mount.
    3. The two rear Molex secured to the rear barrel mount.
    4. Mounted on the barrel, and plug.



    15) The Barrel Mounts. To secure the Barrel mounts and their "scope foot" i decided to use screws for both of them rather than glue, still in the idea to be able to disassemble the blaster if needed.
    1a. 1b. One of the two "scope feet" before.
    2a. I drilled two holes for pins on the bottom face to prevent the "scope foot" from pivoting on itself around the axis of the central screw.
    2b. The screw i'm using is countersunk, so i countersunk the "scope foot" top face so it can fit inside.
    3. The matching holes for the pins and screw in the barrel mount.
    4. The two pins preventing the "scope foot" to pivot on itself.


    1. Then i aligned the rear barrel mount on the barrel, making sure its top was at the horizontal. Then i reported the postion of the barrel mount's central hole on the barrel. This way i'm sure everything's aligned.
    2. The hole once drilled.
    3. 4. The rear barrel mount with its "scope foot" secured on the barrel. I used a Viking nut on the inside of the barrel which was quite difficult to put in place by the way.


    1. 2. I reapeated the same process with the front barrel mount that goes on the barrel plug.
    3. The two barrel mounts secured.
    4. With the molex and the chrome tube. The barrel plug for the front barrel mount and chrome tube isn't glued, the friction being by far enough to lock it on.



    That's it for now.
    The next update will mostly be about the scope and it will wrap up for the build in itself!

    - T5H
  22. 4 Weeks Ago - Apr 21, 2015, 8:23 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: Molex & Barrel Mounts* #22

    Absolutely stunning! What are you using as pins?
  23. The5thHorseman's Avatar
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    4 Weeks Ago - Apr 21, 2015, 9:17 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: Molex & Barrel Mounts* #23

    Quote BobasDent1138 said: View Post
    Absolutely stunning! What are you using as pins?
    For the smallest pins, i use pieces of paperclip, and when i need bigger ones i cut the tip of different size of pop-rivets.

    Alright, last update before the painting.

    16) The scope.
    1. 2. 3. 4. I started by cleaning the scope rings with my dremel.


    1. Then i positionned the adjusting block onto the aluminium tube per reference and marked it.
    2. Here again, i used two pins to secure it safely.
    3. Final aspect. The two ends of the scope are glued with the aluminium tube.


    17) The scope is secured on the "scope feet" with two scope rings. However, because of the resin screws which make the scope rings inflexible they were non-functionnal. Fortunately the screws are very close to classic and easy to find 4M screws and thus easy to replace.
    1. 2. So i grinded down the resin screws and drilled holes to install real screws. Needless to say that when handling the rings some caution is required as they can snap easily. But once fitted around the aluminium tube they remain quite strong.
    3. 4. Real screws in place.


    1. When the screws are tightened the scope ring can't fit over the "scope foot" because it's too narrow.
    2. To install it i can loosen the real screws, and then spread the ring's legs (impossible with the resin screws).
    3. 4. Once both rings were fitted over the "scope feet" i secured the scope by tightening the screws. This makes the scope removable which is nice.



    18) And finally. After several comparisons with reference pictures i came to the conclusion that the chrome tube was a little too long to my taste.
    1. So i made a mark from the bottom of the tube at 1.5cm.
    2. With a hacksaw and some elbow grease i shortened it down.
    3. 4. Comparison. The chrome tube is glued to the barrel plug.


    (I would also have loved to modify the patern of the vent holes as it appears to be wrong to me.) Forget that.

    Thanks for looking!
    - T5H
    Last edited by The5thHorseman; 4 Weeks Ago at 2:06 PM.
  24. Sidewinder's Avatar
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    4 Weeks Ago - Apr 21, 2015, 10:58 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: Scope* #24

    You could have simply pushed the resin plug further down inside the barrel rather than cutting the tube. Also the chrome tube hole pattern is correct you need to mount it with the line of round holes at 3 o clock as you look down the barrel.

    SAS
  25. The5thHorseman's Avatar
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    4 Weeks Ago - Apr 21, 2015, 11:53 AM - Re: EE-3 Carbine build as ESB using Sidewinder's kit. *Update: Scope* #25

    Quote Sidewinder said: View Post
    You could have simply pushed the resin plug further down inside the barrel rather than cutting the tube. Also the chrome tube hole pattern is correct you need to mount it with the line of round holes at 3 o clock as you look down the barrel.

    SAS
    About the hole pattern, what makes me believe it is wrong is this picture:


    On this one i can see that the group of 3 holes disposed together should be facing the line of 5 holes whereas on your tubes they are side by side.
    What do you think about it?

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