General Chest light install (Fettronics)

dellorama

New Hunter
I just got my Fettronics chest light in the mail today, and could not be more lost on what to do now. I recently posted about the cut outs on my chest armor being incorrect, so I am also in the process of correcting that. But my question is how to install this light, such as 1) Do the light go inside the holes in the armor, or behind it? 2) I've read that I need some sort of plastic screen in front of the lights, where do I get this cover? Can I buy it or do I have to fabricate one? 3)If I do have to fabricate one, what do I use to make it out of? 4) Does the plastic cover go inside the holes, or in front of it?...As you can see, I'm so lost with this install I don't even know where the start line is anymore. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

20160530_110929.jpg
 
To answer your question - "Left breast plate slots are backed by a translucent screen." 501st guidelines (ESB 501st Legion: Vader's Fist) are a good place to go for info.

Basically, you need to glue/epoxy a piece of plastic on the back side the slots/armor. A square or rectangle piece that covers the slots.

Use your imagination on where you might procure something like this. Repurposing plastic is an option. Hitting a hardware or hobby store could prob get you what you need too.

Moving on, you would then attach your chest electronics behind the plastic. This thread should help there Mounting the chest display.

Hope this helps.


I just got my Fettronics chest light in the mail today, and could not be more lost on what to do now. I recently posted about the cut outs on my chest armor being incorrect, so I am also in the process of correcting that. But my question is how to install this light, such as 1) Do the light go inside the holes in the armor, or behind it? 2) I've read that I need some sort of plastic screen in front of the lights, where do I get this cover? Can I buy it or do I have to fabricate one? 3)If I do have to fabricate one, what do I use to make it out of? 4) Does the plastic cover go inside the holes, or in front of it?...As you can see, I'm so lost with this install I don't even know where the start line is anymore. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
To answer your question - "Left breast plate slots are backed by a translucent screen." 501st guidelines (ESB 501st Legion: Vader's Fist) are a good place to go for info.

Basically, you need to glue/epoxy a piece of plastic on the back side the slots/armor. A square or rectangle piece that covers the slots.

Use your imagination on where you might procure something like this. Repurposing plastic is an option. Hitting a hardware or hobby store could prob get you what you need too.

Moving on, you would then attach your chest electronics behind the plastic. This thread should help there Mounting the chest display.

Hope this helps.

Thank you so much for the information!
 
I had read somewhere here the plastic piece was supposed to be red so I used a decoder sheet from a vintage Transformer. I taped that and the Fettronics display to the back of the armor. Not the most fancy install but it works just fine.
 
I just got my Fettronics chest light in the mail today, and could not be more lost on what to do now. I recently posted about the cut outs on my chest armor being incorrect, so I am also in the process of correcting that. But my question is how to install this light, such as 1) Do the light go inside the holes in the armor, or behind it? 2) I've read that I need some sort of plastic screen in front of the lights, where do I get this cover? Can I buy it or do I have to fabricate one? 3)If I do have to fabricate one, what do I use to make it out of? 4) Does the plastic cover go inside the holes, or in front of it?...As you can see, I'm so lost with this install I don't even know where the start line is anymore. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

You're doing ESB, right? I'm not sure the color of the cover is the same -- it's smoke for ROTJ, and this is what I used:

Amazon.com: Lamin-x 148S Smoke 4" x 8" Universal Film Cover Sheet: Automotive

stuck to a bit of spare clear plastic from a packing container. I used hot glue to secure the cover, then another dose to secure the light boards onto the cover (spaced by some nylon screws from the back of the armor). Here's a pic, you may like the rewiring I did for the power:

IMG_1507.jpg

The second battery is now wired to a second switch and used only as a backup for when the first is exhausted -- the board runs fine on the one 3v lithium cell. Thanks again crumdum for the comment!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You're doing ESB, right? I'm not sure the color of the cover is the same -- it's smoke for ROTJ, and this is what I used:

Amazon.com: Lamin-x 148S Smoke 4" x 8" Universal Film Cover Sheet: Automotive

stuck to a bit of spare clear plastic from a packing container. I used hot glue to secure the cover, then another dose to secure the light boards onto the cover (spaced by some nylon screws from the back of the armor). Here's a pic, you may like the rewiring I did for the power:

View attachment 99956
I hope you put in a resistor because the above is VERY bad for the display. The chipset per Jon is rated at 5.5v and you have it currently at 7.2v.

Sent from my SM-G900V
 
duct tape works just as good for chest lights and is easily removed....epoxy is semi permanent and isn't instantly where you want it. Also....with the electronics....if you epoxy and have to repair the board for any reason...that's going to be more trouble....
 
I hope you put in a resistor because the above is VERY bad for the display. The chipset per Jon is rated at 5.5v and you have it currently at 7.2v.

Sent from my SM-G900V

Hey Crumdum -- thanks so much for your interest and comments!! I'm no electronics expert by any measure, so I'm going to carefully look into your warning and will possibly make some adjustment.
 
I used a binder divider for the thin sheet of plastic. Colour doesn't matter, but I used clear. I electrical/duct tape the circuit board to the back of the armour plate.
 
This thread is more than 7 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top