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  1. Member Since
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 24, 2014, 2:44 AM - Casting an ee3 #1

    Hey guys question I've pretty much resigned myself that my pepakura ee3 was not going to be the finish model but rather a master piece. I'm planning the mold and have run into a mental road block on how to mold the area of the pistol grip and the trigger guard. My experience is with helmet molds that are one piece. And due to a lack of non sulfur clay in my area and shipping costs out the yingyang I'd like to try to stay away from the 2 piece mold using clay and a pour box. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Also any step by step pictures on ones you've done would be awesome too


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  2. MLS's Avatar
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 24, 2014, 8:14 AM - Re: Casting an ee3 #2

    Unless you use a super soft silicone i have no idea how you would make a 1 piece mold. All of my larger molds are 2 piece (at least). Ive only been molding and casting for a few years now, but i feel confident in saying there's really no other way than a 2 piece mold for that part. I think, like the rest of us, youre going to have to bite the bullet and spend the money to do it right. I dont know if youve priced silicone, but if you screw up a mold, youre going to be out the same amount- or likely more in worthless wasted silicone. Do yourself a favor and make a 2 piece- that is my advice.
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 24, 2014, 1:56 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #3

    Can you do a 2 part without clay?


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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 24, 2014, 2:05 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #4

    I mean don't get me wrong I understand the basic process and everything and I have the ability. It's just a severe difficulty factor ( I live in a part of Alaska thats an island from a transportation point of view)


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  5. redkraytdragon's Avatar
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 24, 2014, 2:41 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #5

    Quote bpwmd said: View Post
    Can you do a 2 part without clay?


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    In short - No

    It sounds to me from your questions that you don't have any experience molding a 2 part at all. I would not recommend attempting a mold of this advanced nature if you have limited or no experience. Not trying to knock you down or anything, but rather trying to save you some time, frustration and headaches...as well as potential wasted money.

    Check out these guys for some awesome molding tutorials - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3HvPuvvuDQ

    Keep in mind, the one in that video is a very basic and beginner level 2 part mold, but it gives you a solid foundation for the concept. Good luck!
  6. MLS's Avatar
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 25, 2014, 12:10 AM - Re: Casting an ee3 #6

    Quote bpwmd said: View Post
    Can you do a 2 part without clay?


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    There's always a way, but as a rule RKD is right. I suppose if you build a barrier like you would around the mohawk of a helmet and used putty or some other soft claylike substance to block the silicone inside a box it could be done. You would have to build the 360 "mohawk" around your piece to the edges of the box and support it underneath from collapsing under the weight of the silicone. Then find a way for registration keys, air vents, etc. Way more trouble than it's worth IMO, but it could be done I suppose. However, if you or it fails, youre probably out the cost of the silicone, your time, and if youre doing pep, maybe the piece itself.
  7. redkraytdragon's Avatar
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 25, 2014, 4:22 AM - Re: Casting an ee3 #7

    Matt is right, I didn't think about putty or a similar medium...but the concept is still the same. It has to be something flexible enough (like clay or putty, etc) in order to make it conform to the master and then be removable after the first side of silicone cures.
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 25, 2014, 12:21 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #8

    Question. Conceivably. Could I make the mold box. Pour in a small amount of silicone and let it cure into a floor. Then pour in approximately enough to cover one half and just slowly set the gun in and continue as normal with a 2 piece? If the answer is no or just iffy could you guys point me to some well priced online stores that sell good preferably reusable sulfur free clay


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  9. MLS's Avatar
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 25, 2014, 2:04 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #9

    Conceivably, yes, but youd have to be sure the piece wont float in the silicone. It more than likely will, so youll have to anchor it. Then there's the question of the registration keys. You will have to cut them into the cured silicone- hopefully cleanly. Anytime you cut the silicone, you give it the starting point it needs to tear. I would be most concerned with the piece floating in the silicone.
  10. 4 Weeks Ago - Dec 25, 2014, 2:14 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #10

    A friend of mine, who was a beginner, did this type of thing with an old wrestling figure and it did work, albeit, the registration keys were difficult to do, but it did work. Also those old wrestling figures are solid rubber and heavy, so he didnt have the floating issue.

    That said, Will and Matt are both correct..and it would be a slight risk to attempt to cast this sort of piece like this, but if its this way or nothing, i guess its worth the shot. Just be prepared that you may possibly lose the master piece and/or some cash if it fails....good luck!
  11. redkraytdragon's Avatar
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 25, 2014, 2:57 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #11

    It'd be so much easier to just clay it up. And as Matt pointed out, the registration keys are going to be difficult to put into the cured silicone...not only that, cutting into cured silicone will make nasty little cut lines that the other side will flow into making it difficult to pull apart (think of it as tiny little undercuts). You want the surface to be as clean and smooth as possible. Clay or putty is really the easiest way.
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 25, 2014, 3:01 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #12

    Quote redkraytdragon said: View Post
    It'd be so much easier to just clay it up. And as Matt pointed out, the registration keys are going to be difficult to put into the cured silicone...not only that, cutting into cured silicone will make nasty little cut lines that the other side will flow into making it difficult to pull apart (think of it as tiny little undercuts). You want the surface to be as clean and smooth as possible. Clay or putty is really the easiest way.
    What about the inside of the barrel? Do I halve that too? Click image for larger version. 

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  13. redkraytdragon's Avatar
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 25, 2014, 3:04 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #13

    You have to plug that hole before making a mold (preferably with clay). That is what's known as an undercut. If you put silicone inside there, you'll never get the piece out without cutting it off.
    You really should watch a lot of videos on two part molding before attempting to mold this piece, it's a very advanced piece for a beginner.
  14. Member Since
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 25, 2014, 3:06 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #14

    I will I plan on it lol. When I did my helmet molds I watched one as I did it. If I plug that hole do I just have to drill it back out later?


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  15. redkraytdragon's Avatar
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 25, 2014, 3:08 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #15

    Well...one wouldn't normally drill out clay. But whatever floats your boat.
  16. MLS's Avatar
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 25, 2014, 4:13 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #16

    Quote redkraytdragon said: View Post
    Well...one wouldn't normally drill out clay. But whatever floats your boat.
    It will probably shatter when you try to get it out. Youtube " 2 piece rifle mold" or something like that. I think smooth on put it out. They take an old confederate rifle and make a mold of it. It will show you and tell you everything youll need to make the mold if youre casting a solid piece, and may help you see how difficult it is potentially going to be for you without clay.
  17. Member Since
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 25, 2014, 4:15 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #17

    Quote redkraytdragon said: View Post
    Well...one wouldn't normally drill out clay. But whatever floats your boat.
    No I mean after I cast the final in resin how do I get the hole in the barrel in the finish piece


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  18. MLS's Avatar
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    4 Weeks Ago - Dec 25, 2014, 5:10 PM - Re: Casting an ee3 #18

    Drill and a forstner bit.

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